第 18 节
作者:
两块 更新:2021-02-18 22:15 字数:9322
A man who entertains in this wayand; alas; how few do
not!is like a fellow who would borrow his neighbour's
coat to make a show in; or a lady who flaunts in the
diamonds from next doora humbug; in a word; and amongst
the Snobs he must be set down。
A man who goes out of his natural sphere of society to
ask Lords; Generals; Aldermen; and other persons of
fashion; but is niggardly of his hospitality towards his
own equals; is a Dinner…giving Snob。 My dear friend;
Jack Tufthunt; for example; knows ONE Lord whom he met at
a watering…place: old Lord Mumble; who is as toothless as
a three…months…old baby; and as mum as an undertaker; and
as dull aswell; we will not particularise。 Tufthunt
never has a dinner now but you see this solemn old
toothless patrician at the right…hand of Mrs。 Tufthunt
Tufthunt is a Dinner…giving Snob。
Old Livermore; old Soy; old Chutney; the East Indian
Director; old Cutler; the Surgeon; &c。;that society of
old fogies; in fine; who give each other dinners round
and round; and dine for the mere purpose of guttling
these; again; are Dinner…giving Snobs。
Again; my friend Lady MacScrew; who has three grenadier
flunkeys in lace round the table; and serves up a scrag…
of…mutton on silver; and dribbles you out bad sherry and
port by thimblefuls; is a Dinner…giving Snob of the other
sort; and I confess; for my part; I would rather dine
with old Livermore or old Soy than with her Ladyship。
Stinginess is snobbish。 Ostentation is snobbish。 Too
great profusion is snobbish。 Tuft…hunting is snobbish。
But I own there are people more snobbish than all those
whose defects are above mentioned: viz。; those
individuals who can; and don't give dinners at all。 The
man without hospitality shall never sit SUB IISDEM
TRABIBUS with ME。 Let the sordid wretch go mumble his
bone alone!
What; again; is true hospitality? Alas; my dear friends
and brother Snobs! how little do we meet of it after all!
Are the motives PURE which induce your friends to ask you
to dinner? This has often come across me。 Does your
entertainer want something from you? For instance; I am
not of a suspicious turn; but it IS a fact that when
Hookey is bringing out a new work; he asks the critics
all round to dinner; that when Walker has got his picture
ready for the Exhibition; he somehow grows exceedingly
hospitable; and has his friends of the press to a quiet
cutlet and a glass of Sillery。 Old Hunks; the miser; who
died lately (leaving his money to his housekeeper) lived
many years on the fat of the land; by simply taking down;
at all his friends'; the names and Christian names OF ALL
THE CHILDREN。 But though you may have your own opinion
about the hospitality of your acquaintances; and though
men who ask you from sordid motives are most decidedly
Dinner…giving Snobs; it is best not to inquire into their
motives too keenly。 Be not too curious about the mouth
of a gift…horse。 After all; a man does not intend to
insult you by asking you to dinner。
Though; for that matter; I know some characters about
town who actually consider themselves injured and
insulted if the dinner or the company is not to their
liking。 There is Guttleton; who dines at home off a
shilling's…worth of beef from the cookshop; but if he is
asked to dine at a house where there are not pease at the
end of May; or cucumbers in March along with the turbot;
thinks himself insulted by being invited。 'Good Ged!'
says he; 'what the deuce do the Forkers mean by asking ME
to a family dinner? I can get mutton at home;' or 'What
infernal impertinence it is of the Spooners to get
ENTREES from the pastrycook's; and fancy that I am to be
deceived with their stories about their French cook!'
Then; again; there is Jack PuddingtonI saw that honest
fellow t'other day quite in a rage; because; as chance
would have it; Sir John Carver asked him to meet the very
same party he had met at Colonel Cramley's the day
before; and he had not got up a new set of stories to
entertain them。 Poor Dinner…giving Snobs! you don't know
what small thanks you get for all your pains and money!
