from　the　northern　border　of　Urianhai　with　us。　　We　first　unburdened　it　but　this　did　not　help；　no　more　did　our　shouting　and　threats。　　He　only　stood　with　his　head　down　and　looked　so　exhausted　that　we　realized　he　had　reached　the　further　bourne　of　his　land　of　toil。　　Some　Soyots　with　us　examined　him；　felt　of　his　muscles　on　the　fore　and　hind　legs；　took　his　head　in　their　hands　and　moved　it　from　side　to　side；　examined　his　head　carefully　after　that　and　then　said：
  〃That　horse　will　not　go　further。　　His　brain　is　dried　out。〃　　So　we　had　to　leave　him。
  That　evening　we　came　to　a　beautiful　change　in　scene　when　we　topped　a　rise　and　found　ourselves　on　a　broad　plateau　covered　with　larch。　On　it　we　discovered　the　yurtas　of　some　Soyot　hunters；　covered　with　bark　instead　of　the　usual　felt。　　Out　of　these　ten　men　with　rifles　rushed　toward　us　as　we　approached。　　They　informed　us　that　the　Prince　of　Soldjak　did　not　allow　anyone　to　pass　this　way；　as　he　feared　the　coming　of　murderers　and　robbers　into　his　dominions。
  〃Go　back　to　the　place　from　which　you　came；〃　they　advised　us　with　fear　in　their　eyes。
  I　did　not　answer　but　I　stopped　the　beginnings　of　a　quarrel　between　an　old　Soyot　and　one　of　my　officers。　　I　pointed　to　the　small　stream　in　the　valley　ahead　of　us　and　asked　him　its　name。
  〃Oyna；〃　replied　the　Soyot。　　〃It　is　the　border　of　the　principality　and　the　passage　of　it　is　forbidden。〃
  〃All　right；〃　I　said；　〃but　you　will　allow　us　to　warm　and　rest　ourselves　a　little。〃
  〃Yes；　yes！〃　exclaimed　the　hospitable　Soyots；　and　led　us　into　their　tepees。
  On　our　way　there　I　took　the　opportunity　to　hand　to　the　old　Soyot　a　cigarette　and　to　another　a　box　of　matches。　　We　were　all　walking　along　together　save　one　Soyot　who　limped　slowly　in　the　rear　and　was　holding　his　hand　up　over　his　nose。
  〃Is　he　ill？〃　I　asked。
  〃Yes；〃　sadly　answered　the　old　Soyot。　　〃That　is　my　son。　　He　has　been　losing　blood　from　the　nose　for　two　days　and　is　now　quite　weak。〃
  I　stopped　and　called　the　young　man　to　me。
  〃Unbutton　your　outer　coat；〃　I　ordered；　〃bare　your　neck　and　chest　and　turn　your　face　up　as　far　as　you　can。〃　　I　pressed　the　jugular　vein　on　both　sides　of　his　head　for　some　minutes　and　said　to　him：
  〃The　blood　will　not　flow　from　your　nose　any　more。　　Go　into　your　tepee　and　lie　down　for　some　time。〃
  The　〃mysterious〃　action　of　my　fingers　created　on　the　Soyots　a　strong　impression。　　The　old　Soyot　with　fear　and　reverence　whispered：
  〃Ta　Lama；　Ta　Lama！　　（Great　Doctor）。〃
  In　the　yurta　we　were　given　tea　while　the　old　Soyot　sat　thinking　deeply　about　something。　　Afterwards　he　took　counsel　with　his　companions　and　finally　announced：
  〃The　wife　of　our　Prince　is　sick　in　her　eyes　and　I　think　the　Prince　will　be　very　glad　if　I　lead　the　'Ta　Lama'　to　him。　　He　will　not　punish　me；　for　he　ordered　that　no　'bad　people'　should　be　allowed　to　pass；　but　that　should　not　stop　the　'good　people'　from　coming　to　us。
  〃Do　as　you　think　best；〃　I　replied　rather　indifferently。　　〃As　a　matter　of　fact；　I　know　how　to　treat　eye　diseases　but　I　would　go　back　if　you　say　so。〃
  〃No；　no！〃　the　old　man　exclaimed　with　fear。　　〃I　shall　guide　you　myself。〃
