第 18 节
作者:西门在线      更新:2021-02-20 18:43      字数:9322
  open to the river; makes the finest quay in England; if not in
  Europe; not inferior even to that of Marseilles itself。
  The ships ride here so close; and; as it were; keeping up one
  another; with their headfasts on shore; that for half a mile
  together they go across the stream with their bowsprits over the
  land; their bows; or heads touching the very wharf; so that one may
  walk from ship to ship as on a floating bridge; all along by the
  shore…side。  The quay reaching from the drawbridge almost to the
  south gate; is so spacious and wide; that in some places it is near
  one hundred yards from the houses to the wharf。  In this pleasant
  and agreeable range of houses are some very magnificent buildings;
  and among the rest; the Custom House and Town Hall; and some
  merchant's houses; which look like little palaces rather than the
  dwelling…houses of private men。
  The greatest defect of this beautiful town seems to be that; though
  it is very rich and increasing in wealth and trade; and
  consequently in people; there is not room to enlarge the town by
  building; which would be certainly done much more than it is; but
  that the river on the land side prescribes them; except at the
  north end without the gate; and even there the land is not very
  agreeable。  But had they had a larger space within the gates there
  would before now have been many spacious streets of noble fine
  buildings erected; as we see is done in some other thriving towns
  in England; as at Liverpool; Manchester; Bristol; Frome; etc。
  The quay and the harbour of this town during the fishing fair; as
  they call it; which is every Michaelmas; one sees the land covered
  with people; and the river with barques and boats; busy day and
  night landing and carrying of the herrings; which they catch here
  in such prodigious quantities; that it is incredible。  I happened
  to be there during their fishing fair; when I told in one tide 110
  barques and fishing vessels coming up the river all laden with
  herrings; and all taken the night before; and this was besides what
  was brought on shore on the Dean (that is the seaside of the town)
  by open boats; which they call cobles; and which often bring in two
  or three last of fish at a time。  The barques often bring in ten
  last a piece。
  This fishing fair begins on Michaelmas Day; and lasts all the month
  of October; by which time the herrings draw off to sea; shoot their
  spawn; and are no more fit for the merchant's business … at least;
  not those that are taken thereabouts。
  The quantity of herrings that are caught in this season are
  diversely accounted for。  Some have said that the towns of Yarmouth
  and Lowestoft only have taken 40;000 last in a season。  I will not
  venture to confirm that report; but this I have heard the merchants
  themselves say; viz。; that they have cured … that is to say; hanged
  and dried in the smoke … 40;000 barrels of merchantable red
  herrings in one season; which is in itself (though far short of the
  other) yet a very considerable article; and it is to be added that
  this is besides all the herrings consumed in the country towns of
  both those populous counties for thirty miles from the sea; whither
  very great quantities are carried every tide during the whole
  season。
  But this is only one branch of the great trade carried on in this
  town。  Another part of this commerce is in the exporting these
  herrings after they are cured; and for this their merchants have a
  great trade to Genoa; Leghorn; Naples; Messina; and Venice; as also
  to Spain and Portugal; also exporting with their herring very great
  quantities of worsted stuffs; and stuffs made of silk and worsted;
  camblets; etc。; the manufactures of the neighbouring city of
  Norwich and of the places adjacent。
  Besides this; they carry on a very considerable trade with Holland;
  whose opposite neighbours they are; and a vast quantity of woollen
  manufactures they export to the Dutch every year。  Also they have a
  fishing trade to the North Seas for white fish; which from the
  place are called the North Sea cod。
  They have also a considerable trade to Norway and to the Baltic;
  from whence they bring back deals and fir timber; oaken plank;
  balks; spars; oars; pitch; tar; hemp; flax; spruce canvas; and
  sail…cloth; with all manner of naval stores; which they generally
  have a consumption for in their own port; where they build a very
  great number of ships every year; besides refitting and repairing
  the old。
  Add to this the coal trade between Newcastle and the river of
  Thames; in which they are so improved of late years that they have
  now a greater share of it than any other town in England; and have
  quite worked the Ipswich men out of it who had formerly the chief
  share of the colliery in their hands。
  For the carrying on all these trades they must have a very great
  number of ships; either of their own or employed by them: and it
  may in some measure be judged of by this that in the year 1697; I
  had an account from the town register that there was then 1;123
  sail of ships using the sea and belonged to the town; besides such
  ships as the merchants of Yarmouth might be concerned in; and be
  part owners of; belonging to any other ports。
  To all this I must add; without compliment to the town or to the
  people; that the merchants; and even the generality of traders of
  Yarmouth; have a very good reputation in trade as well abroad as at
  home for men of fair and honourable dealing; punctual and just in
  their performing their engagements and in discharging commissions;
  and their seamen; as well masters as mariners; are justly esteemed
  among the ablest and most expert navigators in England。
  This town; however populous and large; was ever contained in one
  parish; and had but one church; but within these two years they
  have built another very fine church near the south end of the town。
  The old church is dedicated to St。 Nicholas; and was built by that
  famous Bishop of Norwich; William Herbert; who flourished in the
  reign of William II。; and Henry I。; William of Malmesbury; calls
  him VIR PECUNIOSUS; he might have called him VIR PECUNIOSISSIMUS;
  considering the times he lived in; and the works of charity and
  munificence which he has left as witnesses of his immense riches;
  for he built the Cathedral Church; the Priory for sixty monks; the
  Bishop's Palace; and the parish church of St。 Leonard; all in
  Norwich; this great church at Yarmouth; the Church of St。 Margaret
  at Lynn; and of St。 Mary at Elmham。  He removed the episcopal see
  from Thetford to Norwich; and instituted the Cluniack Monks at
  Thetford; and gave them or built them a house。  This old church is
  very large; and has a high spire; which is a useful sea…mark。
  Here is one of the finest market…places and the best served with
  provisions in England; London excepted; and the inhabitants are so
  multiplied in a few years that they seem to want room in their town
  rather than people to fill it; as I have observed above。
  The streets are all exactly straight from north to south; with
  lanes or alleys; which they call rows; crossing them in straight
  lines also from east to west; so that it is the most regular built
  town in England; and seems to have been built all at once; or that
  the dimensions of the houses and extent of the streets were laid
  out by consent。
  They have particular privileges in this town and a jurisdiction by
  which they can try; condemn; and execute in especial cases without
  waiting for a warrant from above; and this they exerted once very
  smartly in executing a captain of one of the king's ships of war in
  the reign of King Charles II。 for a murder committed in the street;
  the circumstance of which did indeed call for justice; but some
  thought they would not have ventured to exert their powers as they
  did。  However; I never heard that the Government resented it or
  blamed them for it。
  It is also a very well…governed town; and I have nowhere in England
  observed the Sabbath day so exactly kept; or the breach so
  continually punished; as in this place; which I name to their
  honour。
  Among all these regularities it is no wonder if we do not find
  abundance of revelling; or that there is little encouragement to
  assemblies; plays; and gaming meetings at Yarmouth as in some other
  places; and yet I do not see that the ladies here come behind any
  of the neighbouring counties; either in beauty; breeding; or
  behaviour; to which may be added too; not at all to their
  disadvantage; that they generally go beyond them in fortunes。
  From Yarmouth I resolved to pursue my first design; viz。; to view
  the seaside on this coast; which is particularly famous for being
  one of the most dangerous and most fatal to the sailors in all
  England … I may say in all Britain … and the more so because of the
  great number of ships which are continually going and coming this
  way in their passage between London and all th