een　washerwomen　in　the　Trastevere　who　were　perhaps　as　handsome　as　she；　but　even　the　head…dress　of　the　Roman　contadina　con…　tributes　less　to　the　dignity　of　the　person　born　to　wear　it　than　the　sweet　and　stately　Arlesian　cap；　which　sits　at　once　aloft　and　on　the　back　of　the　head；　which　is　accompanied　with　a　wide　black　bow　covering　a　con…　siderable　part　of　the　crown；　and　which；　finally；　accom…　modates　itself　indescribably　well　to　the　manner　in　which　the　tresses　of　the　front　are　pushed　behind　the　cars。
  This　admirable　dispenser　of　lumps　of　sugar　has　distracted　me　a　little；　for　I　am　still　not　sufficiently　historical。　　Before　going　to　the　cafe　I　had　dined；　and　before　dining　I　had　found　time　to　go　and　look　at　the　arena。　　Then　it　was　that　I　discovered　that　Arles　has　no　general　physiognomy；　and；　except　the　delightful　little　church　of　Saint　Trophimus；　no　architecture；　and　that　the　rugosities　of　its　dirty　lanes　affect　the　feet　like　knife…blades。　　It　was　not　then；　on　the　other　hand；　that　I　saw　the　arena　best。　　The　second　day　of　my　stay　at　Arles　I　devoted　to　a　pilgrimage　to　the　strange　old　hill　town　of　Les　Baux；　the　mediaeval　Pompeii；　of　which　I　shall　give　myself　the　pleasure　of　speaking。　　The　even…　ing　of　that　day；　however　（my　friend　and　I　returned　in　time　for　a　late　dinner）；　I　wandered　among　the　Roman　remains　of　the　place　by　the　light　of　a　magnificent　moon；　and　gathered　an　impression　which　has　lost　little　of　its　silvery　glow。　　The　moon　of　the　evening　before　had　been　aqueous　and　erratic；　but　if　on　the　present　occasion　it　was　guilty　of　any　irregularity；　the　worst　it　did　was　only　to　linger　beyond　its　time　in　the　heavens；　in　order　to　let　us　look　at　things　comfortably。　　The　effect　was　admirable；　it　brought　back　the　impression　of　the　way；　in　Rome　itself；　on　evenings　like　that；　the　moonshine　rests　upon　broken　shafts　and　slabs　of　an…　tique　pavement。　　As　we　sat　in　the　theatre；　looking　at　the　two　lone　columns　that　survive　…　part　of　the　decora…　tion　of　the　back　of　the　stage　…　and　at　the　fragments　of　ruin　around　them；　we　might　have　been　in　the　Roman　forum。　　The　arena　at　Arles；　with　its　great　magnitude；　is　less　complete　than　that　of　Nimes；　it　has　suffered　even　more　the　assaults　of　time　and　of　the　children　of　time；　and　it　has　been　less　repaired。　　The　seats　are　almost　wholly　wanting；　but　the　external　walls　minus　the　topmost　tier　of　arches；　are　massively；　rug…　gedly；　complete；　and　the　vaulted　corridors　seem　as　solid　as　the　day　they　were　built。　　The　whole　thing　is　superbly　vast；　and　as　monumental；　for　place　of　light　amusement　…　what　is　called　in　America　a　〃variety…　show〃　…　as　it　entered　only　into　the　Roman　mind　to　make　such　establishments。　　The　_podium_　is　much　higher　than　at　Nimes；　and　many　of　the　great　white　slabs　that　faced　it　have　been　recovered　and　put　into　their　places。　The　proconsular　box　has　been　more　or　less　recon…　structed；　and　the　great　converging　passages　of　approach　to　it　are　still　majestically　distinct：　so　that；　as　I　sat　there　in　the　moon…charmed　stillness；　leaning　my　elbows　on　the　battered　parapet　of　the　ring；　it　was　not　im…　possible　…　to　listen　to　the　murmurs　and　shudders；　the　thick　voice　of　the　circus；　that　died　away　fifteen　hun…　dred　years　ago。
