of　smuggling　was　so　much　in　practice：　what　it　is　now；　is　not　to　my
  present　purpose。
  Near　this　town　lie　The　Seven　Burnhams；　as　they　are　called；　that　is
  to　say；　seven　small　towns；　all　called　by　the　same　name；　and　each
  employed　in　the　same　trade　of　carrying　corn　to　Holland；　and
  bringing　back；　…　etc。
  From　hence　we　turn　to　the　south…west　to　Castle　Rising；　an　old
  decayed　borough　town；　with　perhaps　not　ten　families　in　it；　which
  yet　（to　the　scandal　of　our　prescription　right）　sends　two　members　to
  the　British　Parliament；　being　as　many　as　the　City　of　Norwich　itself
  or　any　town　in　the　kingdom；　London　excepted；　can　do。
  On　our　left　we　see　Walsingham；　an　ancient　town；　famous　for　the　old
  ruins　of　a　monastery　of　note　there；　and　the　Shrine　of　our　Lady；　as
  noted　as　that　of　St。　Thomas…e…Becket　at　Canterbury；　and　for　little
  else。
  Near　this　place　are　the　seats　of　the　two　allied　families　of　the
  Lord　Viscount　Townsend　and　Robert　Walpole；　Esq。；　the　latter　at　this
  time　one　of　the　Lords　Commissioners　of　the　Treasury　and　Minister　of
  State；　and　the　former　one　of　the　principal　Secretaries　of　State　to
  King　George；　of　which　again。
  From　hence　we　went　to　Lynn；　another　rich　and　populous　thriving
  port…town。　　It　stands　on　more　ground　than　the　town　of　Yarmouth；　and
  has；　I　think；　parishes；　yet　I　cannot　allow　that　it　has　more　people
  than　Yarmouth；　if　so　many。　　It　is　a　beautiful；　well　built；　and　well
  situated　town；　at　the　mouth　of　the　River　Ouse；　and　has　this
  particular　attending　it；　which　gives　it　a　vast　advantage　in　trade；
  namely；　that　there　is　the　greatest　extent　of　inland　navigation　here
  of　any　port　in　England；　London　excepted。　　The　reason　whereof　is
  this；　that　there　are　more　navigable　rivers　empty　themselves　here
  into　the　sea；　including　the　washes；　which　are　branches　of　the　same
  port；　than　at　any　one　mouth　of　waters　in　England；　except　the　Thames
  and　the　Humber。　　By　these　navigable　rivers；　the　merchants　of　Lynn
  supply　about　six　counties　wholly；　and　three　counties　in　part；　with
  their　goods；　especially　wine　and　coals；　viz。；　by　the　little　Ouse；
  they　send　their　goods　to　Brandon　and　Thetford；　by　the　Lake　to
  Mildenhall；　Barton　Mills；　and　St。　Edmundsbury；　by　the　River　Grant
  to　Cambridge；　by　the　great　Ouse　itself　to　Ely；　to　St。　Ives；　to　St。
  Neots；　to　Barford　Bridge；　and　to　Bedford；　by　the　River　Nyne　to
  Peterborough；　by　the　drains　and　washes　to　Wisbeach；　to　Spalding；
  Market　Deeping；　and　Stamford；　besides　the　several　counties；　into
  which　these　goods　are　carried　by　land…carriage；　from　the　places；
  where　the　navigation　of　those　rivers　end；　which　has　given　rise　to
  this　observation　on　the　town　of　Lynn；　that　they　bring　in　more　coals
  than　any　sea…port　between　London　and　Newcastle；　and　import　more
  wines　than　any　port　in　England；　except　London　and　Bristol；　their
  trade　to　Norway　and　to　the　Baltic　Sea　is　also　great　in　proportion；
  and　of　late　years　they　have　extended　their　trade　farther　to　the
  southward。
  Here　are　more　gentry；　and　consequently　is　more　gaiety　in　this　town
  than　in　Yarmouth；　or　even　in　Norwich　itself　…　the　place　abounding
  in　very　good　company。
  The　situation　of　this　town　renders　it　capable　of　being　made　very
  strong；　and　in　the　late　wars　it　was　so；　a　line　of　fortification
  being　drawn　round　it　at　a　distance　from　the　walls；　the　ruins；　or
  rather　remains　of　which　works　appear　very　fair　to　this　day；　nor
  would　it　be　a　hard　matter　to　restore　the　bastions；　with　the
  ravelins；　and　counterscarp；　upon　any　sudden　emergency；　to　a　good
  state　of　defence：　and　that　in　a　little　time；　a　sufficient　number　of
  workmen　being　employed；　especially　because　they　are　able　to　fill
  all　their　ditches　with　water　from　the　sea；　in　such　a　manner　as　that
  it　cannot　be　drawn　off。
  There　is　in　the　market…place　of　this　town　a　very　fine　statue　of
  King　William　on　horseback；　erected　at　the　charge　of　the　town。　　The
  Ouse　is　mighty　large　and　deep；　close　to　the　very　town　itself；　and
  ships　of　good　burthen　may　come　up　to　the　quay；　but　there　is　no
  bridge；　the　stream　being　too　strong　and　the　bottom　moorish　and
  unsound；　nor；　for　the　same　reason；　is　the　anchorage　computed　the
  best　in　the　world；　but　there　are　good　roads　farther　down。
  They　pass　over　here　in　boats　into　the　fen　country；　and　over　the
  famous　washes　into　Lincolnshire；　but　the　passage　is　very　dangerous
  and　uneasy；　and　where　passengers　often　miscarry　and　are　lost；　but
  then　it　is　usually　on　their　venturing　at　improper　times；　and
  without　the　guides；　which　if　they　would　be　persuaded　not　to　do；
