第 18 节
作者:
西门在线 更新:2021-02-20 18:43 字数:9322
open to the river; makes the finest quay in England; if not in
Europe; not inferior even to that of Marseilles itself。
The ships ride here so close; and; as it were; keeping up one
another; with their headfasts on shore; that for half a mile
together they go across the stream with their bowsprits over the
land; their bows; or heads touching the very wharf; so that one may
walk from ship to ship as on a floating bridge; all along by the
shore…side。 The quay reaching from the drawbridge almost to the
south gate; is so spacious and wide; that in some places it is near
one hundred yards from the houses to the wharf。 In this pleasant
and agreeable range of houses are some very magnificent buildings;
and among the rest; the Custom House and Town Hall; and some
merchant's houses; which look like little palaces rather than the
dwelling…houses of private men。
The greatest defect of this beautiful town seems to be that; though
it is very rich and increasing in wealth and trade; and
consequently in people; there is not room to enlarge the town by
building; which would be certainly done much more than it is; but
that the river on the land side prescribes them; except at the
north end without the gate; and even there the land is not very
agreeable。 But had they had a larger space within the gates there
would before now have been many spacious streets of noble fine
buildings erected; as we see is done in some other thriving towns
in England; as at Liverpool; Manchester; Bristol; Frome; etc。
The quay and the harbour of this town during the fishing fair; as
they call it; which is every Michaelmas; one sees the land covered
with people; and the river with barques and boats; busy day and
night landing and carrying of the herrings; which they catch here
in such prodigious quantities; that it is incredible。 I happened
to be there during their fishing fair; when I told in one tide 110
barques and fishing vessels coming up the river all laden with
herrings; and all taken the night before; and this was besides what
was brought on shore on the Dean (that is the seaside of the town)
by open boats; which they call cobles; and which often bring in two
or three last of fish at a time。 The barques often bring in ten
last a piece。
This fishing fair begins on Michaelmas Day; and lasts all the month
of October; by which time the herrings draw off to sea; shoot their
spawn; and are no more fit for the merchant's business … at least;
not those that are taken thereabouts。
The quantity of herrings that are caught in this season are
diversely accounted for。 Some have said that the towns of Yarmouth
and Lowestoft only have taken 40;000 last in a season。 I will not
venture to confirm that report; but this I have heard the merchants
themselves say; viz。; that they have cured … that is to say; hanged
and dried in the smoke … 40;000 barrels of merchantable red
herrings in one season; which is in itself (though far short of the
other) yet a very considerable article; and it is to be added that
this is besides all the herrings consumed in the country towns of
both those populous counties for thirty miles from the sea; whither
very great quantities are carried every tide during the whole
season。
But this is only one branch of the great trade carried on in this
town。 Another part of this commerce is in the exporting these
herrings after they are cured; and for this their merchants have a
great trade to Genoa; Leghorn; Naples; Messina; and Venice; as also
to Spain and Portugal; also exporting with their herring very great
quantities of worsted stuffs; and stuffs made of silk and worsted;
camblets; etc。; the manufactures of the neighbouring city of
Norwich and of the places adjacent。
Besides this; they carry on a very considerable trade with Holland;
whose opposite neighbours they are; and a vast quantity of woollen
manufactures they export to the Dutch every year。 Also they have a
fishing trade to the North Seas for white fish; which from the
place are called the North Sea cod。
They have also a considerable trade to Norway and to the Baltic;
from whence they bring back deals and fir timber; oaken plank;
balks; spars; oars; pitch; tar; hemp; flax; spruce canvas; and
sail…cloth; with all manner of naval stores; which they generally
have a consumption for in their own port; where they build a very
great number of ships every year; besides refitting and repairing
the old。
Add to this the coal trade between Newcastle and the river of
Thames; in which they are so improved of late years that they have
now a greater share of it than any other town in England; and have
quite worked the Ipswich men out of it who had formerly the chief
share of the colliery in their hands。
For the carrying on all these trades they must have a very great
number of ships; either of their own or employed by them: and it
may in some measure be judged of by this that in the year 1697; I
had an account from the town register that there was then 1;123
sail of ships using the sea and belonged to the town; besides such
ships as the merchants of Yarmouth might be concerned in; and be
part owners of; belonging to any other ports。
To all this I must add; without compliment to the town or to the
people; that the merchants; and even the generality of traders of
Yarmouth; have a very good reputation in trade as well abroad as at
home for men of fair and honourable dealing; punctual and just in
their performing their engagements and in discharging commissions;
and their seamen; as well masters as mariners; are justly esteemed
among the ablest and most expert navigators in England。
This town; however populous and large; was ever contained in one
parish; and had but one church; but within these two years they
have built another very fine church near the south end of the town。
The old church is dedicated to St。 Nicholas; and was built by that
famous Bishop of Norwich; William Herbert; who flourished in the
reign of William II。; and Henry I。; William of Malmesbury; calls
him VIR PECUNIOSUS; he might have called him VIR PECUNIOSISSIMUS;
considering the times he lived in; and the works of charity and
munificence which he has left as witnesses of his immense riches;
for he built the Cathedral Church; the Priory for sixty monks; the
Bishop's Palace; and the parish church of St。 Leonard; all in
Norwich; this great church at Yarmouth; the Church of St。 Margaret
at Lynn; and of St。 Mary at Elmham。 He removed the episcopal see
from Thetford to Norwich; and instituted the Cluniack Monks at
Thetford; and gave them or built them a house。 This old church is
very large; and has a high spire; which is a useful sea…mark。
Here is one of the finest market…places and the best served with
provisions in England; London excepted; and the inhabitants are so
multiplied in a few years that they seem to want room in their town
rather than people to fill it; as I have observed above。
The streets are all exactly straight from north to south; with
lanes or alleys; which they call rows; crossing them in straight
lines also from east to west; so that it is the most regular built
town in England; and seems to have been built all at once; or that
the dimensions of the houses and extent of the streets were laid
out by consent。
They have particular privileges in this town and a jurisdiction by
which they can try; condemn; and execute in especial cases without
waiting for a warrant from above; and this they exerted once very
smartly in executing a captain of one of the king's ships of war in
the reign of King Charles II。 for a murder committed in the street;
the circumstance of which did indeed call for justice; but some
thought they would not have ventured to exert their powers as they
did。 However; I never heard that the Government resented it or
blamed them for it。
It is also a very well…governed town; and I have nowhere in England
observed the Sabbath day so exactly kept; or the breach so
continually punished; as in this place; which I name to their
honour。
Among all these regularities it is no wonder if we do not find
abundance of revelling; or that there is little encouragement to
assemblies; plays; and gaming meetings at Yarmouth as in some other
places; and yet I do not see that the ladies here come behind any
of the neighbouring counties; either in beauty; breeding; or
behaviour; to which may be added too; not at all to their
disadvantage; that they generally go beyond them in fortunes。
From Yarmouth I resolved to pursue my first design; viz。; to view
the seaside on this coast; which is particularly famous for being
one of the most dangerous and most fatal to the sailors in all
England … I may say in all Britain … and the more so because of the
great number of ships which are continually going and coming this
way in their passage between London and all th