第 39 节
作者:开了      更新:2021-02-19 01:06      字数:9322
  society; and are apt to be involved in bitter strife among
  themselves。
  Why; you ask; should Americans quarrel among themselves?
  Some years ago I was passing the summer months on the Rhine at a
  tiny German watering…place; principally frequented by English; who
  were all living together in great peace and harmony; until one
  fatal day; when an Earl appeared。  He was a poor Irish Earl; very
  simple and unoffending; but he brought war into that town; heart…
  burnings; envy; and backbiting。  The English colony at once divided
  itself into two camps; those who knew the Earl and those who did
  not。  And peace fled from our little society。  You will find in
  every foreign capital among the resident Americans; just such a
  state of affairs as convulsed that German spa。  The native 〃swells〃
  have come to be the apple of discord that divides our good people
  among themselves。  Those who have been successful in knowing the
  foreigners avoid their compatriots and live with their new friends;
  while the other group who; from laziness; disinclination; or
  principle (?) have remained true to their American circle; cannot
  resist calling the others snobs; and laughing (a bit enviously;
  perhaps) at their upward struggles。
  It is the same in Florence。  The little there was left of an
  American society went to pieces on that rock。  Our parents forty
  years ago seem to me to have been much more self…respecting and
  sensible。  They knew perfectly well that there was nothing in
  common between themselves and the Italian nobility; and that those
  good people were not going to put themselves out to make the
  acquaintance of a lot of strangers; mostly of another religion;
  unless it was to be materially to their advantage。  So they left
  them quietly alone。  I do not pretend to judge any one's motives;
  but confess I cannot help regarding with suspicion a foreigner who
  leaves his own circle to mingle with strangers。  It resembles too
  closely the amiabilities of the wolf for the lamb; or the sudden
  politeness of a school…boy to a little girl who has received a box
  of candies。
  CHAPTER 37 … The Newport of the Past
  FEW of the 〃carriage ladies and gentlemen〃 who disport themselves
  in Newport during the summer months; yachting and dancing through
  the short season; then flitting away to fresh fields and pastures
  new; realize that their daintily shod feet have been treading
  historic ground; or care to cast a thought back to the past。  Oddly
  enough; to the majority of people the past is a volume rarely
  opened。  Not that it bores them to read it; but because they; like
  children; want some one to turn over its yellow leaves and point
  out the pictures to them。  Few of the human motes that dance in the
  rays of the afternoon sun as they slant across the little Park;
  think of the fable which asserts that a sea…worn band of
  adventurous men; centuries before the Cabots or the Genoese
  discoverer thought of crossing the Atlantic; had pushed bravely out
  over untried seas and landed on this rocky coast。  Yet one apparent
  evidence of their stay tempts our thoughts back to the times when
  it is said to have been built as a bower for a king's daughter。
  Longfellow; in the swinging verse of his 〃Skeleton in Armor;〃
  breathing of the sea and the Norseman's fatal love; has thrown such
  a glamour of poetry around the tower; that one would fain believe
  all he relates。  The hardy Norsemen; if they ever came here;
  succumbed in their struggle with the native tribes; or; discouraged
  by death and hardships; sailed away; leaving the clouds of oblivion
  to close again darkly around this continent; and the fog of
  discussion to circle around the 〃Old Mill。〃
  The little settlement of another race; speaking another tongue;
  that centuries later sprang up in the shadow of the tower; quickly
  grew into a busy and prosperous city; which; like New York; its
  rival; was captured and held by the English。  To walk now through
  some of its quaint; narrow streets is to step back into
  Revolutionary days。  Hardly a house has changed since the time when
  the red coats of the British officers brightened the prim
  perspectives; and turned loyal young heads as they passed。
  At the corner of Spring and Pelham Streets; still stands the
  residence of General Prescott; who was carried away prisoner by his
  opponents; they having rowed down in whale…boats from Providence
