第 19 节
作者:
西门在线 更新:2021-02-20 18:43 字数:9322
great number of ships which are continually going and coming this
way in their passage between London and all the northern coasts of
Great Britain。 Matters of antiquity are not my inquiry; but
principally observations on the present state of things; and; if
possible; to give such accounts of things worthy of recording as
have never been observed before; and this leads me the more
directly to mention the commerce and the navigation when I come to
towns upon the coast as what few writers have yet meddled with。
The reason of the dangers of this particular coast are found in the
situation of the county and in the course of ships sailing this
way; which I shall describe as well as I can thus:… The shore from
the mouth of the River of Thames to Yarmouth Roads lies in a
straight line from SSE。 TO NNW。; the land being on the W。 or
larboard side。
From Wintertonness; which is the utmost northerly point of land in
the county of Norfolk; and about four miles beyond Yarmouth; the
shore falls off for nearly sixty miles to the west; as far as Lynn
and Boston; till the shore of Lincolnshire tends north again for
about sixty miles more as far as the Humber; whence the coast of
Yorkshire; or Holderness; which is the east riding; shoots out
again into the sea; to the Spurn and to Flamborough Head; as far
east; almost; as the shore of Norfolk had given back at Winterton;
making a very deep gulf or bay between those two points of
Winterton and the Spurn Head; so that the ships going north are
obliged to stretch away to sea from Wintertonness; and leaving the
sight of land in that deep bay which I have mentioned; that reaches
to Lynn and the shore of Lincolnshire; they go; I say; N。 or still
NNW。 to meet the shore of Holderness; which I said runs out into
the sea again at the Spurn; and the first land they make or desire
to make; is called as above; Flamborough Head; so that
Wintertonness and Flamborough Head are the two extremes of this
course; there is; as I said; the Spurn Head indeed between; but as
it lies too far in towards the Humber; they keep out to the north
to avoid coming near it。
In like manner the ships which come from the north; leave the shore
at Flamborough Head; and stretch away SSE。 for Yarmouth Roads; and
they first land they make is Wintertonness (as above)。 Now; the
danger of the place is this: if the ships coming from the north are
taken with a hard gale of wind from the SE。; or from any point
between NE。 and SE。; so that they cannot; as the seamen call it;
weather Wintertonness; they are thereby kept within that deep bay;
and if the wind blows hard; are often in danger of running on shore
upon the rocks about Cromer; on the north coast of Norfolk; or
stranding upon the flat shore between Cromer and Wells; all the
relief they have; is good ground tackle to ride it out; which is
very hard to do there; the sea coming very high upon them; or if
they cannot ride it out then; to run into the bottom of the great
bay I mentioned; to Lynn or Boston; which is a very difficult and
desperate push: so that sometimes in this distress whole fleets
have been lost here altogether。
The like is the danger to ships going northward; if after passing
by Winterton they are taken short with a north…east wind; and
cannot put back into the Roads; which very often happens; then they
are driven upon the same coast; and embayed just as the latter。
The danger on the north part of this bay is not the same; because
if ships going or coming should be taken short on this side
Flamborough; there is the river Humber open to them; and several
good roads to have recourse to; as Burlington Bay; Grimsby Road;
and the Spurn Head; and others; where they ride under shelter。
The dangers of this place being thus considered; it is no wonder;
that upon the shore beyond Yarmouth there are no less than four
lighthouses kept flaming every night; besides the lights at Castor;
north of the town; and at Goulston S。; all of which are to direct
the sailors to keep a good offing in case of bad weather; and to
prevent their running into Cromer Bay; which the seamen call the
devil's throat。
As I went by land from Yarmouth northward; along the shore towards
Cromer aforesaid; and was not then fully master of the reason of
these things; I was surprised to see; in all the way from
Winterton; that the farmers and country people had scarce a barn;
or a shed; or a stable; nay; not the pales of their yards and
gardens; not a hogstye; not a necessary house; but what was built
of old planks; beams; wales; and timbers; etc。; the wrecks of
ships; and ruins of mariners' and merchants' fortunes; and in some
places were whole yards filled and piled up very high with the same
stuff laid up; as I supposed to sell for the like building
purposes; as there should he occasion。
About the year 1692 (I think it was that year) there was a
melancholy example of what I have said of this place: a fleet of
200 sail of light colliers (so they call the ships bound northward
empty to fetch coals from Newcastle to London) went out of Yarmouth
Roads with a fair wind; to pursue their voyage; and were taken
short with a storm of wind at NE。 after they were past
Wintertonness; a few leagues; some of them; whose masters were a
little more wary than the rest; or perhaps; who made a better
judgment of things; or who were not so far out as the rest; tacked;
and put back in time; and got safe into the roads; but the rest
pushing on in hopes to keep out to sea; and weather it; were by the
violence of the storm driven back; when they were too far embayed
to weather Wintertonness as above; and so were forced to run west;
everyone shifting for themselves as well as they could; some run
away for Lynn Deeps; but few of them (the night being so dark)
could find their way in there; some; but very few; rode it out at a
distance; the rest; being above 140 sail; were all driven on shore
and dashed to pieces; and very few of the people on board were
saved: at the very same unhappy juncture; a fleet of laden ships
were coming from the north; and being just crossing the same bay;
were forcibly driven into it; not able to weather the Ness; and so
were involved in the same ruin as the light fleet was; also some
coasting vessels laden with corn from Lynn and Wells; and bound for
Holland; were with the same unhappy luck just come out to begin
their voyage; and some of them lay at anchor; these also met with
the same misfortune; so that; in the whole; above 200 sail of
ships; and above a thousand people; perished in the disaster of
that one miserable night; very few escaping。
Cromer is a market town close to the shore of this dangerous coast。
I know nothing it is famous for (besides it being thus the terror
of the sailors) except good lobsters; which are taken on that coast
in great numbers and carried to Norwich; and in such quantities
sometimes too as to be conveyed by sea to London。
Farther within the land; and between this place and Norwich; are
several good market towns; and innumerable villages; all diligently
applying to the woollen manufacture; and the country is exceedingly
fruitful and fertile; as well in corn as in pastures; particularly;
which was very pleasant to see; the pheasants were in such great
plenty as to be seen in the stubbles like cocks and hens … a
testimony though; by the way; that the county had more tradesmen
than gentlemen in it; indeed; this part is so entirely given up to
industry; that what with the seafaring men on the one side; and the
manufactures on the other; we saw no idle hands here; but every man
busy on the main affair of life; that is to say; getting money;
some of the principal of these towns are:… Alsham; North Walsham;
South Walsham; Worsted; Caston; Reepham; Holt; Saxthorp; St。
Faith's; Blikling; and many others。 Near the last; Sir John
Hobart; of an ancient family in this county; has a noble seat; but
old built。 This is that St。 Faith's; where the drovers bring their
black cattle to sell to the Norfolk graziers; as is observed above。
From Cromer we ride on the strand or open shore to Weyburn Hope;
the shore so flat that in some places the tide ebbs out near two
miles。 From Weyburn west lies Clye; where there are large salt…
works and very good salt made; which is sold all over the county;
and sometimes sent to Holland and to the Baltic。 From Clye we go
to Masham and to Wells; all towns on the coast; in each whereof
there is a very considerable trade carried on with Holland for
corn; which that part of the county is very full of。 I say nothing
of the great trade driven here from Holland; back again to England;
because I take it to be a trade carried on with much less honesty
than advantage; especially while the clandestine trade; or the art
of smuggling was so much in practice: what it is now; is not to my
present purpose。
Near this town lie Th