The　position　was　unpleasantly　exposed。　　One　or　two　carts　went　by
  upon　the　road；　and　as　long　as　daylight　lasted　I　concealed　myself；
  for　all　the　world　like　a　hunted　Camisard；　behind　my　fortification
  of　vast　chestnut　trunk；　for　I　was　passionately　afraid　of　discovery
  and　the　visit　of　jocular　persons　in　the　night。　　Moreover；　I　saw
  that　I　must　be　early　awake；　for　these　chestnut　gardens　had　been　the
  scene　of　industry　no　further　gone　than　on　the　day　before。　　The
  slope　was　strewn　with　lopped　branches；　and　here　and　there　a　great
  package　of　leaves　was　propped　against　a　trunk；　for　even　the　leaves
  are　serviceable；　and　the　peasants　use　them　in　winter　by　way　of
  fodder　for　their　animals。　　I　picked　a　meal　in　fear　and　trembling；
  half　lying　down　to　hide　myself　from　the　road；　and　I　daresay　I　was
  as　much　concerned　as　if　I　had　been　a　scout　from　Joani's　band　above
  upon　the　Lozere；　or　from　Salomon's　across　the　Tarn；　in　the　old
  times　of　psalm…singing　and　blood。　　Or；　indeed；　perhaps　more；　for
  the　Camisards　had　a　remarkable　confidence　in　God；　and　a　tale　comes
  back　into　my　memory　of　how　the　Count　of　Gevaudan；　riding　with　a
  party　of　dragoons　and　a　notary　at　his　saddlebow　to　enforce　the　oath
  of　fidelity　in　all　the　country　hamlets；　entered　a　valley　in　the
  woods；　and　found　Cavalier　and　his　men　at　dinner；　gaily　seated　on
  the　grass；　and　their　hats　crowned　with　box…tree　garlands；　while
  fifteen　women　washed　their　linen　in　the　stream。　　Such　was　a　field
  festival　in　1703；　at　that　date　Antony　Watteau　would　be　painting
  similar　subjects。
  This　was　a　very　different　camp　from　that　of　the　night　before　in　the
  cool　and　silent　pine…woods。　　It　was　warm　and　even　stifling　in　the
  valley。　　The　shrill　song　of　frogs；　like　the　tremolo　note　of　a
  whistle　with　a　pea　in　it；　rang　up　from　the　river…side　before　the
  sun　was　down。　　In　the　growing　dusk；　faint　rustlings　began　to　run　to
  and　fro　among　the　fallen　leaves；　from　time　to　time　a　faint　chirping
  or　cheeping　noise　would　fall　upon　my　ear；　and　from　time　to　time　I
  thought　I　could　see　the　movement　of　something　swift　and　indistinct
  between　the　chestnuts。　　A　profusion　of　large　ants　swarmed　upon　the
  ground；　bats　whisked　by；　and　mosquitoes　droned　overhead。　　The　long
  boughs　with　their　bunches　of　leaves　hung　against　the　sky　like
  garlands；　and　those　immediately　above　and　around　me　had　somewhat
  the　air　of　a　trellis　which　should　have　been　wrecked　and　half
  overthrown　in　a　gale　of　wind。
  Sleep　for　a　long　time　fled　my　eyelids；　and　just　as　I　was　beginning
  to　feel　quiet　stealing　over　my　limbs；　and　settling　densely　on　my
  mind；　a　noise　at　my　head　startled　me　broad　awake　again；　and；　I　will
  frankly　confess　it；　brought　my　heart　into　my　mouth。
  It　was　such　a　noise　as　a　person　would　make　scratching　loudly　with　a
  finger…nail；　it　came　from　under　the　knapsack　which　served　me　for　a
  pillow；　and　it　was　thrice　repeated　before　I　had　time　to　sit　up　and
  turn　about。　　Nothing　was　to　be　seen；　nothing　more　was　to　be　heard；
