walls　before　them；　and　their　overcoats；　spread　over　them；　pulled　up　to　their　noses。　　I　pitied　them　immensely；　though　they　may　have　felt　less　wretched　than　they　looked。　　I　thought　not　of　the　old　profligacies　and　crimes；　not　of　the　funnel…shaped　torture…chamber　（which；　after　exciting　the　shudder　of　generations；　has　been　ascertained　now；　I　believe；　to　have　been　a　mediaeval　bakehouse）；　not　of　the　tower　of　the　_glaciere_　and　the　horrors　perpetrated　here　in　the　Revolution；　but　of　the　military　burden　of　young　France。　　One　wonders　how　young　France　en…　dures　it；　and　one　is　forced　to　believe　that　the　French　conscript　has；　in　addition　to　his　notorious　good…humor；　greater　toughness　than　is　commonly　supposed　by　those　who　consider　only　the　more　relaxing　influences　of　French　civilization。　　I　hope　he　finds　occasional　com…　pensation　for　such　moments　as　I　saw　those　damp　young　peasants　passing　on　the　mattresses　of　their　hideous　barrack；　without　anything　around　to　remind　them　that　they　were　in　the　most　civilized　of　countries。　The　only　traces　of　former　splendor　now　visible　in　the　Papal　pile　are　the　walls　and　vaults　of　two　small　chapels；　painted　in　fresco；　so　battered　and　effaced　as　to　be　scarcely　distinguishable；　by　Simone　Memmi。　　It　offers；　of　course；　a　peculiarly　good　field　for　restoration；　and　I　believe　the　government　intend　to　take　it　in　hand。　　I　mention　this　fact　without　a　sigh；　for　they　cannot　well　make　it　less　interesting　than　it　is　at　present。
  XXXIV。
  Fortunately；　it　did　not　rain　every　day　（though　I　believe　it　was　raining　everywhere　else　in　the　depart…　ment）；　otherwise　I　should　not　have　been　able　to　go　to　Villeneuve　and　to　Vaucluse。　　The　afternoon；　indeed；　was　lovely　when　I　walked　over　the　interminable　bridge　that　spans　the　two　arms　of　the　Rhone；　divided　here　by　a　considerable　island；　and　directed　my　course；　like　a　solitary　horseman　…　on　foot；　to　the　lonely　tower　which　forms　one　of　the　outworks　of　Villeneuve…les…　Avignon。　　The　picturesque；　half…deserted　little　town　lies　a　couple　of　miles　further　up　the　river。　　The　im…　mense　round　towers　of　its　old　citadel　and　the　long　stretches　of　ruined　wall　covering　the　slope　on　which　it　lies；　are　the　most　striking　features　of　the　nearer　view；　as　you　look　from　Avignon　across　the　Rhone。　　I　spent　a　couple　of　hours　in　visiting　these　objects；　and　there　was　a　kind　of　pictorial　sweetness　in　the　episode；　but　I　have　not　many　details　to　relate。　　The　isolated　tower　I　just　mentioned　has　much　in　common　with　the　detached　donjon　of　Montmajour；　which　I　had　looked　at　in　going　to　Les　Baux；　and　to　which　I　paid　my　respects　in　speaking　of　that　excursion。　　Also　the　work　of　Philippe　le　Bel　（built　in　1307）；　it　is　amazingly　big　and　stubborn；　and　formed　the　opposite　limit　of　the　broken　bridge；　whose　first　arches　（on　the　side　of　Avignon）　alone　remain　to　give　a　measure　of　the　oc…　casional　volume　of　the　Rhone。　　Half　an　hour's　walk　brought　me　to　Villeneuve；　which　lies　away　from　the　river；　looking　like　a　big　village；　half　depopulated；　and　occupied　for　the　most　part　by　dogs　and　cats；　old　women　and　small　children；　these　last；　in　general；　re…　markably　pretty；　in　the　manner　of　the　children　of　Provence。　　