第 2 节
作者:西门在线      更新:2021-02-20 18:43      字数:9322
  to Dagenham; stood a great house; ancient; and now almost fallen
  down; where tradition says the Gunpowder Treason Plot was at first
  contrived; and that all the first consultations about it were held
  there。
  This side of the county is rather rich in land than in inhabitants;
  occasioned chiefly by the unhealthiness of the air; for these low
  marsh grounds; which; with all the south side of the county; have
  been saved out of the River Thames; and out of the sea; where the
  river is wide enough to be called so; begin here; or rather begin
  at West Ham; by Stratford; and continue to extend themselves; from
  hence eastward; growing wider and wider till we come beyond
  Tilbury; when the flat country lies six; seven; or eight miles
  broad; and is justly said to be both unhealthy and unpleasant。
  However; the lands are rich; and; as is observable; it is very good
  farming in the marshes; because the landlords let good pennyworths;
  for it being a place where everybody cannot live; those that
  venture it will have encouragement and indeed it is but reasonable
  they should。
  Several little observations I made in this part of the county of
  Essex。
  1。  We saw; passing from Barking to Dagenham; the famous breach;
  made by an inundation of the Thames; which was so great as that it
  laid near 5;000 acres of land under water; but which after near ten
  years lying under water; and being several times blown up; has been
  at last effectually stopped by the application of Captain Perry;
  the gentleman who; for several years; had been employed in the Czar
  of Muscovy's works; at Veronitza; on the River Don。  This breach
  appeared now effectually made up; and they assured us that the new
  work; where the breach was; is by much esteemed the strongest of
  all the sea walls in that level。
  2。  It was observable that great part of the lands in these levels;
  especially those on this side East Tilbury; are held by the
  farmers; cow…keepers; and grazing butchers who live in and near
  London; and that they are generally stocked (all the winter half
  year) with large fat sheep; viz。; Lincolnshire and Leicestershire
  wethers; which they buy in Smithfield in September and October;
  when the Lincolnshire and Leicestershire graziers sell off their
  stock; and are kept here till Christmas; or Candlemas; or
  thereabouts; and though they are not made at all fatter here than
  they were when bought in; yet the farmer or butcher finds very good
  advantage in it; by the difference of the price of mutton between
  Michaelmas; when it is cheapest; and Candlemas; when it is dearest;
  this is what the butchers value themselves upon; when they tell us
  at the market that it is right marsh…mutton。
  3。  In the bottom of these Marshes; and close to the edge of the
  river; stands the strong fortress of Tilbury; called Tilbury Fort;
  which may justly be looked upon as the key of the River Thames; and
  consequently the key of the City of London。  It is a regular
  fortification。  The design of it was a pentagon; but the water
  bastion; as it would have been called; was never built。  The plan
  was laid out by Sir Martin Beckman; chief engineer to King Charles
  II。; who also designed the works at Sheerness。  The esplanade of
  the fort is very large; and the bastions the largest of any in
  England; the foundation is laid so deep; and piles under that;
  driven down two an end of one another; so far; till they were
  assured they were below the channel of the river; and that the
  piles; which were shed with iron; entered into the solid chalk rock
  adjoining to; or reaching from; the chalk hills on the other side。
  These bastions settled considerably at first; as did also part of
  the curtain; the great quantity of earth that was brought to fill
  them up; necessarily; requiring to be made solid by time; but they
  are now firm as the rocks of chalk which they came from; and the
  filling up one of these bastions; as I have been told by good
  hands; cost the Government 6;000 pounds; being filled with chalk
  rubbish fetched from the chalk pits at Northfleet; just above
  Gravesend。
  The work to the land side is complete; the bastions are faced with
  brick。  There is a double ditch; or moat; the innermost part of
  which is 180 feet broad; there is a good counterscarp; and a
  covered way marked out with ravelins and tenailles; but they are
  not raised a second time after their first settling。
  On the land side there are also two small redoubts of brick; but of
