第 28 节
作者:巴乔的中场      更新:2021-02-20 18:11      字数:9322
  for some miles。 I trust this may be true; and that no mirage deceives
  us。
  〃January 19。…Sailed four miles; at which place we found a new channel
  coming from the south; while our channel of last year from south…east
  appeared to be closed at half a mile distance。 Explored the new channel
  for about two miles; in appearance it was a river of 200 or 300 yards
  wide。 At length we arrived at a sudd of small dimensions with open water
  beyond。 We returned to the junction; and passed the night at a sudd half
  a mile up our old channel。
  〃January 20。…At 7 a。m。 I took the dingy; and with much difficulty pushed
  about a mile through the grass until I found the whole country closed by
  vegetation。 I think the river has opened a new channel; and that the
  passage of yesterday will take us to nearly the same spot above the sudd
  that we reached by another route last year。
  〃Many vessels having arrived; I visited the Englishmen and physicked
  Ramsall and Mr。 Higginbotham。 At 4。15 p。m。 we started; poling round the
  angle to enter the new channel discovered yesterday。 In the evening we
  all sailed with a light breeze; and found the river open for three and a
  half miles ahead。 Halted for the night。
  〃January 21。…The river being closed ahead; I took the dingy; and after
  much trouble succeeded in reaching our old channel in the clear river。
  Having started at 7 a。m。; I returned at 1 p。m。 I had sounded the channel
  the whole distance; and I have determined to cut a passage through
  to…morrow。
  〃January 22。…Cut 350 yards through heavy sudd。 Last year this piece was
  600 yards。 We at length reached the small lake where we last year buried
  the two artillerymen in an ant…hill。
  〃January 23。…I took the diahbeeah a mile and a quarter up  the river;
  while the fleet was being squeezed through our spongy channel。
  〃January 24。…Yesterday the five vessels that were left behind by Raouf
  Bey arrived; and the fleet assembled。
  〃I am in great anxiety about Tayib Agha who has twelve vessels with him;
  none of which are yet in sight。
  〃This black colonel is not clever; and should an accident occur; he will
  be at a loss how to act。 Julian is unwell with fever; but Higginbotham
  is better。
  〃I went a long way in the dingy; and succeeded in finding the true
  channel of the stream by probing with the twelve…foot pole through the
  grass。 To…morrow we shall begin cutting; as the whole country is closed。
  〃The tree that marks the open water of last year is about a mile and a
  half distant。 There is a solitary dry spot near this; the heart of
  desolationa tumulus of about half an acre; like the back of a huge
  tortoise; is raised about five feet above the highest water level。 Upon
  this crocodiles love to bask in undisturbed sleep。
  〃January 25。…The men cut about 300 yards。
  〃January 26。…We again accomplished about 300 yards; and pushed the
  vessels within the channel。
  〃January 27。…We are thankful for a comparatively open ditch; deep; but
  covered with grass; through which the diahbeeah cut her path by sailing
  before a strong breeze; and we entered the lake at 11。20 a。m。 There is
  no change here since last year。 The steamer and fleet are close up; but
  there is a little deepening necessary at the mouth of the channel。 The
  diahbeeah went ahead for six miles along the lake and broad river; and
  anchored for the night。
  〃January 28。…With a light breeze; the diahbeeah sailed four miles; and
  stopped at the three dubbas; whence we turned back last year。 Even now
  there is only three feet and a half of water; and we shall have great
  trouble。 Our fisherman; Howarti; caught a great haul of fine boulti with
  the casting…net。
  〃January 29。…I shot some ducks and geese。 A slight shower fell in early
  morning。 I explored about seven miles of the river in advance。 The depth
  is very unsatisfactory; varying from shallows to deep channels。
  〃January 30。…The fleet joined in sections during last night and to…day。
  Set to work with the long…handled hoes; and cut a channel through the
  shallows for fifty yards; and took the vessels forward。
  〃January 31。…Cut a channel through the shallows; but we could not get
  the steamer along。
  〃February 1。…About 1;200 men at work cutting a channel and towing the
  steamer and noggurs through。 The diahbeeah and two noggurs passed ahead
  for about a mile。 We then stopped to await the steamer and other vessels
  that were delayed by the powerful current。
  〃February 2。…Stopped all day waiting for the steamer about a mile ahead
  of the noggurs。 When we left the dubba; I had left a letter in a bottle;