  Sitting　by　the　fire；　he　lighted　his　pipe　with　a　flint；　wiped　the　mouthpiece　on　his　sleeve　and　offered　it　to　me　in　true　native　hospitality。　　I　was　〃comme　il　faut〃　and　smoked。　　Afterwards　he　offered　his　pipe　to　each　one　of　our　company　and　received　from　each　a　cigarette；　a　little　tobacco　or　some　matches。　　It　was　the　seal　on　our　friendship。　　Soon　in　our　yurta　many　persons　piled　up　around　us；　men；　women；　children　and　dogs。　　It　was　impossible　to　move。　　From　among　them　emerged　a　Lama　with　shaved　face　and　close　cropped　hair；　dressed　in　the　flowing　red　garment　of　his　caste。　　His　clothes　and　his　expression　were　very　different　from　the　common　mass　of　dirty　Soyots　with　their　queues　and　felt　caps　finished　off　with　squirrel　tails　on　the　top。　　The　Lama　was　very　kindly　disposed　towards　us　but　looked　ever　greedily　at　our　gold　rings　and　watches。　　I　decided　to　exploit　this　avidity　of　the　Servant　of　Buddha。　　Supplying　him　with　tea　and　dried　bread；　I　made　known　to　him　that　I　was　in　need　of　horses。
  〃I　have　a　horse。　　Will　you　buy　it　from　me？〃　he　asked。　　〃But　I　do　not　accept　Russian　bank　notes。　　Let　us　exchange　something。〃
  For　a　long　time　I　bargained　with　him　and　at　last　for　my　gold　wedding　ring；　a　raincoat　and　a　leather　saddle　bag　I　received　a　fine　Soyot　horseto　replace　one　of　the　pack　animals　we　had　lostand　a　young　goat。　　We　spent　the　night　here　and　were　feasted　with　fat　mutton。　　In　the　morning　we　moved　off　under　the　guidance　of　the　old　Soyot　along　the　trail　that　followed　the　valley　of　the　Oyna；　free　from　both　mountains　and　swamps。　　But　we　knew　that　the　mounts　of　my　friend　and　myself；　together　with　three　others；　were　too　worn　down　to　make　Kosogol　and　determined　to　try　to　buy　others　in　Soldjak。　Soon　we　began　to　meet　little　groups　of　Soyot　yurtas　with　their　cattle　and　horses　round　about。　　Finally　we　approached　the　shifting　capital　of　the　Prince。　　Our　guide　rode　on　ahead　for　the　parley　with　him　after　assuring　us　that　the　Prince　would　be　glad　to　welcome　the　Ta　Lama；　though　at　the　time　I　remarked　great　anxiety　and　fear　in　his　features　as　he　spoke。　　Before　long　we　emerged　on　to　a　large　plain　well　covered　with　small　bushes。　　Down　by　the　shore　of　the　river　we　made　out　big　yurtas　with　yellow　and　blue　flags　floating　over　them　and　easily　guessed　that　this　was　the　seat　of　government。　Soon　our　guide　returned　to　us。　　His　face　was　wreathed　with　smiles。　He　flourished　his　hands　and　cried：
  〃Noyon　（the　Prince）　asks　you　to　come！　　He　is　very　glad！〃
  From　a　warrior　I　was　forced　to　change　myself　into　a　diplomat。　　As　we　approached　the　yurta　of　the　Prince；　we　were　met　by　two　officials；　wearing　the　peaked　Mongol　caps　with　peacock　feathers　rampants　behind。　　With　low　obeisances　they　begged　the　foreign　〃Noyon〃　to　enter　the　yurta。　　My　friend　the　Tartar　and　I　entered。　In　the　rich　yurta　draped　with　expensive　silk　we　discovered　a　feeble；　wizen…faced　little　old　man　with　shaven　face　and　cropped　hair；　wearing　also　a　high　pointed　beaver　cap　with　red　silk　apex　topped　off　with　a　dark　red　button　with　the　long　peacock　feathers　streaming　out　behind。　　On　his　nose　were　big　Chinese　spectacles。　　