  they　would　very　rarely　fail　of　going　or　coming　safe。
  From　Lynn　I　bent　my　course　to　Downham；　where　is　an　ugly　wooden
  bridge　over　the　Ouse；　from　whence　we　passed　the　fen　country　to
  Wisbeach；　but　saw　nothing　that　way　to　tempt　our　curiosity　but　deep
  roads；　innumerable　drains　and　dykes　of　water；　all　navigable；　and　a
  rich　soil；　the　land　bearing　a　vast　quantity　of　good　hemp；　but　a
  base　unwholesome　air；　so　we　came　back　to　Ely；　whose　cathedral；
  standing　in　a　level　flat　country；　is　seen　far　and　wide；　and　of
  which　town；　when　the　minster；　so　they　call　it；　is　described；
  everything　remarkable　is　said　that　there　is　room　to　say。　　And　of
  the　minster；　this　is　the　most　remarkable　thing　that　I　could　hear
  it；　namely；　that　some　of　it　is　so　ancient；　totters　so　much　with
  every　gust　of　wind；　looks　so　like　a　decay；　and　seems　so　near　it；
  that　whenever　it　does　fall；　all　that　it　is　likely　will　be　thought
  strange　in　it　will　be　that　it　did　not　fall　a　hundred　years　sooner。
  From　hence　we　came　over　the　Ouse；　and　in　a　few　miles　to　Newmarket。
  In　our　way；　near　Snaybell；　we　saw　a　noble　seat　of　the　late　Admiral
  Russell；　now　Earl　of　Orford；　a　name　made　famous　by　the　glorious
  victory　obtained　under　his　command　over　the　French　fleet　and　the
  burning　their　ships　at　La　Hogue　…　a　victory　equal　in　glory　to；　and
  infinitely　more　glorious　to　the　English　nation　in　particular；　than
  that　at　Blenheim；　and；　above　all；　more　to　the　particular　advantage
  of　the　confederacy；　because　it　so　broke　the　heart　of　the　naval
  power　of　France　that　they　have　not　fully　recovered　it　to　this　day。
  But　of　this　victory　it　must　be　said　it　was　owing　to　the　haughty；
  rash；　and　insolent　orders　given　by　the　King　of　France　to　his
  admiral；　viz。；　to　fight　the　confederate　fleet　wherever　he　found
  them；　without　leaving　room　for　him　to　use　due　caution　if　he　found
  them　too　strong；　which　pride　of　France　was　doubtless　a　fate　upon
  them；　and　gave　a　cheap　victory　to　the　confederates；　the　French
  coming　down　rashly；　and　with　the　most　impolitic　bravery；　with　about
  five…and…forty　sail　to　attack　between　seventy　and　eighty　sail；　by
  which　means　they　met　their　ruin。　　Whereas；　had　their　own　fleet　been
  joined；　it　might　have　cost　more　blood　to　have　mastered　them　if　it
  had　been　done　at　all。
  The　situation　of　this　house　is　low；　and　on　the　edge　of　the　fen
  country；　but　the　building　is　very　fine；　the　avenues　noble；　and　the
  gardens　perfectly　finished。　　The　apartments　also　are　rich；　and　I
  see　nothing　wanting　but　a　family　and　heirs　to　sustain　the　glory　and
  inheritance　of　the　illustrious　ancestor　who　raised　it　…　SED　CARET
  PEDIBUS；　these　are　wanting。
  Being　come　to　Newmarket　in　the　month　of　October；　I　had　the
  opportunity　to　see　the　horse　races　and　a　great　concourse　of　the
  nobility　and　gentry；　as　well　from　London　as　from　all　parts　of
  England；　but　they　were　all　so　intent；　so　eager；　so　busy　upon　the
  sharping　part　of　the　sport　…　their　wagers　and　bets　…　that　to　me
  they　seemed　just　as　so　many　horse…coursers　in　Smithfield；
  descending　（the　greatest　of　them）　from　their　high　dignity　and
  quality　to　picking　one　another's　pockets；　and　biting　one　another　as
  much　as　possible；　and　that　with　such　eagerness　as　that　it　might　be
  said　they　acted　without　respect　to　faith；　honour；　or　good　manners。
  There　was　Mr。　Frampton　the　oldest；　and；　as　some　say；　the　cunningest
  jockey　in　England；　one　day　he　lost　one　thousand　guineas；　the　next
  he　won　two　thousand；　and　so　alternately　he　made　as　light　of
  throwing　away　five　hundred　or　one　thousand　pounds　at　a　time　as
  other　men　do　of　their　pocket…money；　and　as　perfectly　calm；
  cheerful；　and　unconcerned　when　he　had　lost　one　thousand　pounds　as
  when　he　had　won　it。　　On　the　other　side　there　was　Sir　R　Fagg；　of
  Sussex；　of　whom　fame　says　he　has　the　most　in　him　and　the　least　to
  show　for　it　（relating　to　jockeyship）　of　any　man　there；　yet　he　often
  carried　the　prize。　　His　horses；　they　said；　were　all　cheats；　how
  honest　soever　their　master　was；　for　he　scarce　ever　produced　a　horse
  but　he　looked　like　what　he　was　not；　and　was　what　nobody　could
  expect　him　to　be。　　If　he　was　as　light　as　the　wind；　and　could　fly
  like　a　meteor；　he　was　sure　to　look　as　clumsy；　and　as　dirty；　and　as
  much　like　a　cart…horse　as　all　the　cunning　of　his　master　and　the
  grooms　could　make　him；　and　just　in　this　manner　he　beat　some　of　the
  greatest　gamesters　in　the　field。
  I　was　so　sick　of　the　jockeying　part　that　I　left　the　crowd　about　the
  posts　and　pleased　myself　with　observing　the