第 4 节
作者:莫莫言      更新:2021-02-18 23:42      字数:9321
  town   where   the   authorities   cannot   rest   until   they   have   destroyed   every
  precious tree within their blighting reach; you will be especially charmed
  by   the   beauty   of   the   streets   of   Portsmouth。   In   some   parts   of   the   town;
  when the chestnuts are in blossom; you would fancy yourself in a garden
  in fairyland。      In spring; summer; and autumn the foliage is the glory of
  the fair townher luxuriant green and golden treeses! Nothing could seem
  more like the work of enchantment than the spectacle which certain streets
  in Portsmouth present in the midwinter after a heavy snowstorm。 You may
  walk for miles under wonderful silvery arches formed by the overhanging
  and   interlaced   boughs   of   the   trees;   festooned   with   a   drapery   even   more
  graceful   and dazzling   than   springtime   gives them。           The   numerous   elms
  and maples which shade the principal thoroughfares are not the result of
  chance; but the ample reward of the loving care that is taken to preserve
  the trees。     There is a society in Portsmouth devoted to arboriculture。 It is
  not unusual there for persons to leave legacies to be expended in setting
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  out    shade    and    ornamental       trees   along    some    favorite    walk。     Richards
  Avenue;   a   long;   unbuilt   thoroughfare   leading   from   Middle   Street   to   the
  South   Burying…Ground;   perpetuates   the   name   of   a   citizen   who   gave   the
  labor  of   his   own   hands   to   the  beautifying   of   that   windswept   and   barren
  road the cemetery。 This fondness and care for trees seems to be a matter of
  heredity。      So   far   back   as   1660   the   selectmen   instituted   a   fine   of   five
  shillings   for   the   cutting   of   timber   or   any   other   wood   from   off   the   town
  common; excepting under special conditions。
  In the business section of the town trees are few。                   The chief business
  streets are Congress and Market。                Market Street is the stronghold of the
  dry…goods   shops。         There   are   seasons;   I   suppose;   when   these   shops   are
  crowded; but I have never happened to be in Portsmouth at the time。                               I
  seldom   pass   through   the   narrow   cobble…paved   street   without   wondering
  where      the   customers       are   that   must     keep    all  these    flourishing      little
  establishments going。 Congress Streeta more elegant thoroughfare  than
  Marketis   the   Nevski   Prospekt   of   Portsmouth。              Among   the   prominent
  buildings is the Athenaeum; containing a reading…room and library。                          From
  the high roof of this building the stroller will do well to take a glance at
  the   surrounding   country。         He   will   naturally   turn   seaward   for   the   more
  picturesque   aspects。   If   the   day   is   clear;   he   will   see   the   famous   Isle   of
  Shoals;      lying   nine    miles    awayAppledore;          Smutty…Nose;        Star   Island;
  White      Island;    etc。;  there   are   nine    of  them     in  all。   On     Appledore       is
  Laighton's Hotel; and near it the summer cottage of Celia Thaxter; the poet
  of   the   Isles。   On   the   northern   end   of   Star   Island   is   the   quaint   town   of
  Gosport;   with   a   tiny   stone   church   perched   like   a   sea…gull   on   its   highest
  rock。     A mile southwest form Star Island lies White Island; on which is a
  lighthouse。   Mrs。   Thaxter   calls   this   the   most   picturesque   of   the   group。
  Perilous   neighbors;   O   mariner!   in         any   but   the   serenest   weather;   these
  wrinkled;      scarred;    are   storm…smitten       rocks;    flanked    by   wicked     sunken
  ledges that grow white at the lip with rage when the great winds blow!