You　pass　through　the　place；　which　seems　in　a　singular　degree　vague　and　unconscious；　and　come　to　the　rounded　hill　on　which　the　ruined　abbey　lifts　its　yellow　walls；　…　the　Benedictine　abbey　of　Saint…　Andre；　at　once　a　church；　a　monastery；　and　a　fortress。　A　large　part　of　the　crumbling　enceinte　disposes　itself　over　the　hill；　but　for　the　rest；　all　that　has　preserved　any　traceable　cohesion　is　a　considerable　portion；　of　the　citadel。　　The　defence　of　the　place　appears　to　have　been　intrusted　largely　to　the　huge　round　towers　that　flank　the　old　gate；　one　of　which；　the　more　complete；　the　ancient　warden　（having　first　inducted　me　into　his　own　dusky　little　apartment；　and　presented　me　with　a　great　bunch　of　lavender）　enabled　me　to　examine　in　detail。　　I　would　almost　have　dispensed　with　the　privi…　lege；　for　I　think　I　have　already　mentioned　that　an　ac…　quaintance　with　many　feudal　interiors　has　wrought　a　sad　confusion　in　my　mind。　　The　image　of　the　outside　always　remains　distinct；　I　keep　it　apart　from　other　images　of　the　same　sort；　it　makes　a　picture　sufficiently　ineffaceable。　　But　the　guard…rooms；　winding　staircases；　loop…holes；　prisons；　repeat　themselves　and　intermingle；　they　have　a　wearisome　family　likeness。　　There　are　always　black　passages　and　corners；　and　walls　twenty　feet　thick；　and　there　is　always　some　high　place　to　climb　up　to　for　the　sake　of　a　〃magnificent〃　view。　The　views；　too；　are　apt　to　get　muddled。　　These　dense　gate…towers　of　Philippe　le　Bel　struck　me；　however；　as　peculiarly　wicked　and　grim。　　Their　capacity　is　of　the　largest；　and　they　contain　over　so　many　devilish　little　dungeons；　lighted　by　the　narrowest　slit　in　the　pro…　digious　wall；　where　it　comes　over　one　with　a　good　deal　of　vividness　and　still　more　horror　that　wretched　human　beings　ever　lay　there　rotting　in　the　dark。　　The　dungeons　of　Villeneuve　made　a　particular　impression　on　me；　…　greater　than　any；　except　those　of　Loches；　which　must　surely　be　the　most　grewsome　in　Europe。　I　hasten　to　add　that　every　dark　hole　at　Villeneuve　is　called　a　dungeon；　and　I　believe　it　is　well　established　that　in　this　manner；　in　almost　all　old　castles　and　towers；　the　sensibilities　of　the　modern　tourist　are　un…　scrupulously　played　upon。　　There　were　plenty　of　black　holes　in　the　Middle　Ages　that　were　not　dungeons；　but　household　receptacles　of　various　kinds；　and　many　a　tear　dropped　in　pity　for　the　groaning　captive　has　really　been　addressed　to　the　spirits　of　the　larder　and　the　faggot…nook。　　For　all　this；　there　are　some　very　bad　corners　in　the　towers　of　Villeneuve；　so　that　I　was　not　wide　of　the　mark　when　I　began　to　think　again；　as　I　had　often　thought　before；　of　the　stoutness　of　the　human　composition　in　the　Middle　Ages；　and　the　tranquillity　of　nerve　of　people　to　whom　the　groaning　captive　and　the　blackness　of　a　〃living　tomb〃　were　familiar　ideas；　which　did　not　at　all　interfere　with　their　happiness　or　their　sanity。　　Our　modern　nerves；　our　irritable　sym…　pathies；　our　easy　discomforts　and　fears；　make　one　think　（in　some　relations）　less　respectfully　of　human　nature。　Unless；　indeed；　it　be　true；　as　I　have　heard　it　main…　tained；　that　in　the　Middle　Ages　every　one　did　go　mad；　…　every　one　_was_　mad。　　The　theory　that　this　was　a　period　of　general　insanity　is　not　altogether　indefensible。