He　was　sitting　on　a　low　divan；　nervously　clicking　the　beads　of　his　rosary。　　This　was　Ta　Lama；　Prince　of　Soldjak　and　High　Priest　of　the　Buddhist　Temple。　　He　welcomed　us　very　cordially　and　invited　us　to　sit　down　before　the　fire　burning　in　the　copper　brazier。　　His　surprisingly　beautiful　Princess　served　us　with　tea　and　Chinese　confections　and　cakes。　　We　smoked　our　pipes；　though　the　Prince　as　a　Lama　did　not　indulge；　fulfilling；　however；　his　duty　as　a　host　by　raising　to　his　lips　the　pipes　we　offered　him　and　handing　us　in　return　the　green　nephrite　bottle　of　snuff。　　Thus　with　the　etiquette　accomplished　we　awaited　the　words　of　the　Prince。　　He　inquired　whether　our　travels　had　been　felicitous　and　what　were　our　further　plans。　　I　talked　with　him　quite　frankly　and　requested　his　hospitality　for　the　rest　of　our　company　and　for　the　horses。　　He　agreed　immediately　and　ordered　four　yurtas　set　up　for　us。
  〃I　hear　that　the　foreign　Noyon；〃　the　Prince　said；　〃is　a　good　doctor。〃
  〃Yes；　I　know　some　diseases　and　have　with　me　some　medicines；〃　I　answered；　〃but　I　am　not　a　doctor。　　I　am　a　scientist　in　other　branches。〃
  But　the　Prince　did　not　understand　this。　　In　his　simple　directness　a　man　who　knows　how　to　treat　disease　is　a　doctor。
  〃My　wife　has　had　constant　trouble　for　two　months　with　her　eyes；〃　he　announced。　　〃Help　her。〃
  I　asked　the　Princess　to　show　me　her　eyes　and　I　found　the　typical　conjunctivitis　from　the　continual　smoke　of　the　yurta　and　the　general　uncleanliness。　　The　Tartar　brought　me　my　medicine　case。　　I　washed　her　eyes　with　boric　acid　and　dropped　a　little　cocaine　and　a　feeble　solution　of　sulphurate　of　zinc　into　them。
  〃I　beg　you　to　cure　me；〃　pleaded　the　Princess。　　〃Do　not　go　away　until　you　have　cured　me。　　We　shall　give　you　sheep；　milk　and　flour　for　all　your　company。　　I　weep　now　very　often　because　I　had　very　nice　eyes　and　my　husband　used　to　tell　me　they　shone　like　the　stars　and　now　they　are　red。　　I　cannot　bear　it；　I　cannot！〃
  She　very　capriciously　stamped　her　foot　and；　coquettishly　smiling　at　me；　asked：
  〃Do　you　want　to　cure　me？　　Yes？〃
  The　character　and　manners　of　lovely　woman　are　the　same　everywhere：　on　bright　Broadway；　along　the　stately　Thames；　on　the　vivacious　boulevards　of　gay　Paris　and　in　the　silk…draped　yurta　of　the　Soyot　Princess　behind　the　larch　covered　Tannu　Ola。
  〃I　shall　certainly　try；〃　assuringly　answered　the　new　oculist。
  We　spent　here　ten　days；　surrounded　by　the　kindness　and　friendship　of　the　whole　family　of　the　Prince。　　The　eyes　of　the　Princess；　which　eight　years　ago　had　seduced　the　already　old　Prince　Lama；　were　now　recovered。　　She　was　beside　herself　with　joy　and　seldom　left　her　looking…glass。
  The　Prince　gave　me　five　fairly　good　horses；　ten　sheep　and　a　bag　of　flour；　which　was　immediately　transformed　into　dry　bread。　　My　friend　presented　him　with　a　Romanoff　five…hundred…rouble　note　with　a　picture　of　Peter　the　Great　upon　it；　while　I　gave　to　him　a　small　nugget　of　gold　which　I　had　picked　up　in　the　bed　of　a　stream。　　The　Prince　ordered　one　of　the　Soyots　to　guide　us　to　the　Kosogol。　　The　whole　family　of　the　Prince　conducted　us　to　t