  How   peaceful   it   all looks off   there;   on   the   smooth   emerald sea!   and
  how softly the waves seem to break on yonder point where the unfinished
  fort   is!    That   is   the   ancient   town   of   Newcastle;   to   reach   which   from
  Portsmouth   you   have   to   cross   three   bridges   with   the   most   enchanting
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  scenery in New Hampshire lying on either hand。                  At Newcastle the poet
  Stedman has built for his summerings an enviable little stone chateaua
  seashell into which I fancy the sirens creep to warm themselves during the
  winter months。       So it is never without its singer。
  Opposite      Newcastle     is  Kittery   Point;   a   romantic    spot;   where    Sir
  William Pepperell; the first American baronet; once lived; and where his
  tomb now is; in his orchard across the road; a few hundred yards from the
  〃goodly mansion〃 he built。 The knight's tomb and the old Pepperell House;
  which has been somewhat curtailed of it fair proportions; are the objects of
  frequent pilgrimages to Kittery Point。
  From the elevation (the roof of the Athenaeun) the navy yard; the river
  with its bridges and islands; the clustered gables of Kittery and Newcastle;
  the illimitable ocean beyond make a picture worth climbing four or five
  flights of stairs to gaze upon。 Glancing down on the town nestled in the
  foliage; it seems like a town dropped by chance in the midst of a forest。
  Among the prominent objects which lift themselves above the tree tops are
  the belfries of the various churches; the white fa 鏰 de of the custom house;
  and   the   mansard   and   chimneys   of   the   Rockingham;   the   principal   hotel。
  The    pilgrim   will   be   surprised   to  find   in  Portsmouth     one   of   the  most
  completely appointed hotels in the   United   States。             The   antiquarian   may
  lament the demolition of the old Bell Tavern; and think regretfully of the
  good cheer once furnished the wayfarer by Master Stavers at the sign of
  the Earl of Halifax; and by Master Stoodley at his inn on Daniel Street; but
  the ordinary traveler will thank his stars; and confess that his lines have
  fallen in pleasant places; when he finds himself among the frescoes of the
  Rockingham。
  Obliquely opposite the doorstep of the Athenaeumwe are supposed to
  be    on  terra   firma   againstands     the   Old   North    Church;     a  substantial
  wooden   building;   handsomely   set   on   what   is   called   The   Parade;   a   large
  open     space   formed    by   the  junction    of  Congress;     Market;    Daniel;   and
  Pleasant   streets。   Here   in   days   innocent   of   water…works   stood   the   town
  pump; which on more than one occasion served as whipping…post。
  The   churches   of   Portsmouth   are   more   remarkable   for   their   number
  than their   architecture。 With   the   exception   of   the   Stone   Church   they  are
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  constructed      of  wood     or  plain   brick   in  the   simplest    style。   St。   John's
  Church is the only one likely to attract the eye of a stranger。                 It is finely
  situated on the crest of Church Hill; overlooking the ever…beautiful river。
  The present edifice was built in 1808 on the site of what was known as
  Queen's   Chapel;   erected   in   1732;   and   destroyed   by   fire   December   24;
  1806。 The chapel was named in honor of Queen Caroline; who furnished
  the books for the altar and pulpit; the plate; and two solid mahogany chairs;
  which are still in use in St。 John's。           Within the chancel rail is a curious
  font of porphyry; taken by Colonel John Tufton Mason at the capture of
  Senegal from the French in 1758; and presented to the Episcopal Society
  on 1761。 The peculiarly sweet…toned bell which calls the parishioners of St。
  John's together every Sabbath is; I believe; the same that formerly hung in
  the belfry of the old Queen's Chapel。 If so; the bell has a history of its own。
  It was brought from Louisburg at the time of the reduction of that place in
  1745;   and   given   to   the   church   by   the   officers   of   the   New   Hampshire
  troops。
  The Old South Meeting…House is not to be passed without mention。 It
  is   among   the   most   aged   survivals   of   pre…revolutionary   days。   Neither   its
  architecture not its age; however; is its chief warrant for our notice。                  The
  absurd number of windows in this battered old structure is what strikes the
  passer…by。 The church was erected by subscription; and these closely  set
  large windows are due to Henry Sherburne; one of the wealthiest citiz