  addressed to Tayib Agha; to order him to come on without delay; and
  deepen the channels we have cut; should it be necessary。
  〃February 3。…The steamer came up at 10 a。m。 At 10。45 the diahbeeah made
  sail; and after two miles was delayed by a small sudd。 Care must be
  taken to sail by the west branch of the two streams; as there is no
  water in the east channel。
  〃For six miles we have had nothing but shallows。 Even at this season
  there is only a depth of four feet in many places; and a month hence the
  river will be impassable。
  〃Tayib Agha's boats are in sight; about four miles distance; bearing
  north。 We cut through the small sudd; and in a quarter of a mile; we
  arrived at an open water; very shallow: in many places only three feet
  deep。 Stopped for the fleet; and upon arrival of the steamer and others;
  I had marked out the channel to be cleared。 The men set to work
  immediately。 I then passed ahead with the diahbeeah for about a mile and
  a half; the depth of water; as usual; varying; but often as low as four
  feet。 We were at length stopped at the confluence of two channels; each
  shallow。 The sun was setting; therefore we halted for the night。 A
  buffalo crossed the river about 200 yards ahead。
  〃February 4。…I took the dingy early in the morning and explored both
  channels; that on the right has no water beyond a depth of about two
  feet。 The left is the true stream; but the depth in some places is only
  three feet; thus there is more work for the men upon their arrival。 Had
  we arrived here a month earlier; we could have just passed the shallows;
  as our vessels draw an average of a little over four feet。 No vessels
  should arrive here later than 1st of January; the entire river is a
  ridiculous imposition; a month later; the bed will be nearly dry。 A mile
  ahead; both channels are closed by a sudd of vegetation; we must thus
  await until the boats arrive。 Altogether the entire journey by the Bahr
  Giraffe is a painful absurdity; and my expedition will be fruitless in
  all but geographical results unless the authorities of the Soudan will
  clear the main channel of the White Nile。
  〃February 5。…None of the vessels arrived yesterday。 I went back and
  found them in a terrible fix; as the water is leaving us rapidly; and we
  must cut a fresh channel through the sand; about one hundred yards long。
  〃February 6。…I took the diahbeeah a mile and a quarter ahead to a sudd;
  passing over several shallows of only two feet eight inches; and three
  feet; which will again cause great delay and labour。 I returned to the
  fleet and assisted in the tedious work of dragging the vessels over the
  shallows。 In the evening I returned to the diahbeeah; and having dragged
  the dingy across the sudd; I explored the channel ahead for an hour; for
  about three miles; passed over distressing shallows for a space of a
  quarter of a mile ahead of the diahbeeah; after which I entered a deep;
  narrow channel with very rapid current。
  〃It is quite impossible to say where we are as the professed guides seem
  to know nothing of this horrible chaos; which changes its appearance
  constantly。 It is most harassing。
  〃February 7。…Last evening I brought the diahbeeah back to the fleet; so
  as to push the work forward personally。 The soldiers and officers hope
  we shall return as failures; in the same manner as last year。 I have;
  therefore; informed them and Raouf Bey officially; that no boats shall
  retreat; but that should the river run dry; they shall remain here until
  the rise of the water during the next wet season; when they shall go on
  to Wat…el…Shambi。 This decision has frightened them; and they are
  working to…day with better spirit。
  〃I unpacked and served out a hundred spades for digging channels; and I
  have ordered them to commence to…morrow morning and dig out a straight
  passage for the thirty one vessels that still remain in the shallows。
  〃February 8。…This is the date of departure last year from Khartoum; an
  inconceivable madness had any one known the character of the river。 All
  hands as usual tugging; hauling; and deepening the river with spades and
  hoes; but the more we dig; the faster the water runs out of the bed;
  which threatens to leave us high and dry。
  〃February 9…The work as usual。 All hands thoroughly disgusted。 I am
  obliged to lighten the vessels by discharging cargo in the mud。 Our
  waggons make excellent platforms for the luggage。 Even with this
  assistance we only drew seven vessels through the shallows into the true
  river channel。
  〃To…morrow we must discharge more cargo。
  〃The anxiety of leading 1;600 men; and fifty…eight vessels with heavy
  cargoes; through this horrible country is v