第 13 节
作者:
风格1 更新:2021-02-20 15:32 字数:9322
that the range of the Lozere; sparsely wooded and well enough
modelled in the flanks; but straight and dull in outline。 There
was scarce a sign of culture; only about Bleymard; the white high…
road from Villefort to Mende traversed a range of meadows; set with
spiry poplars; and sounding from side to side with the bells of
flocks and herds。
A NIGHT AMONG THE PINES
FROM Bleymard after dinner; although it was already late; I set out
to scale a portion of the Lozere。 An ill…marked stony drove…road
guided me forward; and I met nearly half…a…dozen bullock…carts
descending from the woods; each laden with a whole pine…tree for
the winter's firing。 At the top of the woods; which do not climb
very high upon this cold ridge; I struck leftward by a path among
the pines; until I hit on a dell of green turf; where a streamlet
made a little spout over some stones to serve me for a water…tap。
'In a more sacred or sequestered bower 。 。 。 nor nymph nor faunus
haunted。' The trees were not old; but they grew thickly round the
glade: there was no outlook; except north…eastward upon distant
hill…tops; or straight upward to the sky; and the encampment felt
secure and private like a room。 By the time I had made my
arrangements and fed Modestine; the day was already beginning to
decline。 I buckled myself to the knees into my sack and made a
hearty meal; and as soon as the sun went down; I pulled my cap over
my eyes and fell asleep。
Night is a dead monotonous period under a roof; but in the open
world it passes lightly; with its stars and dews and perfumes; and
the hours are marked by changes in the face of Nature。 What seems
a kind of temporal death to people choked between walls and
curtains; is only a light and living slumber to the man who sleeps
afield。 All night long he can hear Nature breathing deeply and
freely; even as she takes her rest; she turns and smiles; and there
is one stirring hour unknown to those who dwell in houses; when a
wakeful influence goes abroad over the sleeping hemisphere; and all
the outdoor world are on their feet。 It is then that the cock
first crows; not this time to announce the dawn; but like a
cheerful watchman speeding the course of night。 Cattle awake on
the meadows; sheep break their fast on dewy hillsides; and change
to a new lair among the ferns; and houseless men; who have lain
down with the fowls; open their dim eyes and behold the beauty of
the night。
At what inaudible summons; at what gentle touch of Nature; are all
these sleepers thus recalled in the same hour to life? Do the
stars rain down an influence; or do we share some thrill of mother
earth below our resting bodies? Even shepherds and old country…
folk; who are the deepest read in these arcana; have not a guess as
to the means or purpose of this nightly resurrection。 Towards two
in the morning they declare the thing takes place; and neither know
nor inquire further。 And at least it is a pleasant incident。 We
are disturbed in our slumber only; like the luxurious Montaigne;
'that we may the better and more sensibly relish it。' We have a
moment to look upon the stars。 And there is a special pleasure for
some minds in the reflection that we share the impulse with all
outdoor creatures in our neighbourhood; that we have escaped out of
the Bastille of civilisation; and are become; for the time being; a
mere kindly animal and a sheep of Nature's flock。
When that hour came to me among the pines; I wakened thirsty。 My
tin was standing by me half full of water。 I emptied it at a
draught; and feeling broad awake after this internal cold
aspersion; sat upright to make a cigarette。 The stars were clear;
coloured; and jewel…like; but not frosty。 A faint silvery vapour
stood for the Milky Way。 All around me the black fir…points stood
upright and stock…still。 By the whiteness of the pack…saddle; I
could see Modestine walking round and round at the length of her
tether; I could hear her steadily munching at the sward; but there
was not another sound; save the indescribable quiet talk of the
runnel over the stones。 I lay lazily smoking and studying the
colour of the sky; as we call the void of space; from where it
showed a reddish grey behind the pines to where it showed a glossy
blue…black between the stars。 As if to be more like a pedlar; I
wear a silver ring。 This I could see faintly shining as I raised
or lowered the cigarette; and at each whiff the inside of my hand
was illuminated; and became for a second the highest light in the
landscape。
A faint wind; more like a moving coolness than a stream of air;
passed down the glade from time to time; so that even in my great
chamber the air was being renewed all night long。 I thought with
horror of the inn at Chasserades and the congregated nightcaps;
with horror of the nocturnal prowesses of clerks and students; of
hot theatres and pass…keys and close rooms。 I have not often
enjoyed a more serene possession of myself; nor felt more
independent of material aids。 The outer world; from which we cower
into our houses; seemed after all a gentle habitable place; and
night after night a man's bed; it seemed; was laid and waiting for
him in the fields; where God keeps an open house。 I thought I had
rediscovered one of those truths which are revealed to savages and
hid from political economists: at the least; I had discovered a
new pleasure for myself。 And yet even while I was exulting in my
solitude I became aware of a strange lack。 I wished a companion to
lie near me in the starlight; silent and not moving; but ever
within touch。 For there is a fellowship more quiet even than
solitude; and which; rightly understood; is solitude made perfect。
And to live out of doors with the woman a man loves is of all lives
the most complete and free。
As I thus lay; between content and longing; a faint noise stole
towards me through the pines。 I thought; at first; it was the
crowing of cocks or the barking of dogs at some very distant farm;
but steadily and gradually it took articulate shape in my ears;
until I became aware that a passenger was going by upon the high…
road in the valley; and singing loudly as he went。 There was more
of good…will than grace in his performance; but he trolled with
ample lungs; and the sound of his voice took hold upon the hillside
and set the air shaking in the leafy glens。 I have heard people
passing by night in sleeping cities; some of them sang; one; I
remember; played loudly on the bagpipes。 I have heard the rattle
of a cart or carriage spring up suddenly after hours of stillness;
and pass; for some minutes; within the range of my hearing as I lay
abed。 There is a romance about all who are abroad in the black
hours; and with something of a thrill we try to guess their
business。 But here the romance was double: first; this glad
passenger; lit internally with wine; who sent up his voice in music
through the night; and then I; on the other hand; buckled into my
sack; and smoking alone in the pine…woods between four and five
thousand feet towards the stars。
When I awoke again (Sunday; 29th September); many of the stars had
disappeared; only the stronger companions of the night still burned
visibly overhead; and away towards the east I saw a faint haze of
light upon the horizon; such as had been the Milky Way when I was
last awake。 Day was at hand。 I lit my lantern; and by its glow…
worm light put on my boots and gaiters; then I broke up some bread
for Modestine; filled my can at the water…tap; and lit my spirit…
lamp to boil myself some chocolate。 The blue darkness lay long in
the glade where I had so sweetly slumbered; but soon there was a
broad streak of orange melting into gold along the mountain…tops of
Vivarais。 A solemn glee possessed my mind at this gradual and
lovely coming in of day。 I heard the runnel with delight; I looked
round me for something beautiful and unexpected; but the still
black pine…trees; the hollow glade; the munching ass; remained
unchanged in figure。 Nothing had altered but the light; and that;
indeed; shed over all a spirit of life and of breathing peace; and
moved me to a strange exhilaration。
I drank my water…chocolate; which was hot if it was not rich; and
strolled here and there; and up and down about the glade。 While I
was thus delaying; a gush of steady wind; as long as a heavy sigh;
poured direct out of the quarter of the morning。 It was cold; and
set me sneezing。 The trees near at hand tossed their black plumes
in its passage; and I could see the thin distant spires of pine
along the edge of the hill rock slightly to and fro against the
golden east。 Ten minutes after; the sunlight spread at a gallop
along the hillside; scattering shadows and sparkle