  for the attack。  Rochambeau; our French ally; lodged lower down in
  Mary Street。  In the tower of Trinity; one can read the epitaph of
  the unfortunate Chevalier de Ternay; commander of the sea forces;
  whose body lies near by。  Many years later his relative; the Duc de
  Noailles; when Minister to this country; had this simple tablet
  repaired and made a visit to the spot。
  A long period of prosperity followed the Revolution; during which
  Newport grew and flourished。  Our pious and God…fearing 〃forbears;〃
  having secured personal and religious liberty; proceeded to
  inaugurate a most successful and remunerative trade in rum and
  slaves。  It was a triangular transaction and yielded a three…fold
  profit。  The simple population of that day; numbering less than ten
  thousand souls; possessed twenty distilleries; finding it a
  physical impossibility to drink ALL the rum; they conceived the
  happy thought of sending the surplus across to the coast of Africa;
  where it appears to have been much appreciated by the native
  chiefs; who eagerly exchanged the pick of their loyal subjects for
  that liquid。  These poor brutes were taken to the West Indies and
  exchanged for sugar; laden with which; the vessels returned to
  Newport。
  Having introduced the dusky chieftains to the charms of delirium
  tremens and their subjects to life…long slavery; one can almost see
  these pious deacons proceeding to church to offer up thanks for the
  return of their successful vessels。  Alas! even 〃the best laid
  schemes of mice and men〃 come to an end。  The War of 1812; the
  opening of the Erie Canal and sundry railways struck a blow at
  Newport commerce; from which it never recovered。  The city sank
  into oblivion; and for over thirty years not a house was built
  there。
  It was not until near 1840 that the Middletons and Izzards and
  other wealthy and aristocratic Southern families were tempted to
  Newport by the climate and the facilities it offered for bathing;
  shooting and boating。  A boarding…house or two sufficed for the
  modest wants of the new…comers; first among which stood the
  Aquidneck; presided over by kind Mrs。 Murray。  It was not until
  some years later; when New York and Boston families began to
  appreciate the place; that the first hotels were built; … the
  Atlantic on the square facing the old mill; the Bellevue and
  Fillmore on Catherine Street; and finally the original Ocean House;
  destroyed by fire in 1845 and rebuilt as we see it to…day。  The
  croakers of the epoch considered it much too far out of town to be
  successful; for at its door the open fields began; a gate there
  separating the town from the country across which a straggling;
  half…made road; closed by innumerable gates; led along the cliffs
  and out across what is now the Ocean Drive。  The principal roads at
  that time led inland; any one wishing to drive seaward had to
  descend every two or three minutes to open a gate。  The youth of
  the day discovered a source of income in opening and closing these
  for pennies。
  Fashion had decreed that the correct hour for dancing was 11 A。M。;
  and MATINEES DANSANTES were regularly given at the hotels; our
  grandmothers appearing in DECOLLETE muslin frocks adorned with
  broad sashes; and disporting themselves gayly until the dinner
  hour。  Low…neck dresses were the rule; not only for these informal
  entertainments; but as every…day wear for young girls; … an old
  lady only the other day telling me she had never worn a 〃high…body〃
  until after her marriage。  Two o'clock found all the beauties and
  beaux dining。  How incredulously they would have laughed if any one
  had prophesied that their grandchildren would prefer eight forty…
  five as a dinner hour!
  The opening of Bellevue Avenue marked another epoch in the history
  of Newport。  About that time Governor Lawrence bought the whole of
  Ochre Point farm for fourteen thousand dollars; and Mr。 de Rham
  built on the newly opened road the first 〃cottage;〃 which stands
  to…day modestly back from the avenue opposite Perry Street。  If
  houses have souls; as Hawthorne averred; and can remember and
  compare; what curious thoughts must pass through the oaken brain of
  this simple construction as it sees its marble neighbors rearing
  their vast facades among trees。  The trees; too; are an innovation;
  for when the de Rham cottage was built and Mrs。 Cleveland opened
  her new house at the extreme end of Rough Point (the second sum