How we Dining…out Snobs sneer at your cookery; and pooh…
pooh your old hock; and are incredulous about your four…
and…six…penny champagne; and know that the side…dishes of
to…day are RECHAUFFES from the dinner of yesterday; and
mark how certain dishes are whisked off the table
untasted; so that they may figure at the banquet
tomorrow。 Whenever; for my part; I see the head man
particularly anxious to ESCAMOTER a fricandeau or a
blanc…mange; I always call out; and insist upon
massacring it with a spoon。 All this sort of conduct
makes one popular with the Dinner…giving Snob。 One
friend of mine; I know; has made a prodigious sensation
in good society; by announcing apropos of certain dishes
when offered to him; that he never eats aspic except at
Lord Tittup's; and that Lady Jimmy's CHEF is the only man
in London who knows how to dressFILET EN SERPENTEAUor
SUPREME DE VOLAILLE AUX TRUFFES。
CHAPTER XX
DINNER…GIVING SNOBS FURTHER CONSIDERED
If my friends would but follow the present prevailing
fashion; I think they ought to give me a testimonial for
the paper on Dinner…giving Snobs; which I am now writing。
What do you say now to a handsome comfortable dinner…
service of plate (NOT including plates; for I hold silver
plates to be sheer wantonness; and would almost as soon
think of silver teacups); a couple of neat teapots; a
coffeepot; trays; &c。; with a little inscription to my
wife; Mrs。 Snob; and a half…score of silver tankards for
the little Snoblings; to glitter on the homely table
where they partake of their quotidian mutton?
If I had my way; and my plans could be carried out;
dinner…giving would increase as much on the one hand as
dinner…giving Snobbishness would diminish:to my mind
the most amiable part of the work lately published by my
esteemed friend (if upon a very brief acquaintance he
will allow me to call him so); Alexis Soyer; the
regeneratorwhat he (in his noble style) would call the
most succulent; savoury; and elegant passagesare those
which relate; not to the grand banquets and ceremonial
dinners; but to his 'dinners at home。'
The 'dinner at home' ought to be the centre of the whole
system of dinner…giving。 Your usual style of mealthat
is; plenteous; comfortable; and in its perfectionshould
be that to which you welcome your friends; as it is that
of which you partake yourself。
For; towards what woman in the world do I entertain a
higher regard than towards the beloved partner of my
existence; Mrs。 Snob? Who should have a greater place in
my affections than her six brothers (three or four of
whom we are pretty sure will favour us with their company
at seven o'clock); or her angelic mother; my own valued
mother…in…law?for whom; finally; would I wish to cater
more generously than for your very humble servant; the
present writer? Now; nobody supposes that the Birmingham
plate is had out; the disguised carpet…beaters introduced
to the exclusion of the neat parlour…maid; the miserable
ENTREES from the pastrycook's ordered in; and the
children packed off (as it is supposed) to the nursery;
but really only to the staircase; down which they slide
during the dinner…time; waylaying the dishes as they come
out; and fingering the round bumps on the jellies; and
the forced…meat balls in the soup;nobody; I say;
supposes that a dinner at home is characterized by the
horrible ceremony; the foolish makeshifts; the mean pomp
and ostentation which distinguish our banquets on grand
field…days。
Such a notion is monstrous。 I would as soon think of
having my dearest Bessy sitting opposite me in a turban
and bird of paradise; and showing her jolly mottled arms
out of blond sleeves in her famous red satin gown: ay; or
of having Mr。 Toole every day; in a white waistcoat; at
my back; shouting; 'Silence FAW the chair!'
Now; if this be the case; if the Brummagem…plate pomp and
the processions of disguised footmen are odious and
foolish in everyday life; why not always? Why should
Jones and I; who are in the middle rank; alter the modes
of our being to assume an ECLAT which does not belong to
usto entertain our friends; who (if we are worth
anything and honest fellows at bottom;) are men of the
middle rank too; who are not in the least deceived by our
temporary splendour; and who play off exactly the same
absurd trick upon us when they ask us to dine?
If it be pleasant to dine with your friends; as all
persons with good stomachs and kindly hearts will; I
presume; allow it to be; it is better to dine twice than
to dine once。 It is impossible for men of small means to
be continually spending five…and…twenty or thirty
shillings on each friend who sits down to their table。
People dine for less。 I my