  Within　the　old　walls　of　its　immense　abbey　the　town　of　Villeneuve　has　built　itself　a　rough　faubourg；　the　fragments　with　which　the　soil　was　covered　having　been；　I　suppose；　a　quarry　of　material。　　There　are　no　streets；　the　small；　shabby　houses；　almost　hovels；　straggle　at　random　over　the　uneven　ground。　　The　only　im…　portant　feature　is　a　convent　of　cloistered　nuns；　who　have　a　large　garden　（always　within　the　walls）　behind　their　house；　and　whose　doleful　establishment　you　look　down　into；　or　down　at　simply；　from　the　battlements　of　the　citadel。　　One　or　two　of　the　nuns　were　passing　in　and　out　of　the　house；　they　wore　gray　robes；　with　a　bright　red　cape。　　I　thought　their　situation　most　pro…　vincial。　　I　came　away；　and　wandered　a　little　over　the　base　of　the　hill；　outside　the　walls。　　Small　white　stones　cropped　through　the　grass；　over　which　low　olive…trees　were　scattered。　　The　afternoon　had　a　yellow　bright…　ness。　　I　sat　down　under　one　of　the　little　trees；　on　the　grass；　…　the　delicate　gray　branches　were　not　much　above　my　head；　…　and　rested；　and　looked　at　Avignon　across　the　Rhone。　　It　was　very　soft；　very　still　and　pleasant；　though　I　am　not　sure　it　was　all　I　once　should　have　expected　of　that　combination　of　elements：　an　old　city　wall　for　a　background；　a　canopy　of　olives；　and；　for　a　couch；　the　soil　of　Provence。
  When　I　came　back　to　Avignon　the　twilight　was　already　thick；　but　I　walked　up　to　the　Rocher　des　Doms。　　Here　I　again　had　the　benefit　of　that　amiable　moon　which　had　already　lighted　up　for　me　so　many　romantic　scenes。　　She　was　full；　and　she　rose　over　the　Rhone；　and　made　it　look　in　the　distance　like　a　silver　serpent。　　I　remember　saying　to　myself　at　this　mo…　ment；　that　it　would　be　a　beautiful　evening　to　walk　round　the　walls　of　Avignon；　…　the　remarkable　walls；　which　challenge　comparison　with　those　of　Carcassonne　and　Aigues…Mortes；　and　which　it　was　my　duty；　as　an　observer　of　the　picturesque；　to　examine　with　some　at…　tention。　　Presenting　themselves　to　that　silver　sheen；　they　could　not　fail　to　be　impressive。　　So；　at　least；　I　said　to　myself；　but；　unfortunately；　I　did　not　believe　what　I　said。　　It　is　a　melancholy　fact　that　the　walls　of　Avignon　had　never　impressed　me　at　all；　and　I　had　never　taken　the　trouble　to　make　the　circuit。　　They　are　continuous　and　complete；　but　for　some　mysterious　reason　they　fail　of　their　effect。　　This　is　partly　because　they　are　very　low；　in　some　places　almost　absurdly　so；　being　buried　in　new　accumulations　of　soil；　and　by　the　filling　in　of　the　moat　up　to　their　middle。　　Then　they　have　been　too　well　tended；　they　not　only　look　at　present　very　new；　but　look　as　if　they　had　never　been　old。　　The　fact　that　their　extent　is　very　much　greater　makes　them　more　of　a　curiosity　than　those　of　Carcas…　sonne；　but　this　is　exactly；　as　the　same　time；　what　is　fatal　to　their　pictorial　unity。　　With　their　thirty…seven　towers　and　seven　gates　they　lose　themselves　too　much　to　make　a　picture　that