第 17 节
作者:西门在线      更新:2021-02-20 18:43      字数:9322
  the cries of the poor began to be very loud; when the wearing of
  painted calicoes was grown to such a height in England; as was seen
  about two or three years ago; but an Act of Parliament having been
  obtained; though not without great struggle; in the years 1720 and
  1721; for prohibiting the use and wearing of calicoes; the stuff
  trade revived incredibly; and as I passed this part of the country
  in the year 1723; the manufacturers assured me that there was not;
  in all the eastern and middle part of Norfolk; any hand unemployed;
  if they would work; and that the very children; after four or five
  years of age; could every one earn their own bread。  But I return
  to speak of the villages and towns in the rest of the county; I
  shall come to the city of Norwich by itself。
  This throng of villages continues through all the east part of the
  country; which is of the greatest extent; and where the manufacture
  is chiefly carried on。  If any part of it be waste and thin of
  inhabitants; it is the west part; drawing a line from about Brand;
  or Brandon; south; to Walsinghan; north。  This part of the country
  indeed is full of open plains; and somewhat sandy and barren; and
  feeds great flocks of good sheep; but put it all together; the
  county of Norfolk has the most people in the least tract of land of
  any county in England; except about London; and Exon; and the West
  Riding of Yorkshire; as above。
  Add to this; that there is no single county in England; except as
  above; that can boast of three towns so populous; so rich; and so
  famous for trade and navigation; as in this county。  By these three
  towns; I mean the city of Norwich; the towns of Yarmouth and Lynn。
  Besides that; it has several other seaports of very good trade; as
  Wisbech; Wells; Burnham; Clye; etc。
  Norwich is the capital of all the county; and the centre of all the
  trade and manufactures which I have just mentioned; an ancient;
  large; rich; and populous city。  If a stranger was only to ride
  through or view the city of Norwich for a day; he would have much
  more reason to think there was a town without inhabitants; than
  there is really to say so of Ipswich; but on the contrary if he was
  to view the city; either on a Sabbath…day; or on any public
  occasion; he would wonder where all the people could dwell; the
  multitude is so great。  But the case is this: the inhabitants being
  all busy at their manufactures; dwell in their garrets at their
  looms; and in their combing shops (so they call them); twisting…
  mills; and other work…houses; almost all the works they are
  employed in being done within doors。  There are in this city
  thirty…two parishes besides the cathedral; and a great many
  meeting…houses of Dissenters of all denominations。  The public
  edifices are chiefly the castle; ancient and decayed; and now for
  many years past made use of for a gaol。  The Duke of Norfolk's
  house was formerly kept well; and the gardens preserved for the
  pleasure and diversion of the citizens; but since feeling too
  sensibly the sinking circumstances of that once glorious family;
  who were the first peers and hereditary earl…marshals of England。
  The walls of this city are reckoned three miles in circumference;
  taking in more ground than the City of London; but much of that
  ground lying open in pasture…fields and gardens; nor does it seem
  to be; like some ancient places; a decayed; declining town; and
  that the walls mark out its ancient dimensions; for we do not see
  room to suppose that it was ever larger or more populous than it is
  now。  But the walls seem to be placed as if they expected that the
  city would in time increase sufficiently to fill them up with
  buildings。
  The cathedral of this city is a fine fabric; and the spire steeple
  very high and beautiful。  It is not ancient; the bishop's see
  having been first at Thetford; from whence it was not translated
  hither till the twelfth century。  Yet the church has so many
  antiquities in it; that our late great scholar and physician; Sir
  Thomas Brown; thought it worth his while to write a whole book to
  collect the monuments and inscriptions in this church; to which I
  refer the reader。
  The River Yare runs through this city; and is navigable thus far
  without the help of any art (that is to say; without locks or
  stops); and being increased by other waters; passes afterwards
  through a long tract of the richest meadows; and the largest; take
  them all together; that are anywhere in England; lying for thirty
  miles in length; from this city to Yarmouth; including the return
  of the said meadows on the bank of the Waveney south; and on the
  River Thyrn north。
  Here is one thing indeed strange in itself; and more so; in that
  history seems to be quite ignorant of the occasion of it。  The
  River Waveney is a considerable river; and of a deep and full
  channel; navigable for large barges as high as Beccles; it runs for
  a course of about fifty miles; between the two counties of Suffolk
  and Norfolk; as a boundary to both; and pushing on; though with a
  gentle stream; towards the sea; no one would doubt; but; that when
  they see the river growing broader and deeper; and going directly
  towards the sea; even to the edge of the beach … that is to say;
  within a mile of the main ocean … no stranger; I say; but would
  expect to see its entrance into the sea at that place; and a noble
  harbour for ships at the mouth of it; when on a sudden; the land
  rising high by the seaside; crosses the head of the river; like a
  dam; checks the whole course of it; and it returns; bending its
  course west; for two miles; or thereabouts; and then turning north;
  through another long course of meadows (joining to those just now
  mentioned) seeks out the River Yare; that it may join its water
  with hers; and find their way to the sea together
  Some of our historians tell a long; fabulous story of this river
  being once open; and a famous harbour for ships belonging to a town
  of Lowestoft adjoining; but that the town of Yarmouth envying the
  prosperity of the said town of Lowestoft; made war upon them; and
  that after many bloody battles; as well by sea as by land; they
  came at last to a decisive action at sea with their respective
  fleets; and the victory fell to the Yarmouth men; the Lowestoft
  fleet being overthrown and utterly destroyed; and that upon this
  victory; the Yarmouth men either actually did stop up the mouth of
  the said river; or obliged the vanquished Lowestoft men to do it
  themselves; and bound them never to attempt to open it again。
  I believe my share of this story; and I recommend no more of it to
  the reader; adding; that I see no authority for the relation;
  neither do the relators agree either in the time of it; or in the
  particulars of the fact; that is to say; in whose reign; or under
  what government all this happened; in what year; and the like; so I
  satisfy myself with transcribing the matter of fact; and then leave
  it as I find it。
  In this vast tract of meadows are fed a prodigious number of black
  cattle which are said to be fed up for the fattest beef; though not
  the largest in England; and the quantity is so great; as that they
  not only supply the city of Norwich; the town of Yarmouth; and
  county adjacent; but send great quantities of them weekly in all
  the winter season to London。
  And this in particular is worthy remark; that the gross of all the
  Scots cattle which come yearly into England are brought hither;
  being brought to a small village lying north of the city of
  Norwich; called St。 Faith's; where the Norfolk graziers go and buy
  them。
  These Scots runts; so they call them; coming out of the cold and
  barren mountains of the Highlands in Scotland; feed so eagerly on
  the rich pasture in these marshes; that they thrive in an unusual
  manner; and grow monstrously fat; and the beef is so delicious for
  taste; that the inhabitants prefer them to the English cattle;
  which are much larger and fairer to look at; and they may very well
  do so。  Some have told me; and I believe with good judgment; that
  there are above forty thousand of these Scots cattle fed in this
  county every year; and most of them in the said marshes between
  Norwich; Beccles; and Yarmouth。
  Yarmouth is an ancient town; much older than Norwich; and at
  present; though not standing on so much ground; yet better built;
  much more complete; for number of inhabitants; not much inferior;
  and for wealth; trade; and advantage of its situation; infinitely
  superior to Norwich。
  It is placed on a peninsula between the River Yare and the sea; the
  two last lying parallel to one another; and the town in the middle。
  The river lies on the west side of the town; and being grown very
  large and deep; by a conflux of all the rivers on this side the
  county; forms the haven; and the town facing to the west also; and
  open to the river; makes the finest quay in England; if not in
  Europe; not inferior ev