  very little strength; for the chief strength of this fort on the
  land side consists in this; that they are able to lay the whole
  level under water; and so to make it impossible for an enemy to
  make any approaches to the fort that way。
  On the side next the river there is a very strong curtain; with a
  noble gate called the Water Gate in the middle; and the ditch is
  palisadoed。  At the place where the water bastion was designed to
  be built; and which by the plan should run wholly out into the
  river; so to flank the two curtains of each side; I say; in the
  place where it should have been; stands a high tower; which they
  tell us was built in Queen Elizabeth's time; and was called the
  Block House; the side next the water is vacant。
  Before this curtain; above and below the said vacancy; is a
  platform in the place of a counterscarp; on which are planted 106
  pieces of cannon; generally all of them carrying from twenty…four
  to forty…six pound ball; a battery so terrible as well imports the
  consequence of that place; besides which; there are smaller pieces
  planted between; and the bastions and curtain also are planted with
  guns; so that they must be bold fellows who will venture in the
  biggest ships the world has heard of to pass such a battery; if the
  men appointed to serve the guns do their duty like stout fellows;
  as becomes them。
  The present government of this important place is under the prudent
  administration of the Right Honourable the Lord Newbrugh。
  From hence there is nothing for many miles together remarkable but
  a continued level of unhealthy marshes; called the Three Hundreds;
  till we come before Leigh; and to the mouth of the River Chelmer;
  and Blackwater。  These rivers united make a large firth; or inlet
  of the sea; which by Mr。 Camden is called IDUMANUM FLUVIUM; but by
  our fishermen and seamen; who use it as a port; it is called Malden
  Water。
  In this inlet of the sea is Osey; or Osyth Island; commonly called
  Oosy Island; so well known by our London men of pleasure for the
  infinite number of wild fowl; that is to say; duck; mallard; teal;
  and widgeon; of which there are such vast flights; that they tell
  us the island; namely the creek; seems covered with them at certain
  times of the year; and they go from London on purpose for the
  pleasure of shooting; and; indeed; often come home very well laden
  with game。  But it must be remembered too that those gentlemen who
  are such lovers of the sport; and go so far for it; often return
  with an Essex ague on their backs; which they find a heavier load
  than the fowls they have shot。
  It is on this shore; and near this creek; that the greatest
  quantity of fresh fish is caught which supplies not this country
  only; but London markets also。  On the shore; beginning a little
  below Candy Island; or rather below Leigh Road; there lies a great
  shoal or sand called the Black Tail; which runs out near three
  leagues into the sea due east; at the end of it stands a pole or
  mast; set up by the Trinity House men of London; whose business is
  to lay buoys and set up sea marks for the direction of the sailors;
  this is called Shoe Beacon; from the point of land where this sand
  begins; which is called Shoeburyness; and that from the town of
  Shoebury; which stands by it。  From this sand; and on the edge of
  Shoebury; before it; or south west of it; all along; to the mouth
  of Colchester water; the shore is full of shoals and sands; with
  some deep channels between; all which are so full of fish; that not
  only the Barking fishing…smacks come hither to fish; but the whole
  shore is full of small fisher…boats in very great numbers;
  belonging to the villages and towns on the coast; who come in every
  tide with what they take; and selling the smaller fish in the
  country; send the best and largest away upon horses; which go night
  and day to London market。
  N。B。 … I am the more particular in my remarks on this place;
  because in the course of my travels the reader will meet with the
  like in almost every place of note through the whole island; where
  it will be seen how this whole kingdom; as well the people as the
  land; and even the sea; in every part of it; are employed to
  furnish something; and I may add; the best of everything; to supply
  the City of London with provisions; I mean by provisions; corn;
  flesh; fish; butter; cheese; salt; fuel; timber; etc。; and clothes
  also; with everything necessary for building; and furniture f