  The　theatre　has　a　voice　as　well；　but　it　lingers　on　the　ear　of　time　with　a　different　music。　　The　Roman　theatre　at　Arles　seemed　to　me　one　of　the　most　charm…　ing　and　touching　ruins　I　had　ever　beheld；　I　took　a　particular　fancy　to　it。　　It　is　less　than　a　skeleton；　…　the　arena　may　be　called　a　skeleton；　for　it　consists　only　of　half　a　dozen　bones。　　The　traces　of　the　row　of　columns　which　formed　the　scene　…　the　permanent　back…scene　…　remain；　two　marble　pillars　…　I　just　mentioned　them　…　are　upright；　with　a　fragment　of　their　entablature。　　Be　fore　them　is　the　vacant　space　which　was　filled　by　the　stage；　with　the　line　of　the　prosoenium　distinct；　marked　by　a　deep　groove；　impressed　upon　slabs　of　stone；　which　looks　as　if　the　bottom　of　a　high　screen　had　been　in…　tended　to　fit　into　it。　　The　semicircle　formed　by　the　seats　…　half　a　cup　…　rises　opposite；　some　of　the　rows　are　distinctly　marked。　　The　floor；　from　the　bottom　of　the　stage；　in　the　shape　of　an　arc　of　which　the　chord　is　formed　by　the　line　of　the　orchestra；　is　covered　by　slabs　of　colored　marble　…　red；　yellow；　and　green　…　which；　though　terribly　battered　and　cracked　to…day；　give　one　an　idea　of　the　elegance　of　the　interior。　　Every…　thing　shows　that　it　was　on　a　great　scale：　the　large　sweep　of　its　enclosing　walls；　the　massive　corridors　that　passed　behind　the　auditorium；　and　of　which　we　can　still　perfectly　take　the　measure。　　The　way　in　which　every　seat　commanded　the　stage　is　a　lesson　to　the　architects　of　our　epoch；　as　also　the　immense　size　of　the　place　is　a　proof　of　extraordinary　power　of　voice　on　the　part　of　the　Roman　actors。　　It　was　after　we　had　spent　half　an　hour　in　the　moonshine　at　the　arena　that　we　came　on　to　this　more　ghostly　and　more　exquisite　ruin。　　The　principal　entrance　was　locked；　but　we　effected　an　easy　_escalade_；　scaled　a　low　parapet；　and　descended　into　the　place　behind　file　scenes。　　It　was　as　light　as　day；　and　the　solitude　was　complete。　　The　two　slim　columns；　as　we　sat　on　the　broken　benches；　stood　there　like　a　pair　of　silent　actors。　　What　I　called　touching；　just　now；　was　the　thought　that　here　the　human　voice；　the　utterance　of　a　great　language；　had　been　supreme。　　The　air　was　full　of　intonations　and　cadences；　not　of　the　echo　of　smashing　blows；　of　riven　armor；　of　howling　victims　and　roaring　beasts。　　The　spot　is；　in　short；　one　of　the　sweetest　legacies　of　the　ancient　world；　and　there　seems　no　profanation　in　the　fact　that　by　day　it　is　open　to　the　good　people　of　Arles；　who　use　it　to　pass；　by　no　means　in　great　num…　bers；　from　one　part　of　the　town　to　the　other；　treading　the　old　marble　floor；　and　brushing；　if　need　be；　the　empty　benches。　　This　familiarity　does　not　kill　the　place　again；　it　makes　it；　on　the　contrary；　live　a　little；　…　makes　the　present　and　the　past　touch　each　other。
  XXXI。