  but　a　few　of　these　mysterious　rustlings　far　and　near；　and　the
  ceaseless　accompaniment　of　the　river　and　the　frogs。　　I　learned　next
  day　that　the　chestnut　gardens　are　infested　by　rats；　rustling；
  chirping；　and　scraping　were　probably　all　due　to　these；　but　the
  puzzle；　for　the　moment；　was　insoluble；　and　I　had　to　compose　myself
  for　sleep；　as　best　I　could；　in　wondering　uncertainty　about　my
  neighbours。
  I　was　wakened　in　the　grey　of　the　morning　（Monday；　30th　September）
  by　the　sound　of　foot…steps　not　far　off　upon　the　stones；　and　opening
  my　eyes；　I　beheld　a　peasant　going　by　among　the　chestnuts　by　a
  footpath　that　I　had　not　hitherto　observed。　　He　turned　his　head
  neither　to　the　right　nor　to　the　left；　and　disappeared　in　a　few
  strides　among　the　foliage。　　Here　was　an　escape！　　But　it　was　plainly
  more　than　time　to　be　moving。　　The　peasantry　were　abroad；　scarce
  less　terrible　to　me　in　my　nondescript　position　than　the　soldiers　of
  Captain　Poul　to　an　undaunted　Camisard。　　I　fed　Modestine　with　what
  haste　I　could；　but　as　I　was　returning　to　my　sack；　I　saw　a　man　and　a
  boy　come　down　the　hillside　in　a　direction　crossing　mine。　　They
  unintelligibly　hailed　me；　and　I　replied　with　inarticulate　but
  cheerful　sounds；　and　hurried　forward　to　get　into　my　gaiters。
  The　pair；　who　seemed　to　be　father　and　son；　came　slowly　up　to　the
  plateau；　and　stood　close　beside　me　for　some　time　in　silence。　　The
  bed　was　open；　and　I　saw　with　regret　my　revolver　lying　patently
  disclosed　on　the　blue　wool。　　At　last；　after　they　had　looked　me　all
  over；　and　the　silence　had　grown　laughably　embarrassing；　the　man
  demanded　in　what　seemed　unfriendly　tones：
  'You　have　slept　here？'
  'Yes；'　said　I。　　'As　you　see。'
  'Why？'　he　asked。
  'My　faith；'　I　answered　lightly；　'I　was　tired。'
  He　next　inquired　where　I　was　going　and　what　I　had　had　for　dinner；
  and　then；　without　the　least　transition；　'C'EST　BIEN；'　he　added；
  'come　along。'　　And　he　and　his　son；　without　another　word；　turned　off
  to　the　next　chestnut…tree　but　one；　which　they　set　to　pruning。　　The
  thing　had　passed　of　more　simply　than　I　hoped。　　He　was　a　grave；
  respectable　man；　and　his　unfriendly　voice　did　not　imply　that　he
  thought　he　was　speaking　to　a　criminal；　but　merely　to　an　inferior。
  I　was　soon　on　the　road；　nibbling　a　cake　of　chocolate　and　seriously
  occupied　with　a　case　of　conscience。　　Was　I　to　pay　for　my　night's
  lodging？　　I　had　slept　ill；　the　bed　was　full　of　fleas　in　the　shape
  of　ants；　there　was　no　water　in　the　room；　the　very　dawn　had
  neglected　to　call　me　in　the　morning。　　I　might　have　missed　a　train；
  had　there　been　any　in　the　neighbourhood　to　catch。　　Clearly；　I　was
  dissatisfied　with　my　entertainment；　and　I　decided　I　should　not　pay
  unless　I　met　a　beggar。
  The　valley　looked　even　lovelier　by　morning；　and　soon　the　road
  descended　to　the　level　of　the　river。　　Here；　in　a　place　where　many
  straight　and　prosperous　chestnuts　stood　together；　making　an　aisle
