第 28 节
作者:
敏儿不觉 更新:2021-02-19 21:45 字数:9322
no one can form an idea of anything equal to it on shore。 We
were seated on the deck; women and all; in the serenest evening
that can be imagined。 Not a single cloud presented itself to our
view; and the sun himself was the only object which engrossed our
whole attention。 He did indeed set with a majesty which is
incapable of description; with which; while the horizon was yet
blazing with glory; our eyes were called off to the opposite part
to survey the moon; which was then at full; and which in rising
presented us with the second object that this world hath offered
to our vision。 Compared to these the pageantry of theaters; or
splendor of courts; are sights almost below the regard of
children。 We did not return from the deck till late in the
evening; the weather being inexpressibly pleasant; and so warm
that even my old distemper perceived the alteration of the
climate。 There was indeed a swell; but nothing comparable to
what we had felt before; and it affected us on the deck much less
than in the cabin。
Friday。The calm continued till sun…rising; when the wind
likewise arose; but unluckily for us it came from a wrong
quarter; it was S。S。E。; which is that very wind which Juno would
have solicited of Aeolus; had Gneas been in our latitude bound
for Lisbon。
The captain now put on his most melancholy aspect; and resumed
his former opinion that he was bewitched。 He declared with great
solemnity that this was worse and worse; for that a wind directly
in his teeth was worse than no wind at all。 Had we pursued the
course which the wind persuaded us to take we had gone directly
for Newfoundland; if we had not fallen in with Ireland in our
way。 Two ways remained to avoid this; one was to put into a port
of Galicia; the other; to beat to the westward with as little
sail as possible: and this was our captain's election。
As for us; poor passengers; any port would have been welcome to
us; especially; as not only our fresh provisions; except a great
number of old ducks and fowls; but even our bread was come to an
end; and nothing but sea…biscuit remained; which I could not
chew。 So that now for the first time in my life I saw what it
was to want a bit of bread。
The wind however was not so unkind as we had apprehended; but;
having declined with the sun; it changed at the approach of the
moon; and became again favorable to us; though so gentle that the
next day's observation carried us very little to the southward of
Cape Finisterre。 This evening at six the wind; which had been
very quiet all day; rose very high; and continuing in our favor
drove us seven knots an hour。
This day we saw a sail; the only one; as I heard of; we had seen
in our whole passage through the bay。 I mention this on account
of what appeared to me somewhat extraordinary。 Though she was at
such a distance that I could only perceive she was a ship; the
sailors discovered that she was a snow; bound to a port in Galicia。
Sunday。After prayers; which our good captain read on the deck
with an audible voice; and with but one mistake; of a lion for
Elias; in the second lesson for this day; we found ourselves far
advanced in 42 degrees; and the captain declared we should sup
off Porte。 We had not much wind this day; but; as this was
directly in our favor; we made it up with sail; of which we
crowded all we had。 We went only at the rate of four miles an
hour; but with so uneasy a motion; continuing rolling from side
to side; that I suffered more than I had done in our whole
voyage; my bowels being almost twisted out of my belly。 However;
the day was very serene and bright; and the captain; who was in
high spirits; affirmed he had never passed a pleasanter at sea。
The wind continued so brisk that we ran upward of six knots an
hour the whole night。
Monday。In the morning our captain concluded that he was got
into lat。 40 degrees; and was very little short of the
Burlings; as they are called in the charts。 We came up with them
at five in the afternoon; being the first land we had distinctly
seen since we left Devonshire。 They consist of abundance of
little rocky islands; a little distant from the shore; three of
them only showing themselves above the water。
Here the Portuguese maintain a kind of garrison; if we may allow
it that name。 It consists of malefactors; who are banished
hither for a term; for divers small offensesa policy which they
may have copied from the Egyptians; as we may read in Diodorus
Siculus。 That wise people; to prevent the corruption of good
manners by evil communication; built a town on the Red Sea;
whither they transported a great number of their criminals;
having first set an indelible mark on them; to prevent their
returning and mixing with the sober part of their citizens。
These rocks lie about fifteen leagues northwest of Cape Roxent;
or; as it is commonly called; the Rock of Lisbon; which we passed
early the next morning。 The wind; indeed; would have carried us
thither sooner; but the captain was not in a hurry; as he was to
lose nothing by his delay。
Tuesday。This is a very high mountain; situated on the northern
side of the mouth of the river Tajo; which; rising about Madrid;
in Spain; and soon becoming navigable for small craft; empties
itself; after a long course; into the sea; about four leagues
below Lisbon。
On the summit of the rock stands a hermitage; which is now in the
possession of an Englishman; who was formerly master of a vessel
trading to Lisbon; and; having changed his religion and his
manners; the latter of which; at least; were none of the best;
betook himself to this place; in order to do penance for his
sins。 He is now very old; and hath inhabited this hermitage for
a great number of years; during which he hath received some
countenance from the royal family; and particularly from the
present queen dowager; whose piety refuses no trouble or expense
by which she may make a proselyte; being used to say that the
saving one soul would repay all the endeavors of her life。 Here
we waited for the tide; and had the pleasure of surveying the
face of the country; the soil of which; at this season; exactly
resembles an old brick…kiln; or a field where the green sward is
pared up and set a…burning; or rather a smoking; in little heaps
to manure the land。 This sight will; perhaps; of all others;
make an Englishman proud of; and pleased with; his own country;
which in verdure excels; I believe; every other country。 Another
deficiency here is the want of large trees; nothing above a shrub
being here to be discovered in the circumference of many miles。
At this place we took a pilot on board; who; being the first
Portuguese we spoke to; gave us an instance of that religious
observance which is paid by all nations to their laws; for;
whereas it is here a capital offense to assist any person in
going on shore from a foreign vessel before it hath been
examined; and every person in it viewed by the magistrates of
health; as they are called; this worthy pilot; for a very small
reward; rowed the Portuguese priest to shore at this place;
beyond which he did not dare to advance; and in venturing whither
he had given sufficient testimony of love for his native country。
We did not enter the Tajo till noon; when; after passing several
old castles and other buildings which had greatly the aspect of
ruins; we came to the castle of Bellisle; where we had a full
prospect of Lisbon; and were; indeed; within three miles of it。
Here we were saluted with a gun; which was a signal to pass no
farther till we had complied with certain ceremonies which the
laws of this country require to be observed by all ships which
arrive in this port。 We were obliged then to cast anchor; and
expect the arrival of the officers of the customs; without whose
passport no ship must proceed farther than this place。
Here likewise we received a visit from one of those magistrates
of health before mentioned。 He refused to come on board the ship
till every person in her had been drawn up on deck and personally
viewed by him。 This occasioned some delay on my part; as it was
not the work of a minute to lift me from the cabin to the deck。
The captain thought my particular case might have been excused
from this ceremony; and that it would be abundantly sufficient if
the magistrate; who was obliged afterwards to visit the cabin;
surveyed me there。 But this did not satisfy the magistrate's
strict regard to his duty。 When he was told of my lameness; he
called out; with a voice of authority; 〃Let him be brought up;〃
and his orders were presently complied with。 He was; indeed; a
person of great dignity; as well as of the most exact fidelity in
the discharge of his trust。 Both which are the more admirable as
his salary is less than thirty pounds English per annum。
Before a ship hath been visited by o