  The　third　lion　of　Arles　has　nothing　to　do　with　the　ancient　world；　but　only　with　the　old　one。　　The　church　of　Saint　Trophimus；　whose　wonderful　Romanesque　porch　is　the　principal　ornament　of　the　principal　_place_；　…　a　_place_　otherwise　distinguished　by　the　presence　of　a　slim　and　tapering　obelisk　in　the　middle；　as　well　as　by　that　of　the　Hotel　de　Ville　and　the　museum　…　the　interesting　church　of　Saint　Trophimus　swears　a　little；　as　the　French　say；　with　the　peculiar　character　of　Arles。　　It　is　very　remarkable；　but　I　would　rather　it　were　in　another　place。　　Arles　is　delightfully　pagan；　and　Saint　Trophimus；　with　its　apostolic　sculptures；　is　rather　a　false　note。　　These　sculptures　are　equally　re…　markable　for　their　primitive　vigor　and　for　the　perfect　preservation　in　which　they　have　come　down　to　us。　The　deep　recess　of　a　round…arched　porch　of　the　twelfth　century　is　covered　with　quaint　figures；　which　have　not　lost　a　nose　or　a　finger。　　An　angular；　Byzan…　tine…looking　Christ　sits　in　a　diamond…shaped　frame　at　the　summit　of　the　arch；　surrounded　by　little　angels；　by　great　apostles；　by　winged　beasts；　by　a　hundred　sacred　symbols　and　grotesque　ornaments。　　It　is　a　dense　embroidery　of　sculpture；　black　with　time；　but　as　uninjured　as　if　it　had　been　kept　under　glass。　　One　good　mark　for　the　French　Revolution！　　Of　the　in…　terior　of　the　church；　which　has　a　nave　of　the　twelfth　century；　and　a　choir　three　hundred　years　more　recent；　I　chiefly　remember　the　odd　feature　that　the　Romanesque　aisles　are　so　narrow　that　you　literally　…　or　almost　…　squeeze　through　them。　　You　do　so　with　some　eager…　ness；　for　your　natural　purpose　is　to　pass　out　to　the　cloister。　　This　cloister；　as　distinguished　and　as　per…　fect　as　the　porch；　has　a　great　deal　of　charm。　　Its　four　sides；　which　are　not　of　the　same　period　（the　earliest　and　best　are　of　the　twelfth　century）；　have　an　elaborate　arcade；　supported　on　delicate　pairs　of　columns；　the　capitals　of　which　show　an　extraordinary　variety　of　device　and　ornament。　　At　the　corners　of　the　quadrangle　these　columns　take　the　form　of　curious　human　figures。　The　whole　thing　is　a　gem　of　lightness　and　preserva…　tion；　and　is　often　cited　for　its　beauty；　but　…　if　it　doesn't　sound　too　profane　…　I　prefer；　especially　at　Arles；　the　ruins　of　the　Roman　theatre。　　The　antique　element　is　too　precious　to　be　mingled　with　anything　less　rare。　　This　truth　was　very　present　to　my　mind　during　a　ramble　of　a　couple　of　hours　that　I　took　just　before　leaving　the　place；　and　the　glowing　beauty　of　the　morning　gave　the　last　touch　of　the　impression。　　I　spent　half　an　hour　at　the　Museum；　then　I　took　an…　other　look　at　the　Roman　theatre；　after　which　I　walked　a　little　out　of　the　town　to　the　Aliscamps；　the　old　Elysian　Fields；　the　meagre　remnant　of　the　old　pagan　place　of　sepulture；　which　was　afterwards　used　by　the　Christians；　but　has　been　for　ages　deserted；　and　now　consists　only　of　a　melancholy　avenue　of　cypresses；　lined　with　a　succession　of　ancient　sarcophagi；　empty；　mossy；　and　mutilated。　　An　iron…foundry；　or　some　hor…　rible　establishment　which　is　conditioned　upon　tall　chimneys　and　a　noise　of　hammering　and　banging；　has　been　established　near　at　hand；　but　the　cypresses　shut　it　out　well　enough；　and　this　small　patch　of　Elysium　is　a　very　romantic　corner。
  The　door　of　the　Museum　stands　ajar；　and　a　vigilant　custodian；　with　the　usual　batch　of　photographs