  upon　a　swarded　terrace；　I　made　my　morning　toilette　in　the　water　of
  the　Tarn。　　It　was　marvellously　clear；　thrillingly　cool；　the　soap…
  suds　disappeared　as　if　by　magic　in　the　swift　current；　and　the　white
  boulders　gave　one　a　model　for　cleanliness。　　To　wash　in　one　of　God's
  rivers　in　the　open　air　seems　to　me　a　sort　of　cheerful　solemnity　or
  semi…pagan　act　of　worship。　　To　dabble　among　dishes　in　a　bedroom　may
  perhaps　make　clean　the　body；　but　the　imagination　takes　no　share　in
  such　a　cleansing。　　I　went　on　with　a　light　and　peaceful　heart；　and
  sang　psalms　to　the　spiritual　ear　as　I　advanced。
  Suddenly　up　came　an　old　woman；　who　point…blank　demanded　alms。
  'Good；'　thought　I；　'here　comes　the　waiter　with　the　bill。'
  And　I　paid　for　my　night's　lodging　on　the　spot。　　Take　it　how　you
  please；　but　this　was　the　first　and　the　last　beggar　that　I　met　with
  during　all　my　tour。
  A　step　or　two　farther　I　was　overtaken　by　an　old　man　in　a　brown
  nightcap；　clear…eyed；　weather…beaten；　with　a　faint　excited　smile。
  A　little　girl　followed　him；　driving　two　sheep　and　a　goat；　but　she
  kept　in　our　wake；　while　the　old　man　walked　beside　me　and　talked
  about　the　morning　and　the　valley。　　It　was　not　much　past　six；　and
  for　healthy　people　who　have　slept　enough；　that　is　an　hour　of
  expansion　and　of　open　and　trustful　talk。
  'CONNAISSEZ…VOUS　LE　SEIGNEUR？'　he　said　at　length。
  I　asked　him　what　Seigneur　he　meant；　but　he　only　repeated　the
  question　with　more　emphasis　and　a　look　in　his　eyes　denoting　hope
  and　interest。
  'Ah；'　said　I；　pointing　upwards；　'I　understand　you　now。　　Yes；　I　know
  Him；　He　is　the　best　of　acquaintances。'
  The　old　man　said　he　was　delighted。　　'Hold；'　he　added；　striking　his
  bosom；　'it　makes　me　happy　here。'　　There　were　a　few　who　knew　the
  Lord　in　these　valleys；　he　went　on　to　tell　me；　not　many；　but　a　few。
  'Many　are　called。'　he　quoted；　'and　few　chosen。'
  'My　father；'　said　I；　'it　is　not　easy　to　say　who　know　the　Lord；　and
  it　is　none　of　our　business。　　Protestants　and　Catholics；　and　even
  those　who　worship　stones；　may　know　Him　and　be　known　by　Him；　for　He
  has　made　all。'
  I　did　not　know　I　was　so　good　a　preacher。
  The　old　man　assured　me　he　thought　as　I　did；　and　repeated　his
  expressions　of　pleasure　at　meeting　me。　　'We　are　so　few；'　he　said。
  'They　call　us　Moravians　here；　but　down　in　the　Department　of　Gard；
  where　there　are　also　a　good　number；　they　are　called　Derbists；　after
  an　English　pastor。'
  I　began　to　understand　that　I　was　figuring；　in　questionable　taste；
  as　a　member　of　some　sect　to　me　unknown；　but　I　was　more　pleased　with
  the　pleasure　of　my　companion　than　embarrassed　by　my　own　equivocal
  position。　　Indeed；　I　can　see　no　dishonesty　in　not　avowing　a
  difference；　and　especially　in　these　high　matters；　where　we　have　all
  a　sufficient　assurance　that；　whoever　may　be　in　the　wrong；　we
  ourselves　are　not　completely　in　the　right。　　The　truth　is　much
  talked　about；　but　this　old　man　in　a　brown　nightcap　showed　himself
  so　simp