ined　off；　it　appeared　not　to　correspond　with　the　nave；　…　that　is；　not　to　have　the　same　axis。　　The　only　other　ec…　clesiastical　impression　I　gathered　at　Toulouse　came　to　me　in　the　church　of　La　Daurade；　of　which　the　front；　on　the　quay　by　the　Garonne；　was　closed　with　scaffold…　ings；　so　that　one　entered　it　from　behind；　where　it　is　completely　masked　by　houses；　through　a　door　which　has　at　first　no　traceable　connection　with　it。　　It　is　a　vast；　high；　modernised；　heavily　decorated　church；　dimly　lighted　at　all　times；　I　should　suppose；　and　enriched　by　the　shades　of　evening　at　the　time　I　looked　into　it。　I　perceived　that　it　consisted　mainly　of　a　large　square；　beneath　a　dome；　in　the　centre　of　which　a　single　person　…　a　lady　…　was　praying　with　the　utmost　absorption。　The　manner　of　access　to　the　church　interposed　such　an　obstacle　to　the　outer　profanities　that　I　had　a　sense　of　intruding；　and　presently　withdrew；　carrying　with　me　a　picture　of　the；　vast；　still　interior；　the　gilded　roof　gleaming　in　the　twilight；　and　the　solitary　worshipper。　What　was　she　praying　for；　and　was　she　not　almost　afraid　to　remain　there　alone？
  For　the　rest；　the　picturesque　at　Toulouse　consists　principally　of　the　walk　beside　the　Garonne；　which　is　spanned；　to　the　faubourg　of　Saint…Cyprien；　by　a　stout　brick　bridge。　　This　hapless　suburb；　the　baseness　of　whose　site　is　noticeable；　lay　for　days　under　the　water　at　the　time　of　the　last　inundations。　　The　Garonne　had　almost　mounted　to　the　roofs　of　the　houses；　and　the　place　continues　to　present　a　blighted；　frightened　look。　　Two　or　three　persons；　with　whom　I　had　some　conversation；　spoke　of　that　time　as　a　memory　of　horror。　I　have　not　done　with　my　Italian　comparisons；　I　shall　never　have　done　with　them。　　I　am　therefore　free　to　say　that　in　the　way　in　which　Toulouse　looks　out　on　the　Garonne　there　was　something　that　reminded　me　vaguely　of　the　way　in　which　Pisa　looks　out　on　the　Arno。　　The　red…faced　houses　…　all　of　brick　…　along　the　quay　have　a　mixture　of　brightness　and　shabbiness；　as　well　as　the　fashion　of　the　open　_loggia_　in　the　top…　story。　　The　river；　with　another　bridge　or　two；　might　be　the　Arno；　and　the　buildings　on　the　other　side　of　it　…　a　hospital；　a　suppressed　convent　…　dip　their　feet　into　it　with　real　southern　cynicism。　　I　have　spoken　of　the　old　Hotel　d'Assezat　as　the　best　house　at　Toulouse；　with　the　exception　of　the　cloister　of　the　museum；　it　is　the　only　〃bit〃　I　remember。　　It　has　fallen　from　the　state　of　a　noble　residence　of　the　sixteenth　century　to　that　of　a　warehouse　and　a　set　of　offices；　but　a　certain　dignity　lingers　in　its　melancholy　court；　which　is　divided　from　the　street　by　a　gateway　that　is　still　imposing；　and　in　which　a　clambering　vine　and　a　red　Virginia…　creeper　were　suspended　to　the　rusty　walls　of　brick　stone。
  The　most　interesting　house　at　Toulouse　is　far　from　being　the　most　striking。　　At　the　door　of　No。　50　Rue　des　Filatiers；　a　featureless；　solid　structure；　was　found　hanging；　one　autumn　evening；　the　body　of　the　young　Marc…Antoine　Calas；　whose　ill…inspired　suicide　was　to　be　the　first　act　of　a　tragedy　so　horrible。　　The　fana…　ticism　aroused　in　the　townsfolk　by　this　incident；　the　execution　by　torture　of　Jean　Calas；　accused　as　a　Protestant　of　having　hanged　his　son；　who　had　gone　over　to　the　Church　of　Rome；　the　ruin　of　the　family；　the　claustration　of　the　daughters；　the　flight　of　the　widow　to　Switzerland；　her　introduction　to　Voltaire；　the　excited　zeal　of　that　incomparable　partisan；　and　the　passionate　persistence　with　which；　from　year　to　year；　he　pursued　a　reversal　of　judgment；　till　at　last　he　obtained　it；　and　devoted　the　tribunal　of　Toulouse　to　execration　and　the　name　of　the　victims　to　lasting　wonder　and　pity；　…　these　things　form　part　of　one　of　the　most　interesting　and　touching　episodes　of　the　social　history　of　the　eighteenth　century。　　The　story　has　the　fatal　progression；　the　dark　rigidity；　of　one　of　the　tragic　dramas　of　the　Greeks。　　Jean　Calas；　advanced　in　life；　blameless；　bewildered；　protesting。　his　innocence；　had　been　broken　on　the　wheel；　and　the　sight　of　his　decent　dwelling；　which　brought　home　to　me　all　that　had　been　suflered　there；　spoiled　for　me；　for　half　an　hour；　the　impression　of　Toulouse。
  XXII。
  I　spent　but　a　few　hours　at　Carcassonne；　but　those　hours　had　a　rounded　felicity；　and　I　cannot　do　better　than　transcribe　from　my　note…book　the　little　record　made　at　the　moment。　　Vitiated　as　it　may　be　by　crudity　and　incoherency；　it　has　at　any　rate　the　fresh…　ness　of　a　great　emotion。　　This　is　the　best　quality　that　a　reader　may　hope　to　extract　from　a　narrative　in　which　〃useful　information〃　and　technical　lore　even　of　the　most　general　sort　are　completely　absent。　　For　Carcassonne　is　moving；　beyond　a　doubt；　and　the　traveller　who；　in　the　course　of　a　little　tour　in　France；　may　have　felt　himself　urged；　in　melancholy　moments；　to　say　that　on　the　whole　the　disappointments　are　as　numerous　as　the　satisfactions；　must　admit　that　there　can　be　nothing　better　than　this。
  The　country；　after　you　leave　Toulouse；　continues　to　be　charming；　the　more　so　that　it　merges　its　flatness　in　the　distant　Cevennes　on　one　side；　and　on　the　other；　far　away　on　your　right；　in　the　richer　range　of　the　Pyrenees。　　Olives　and　cypresses；　pergolas　and　vines；　terraces　on　the　roofs　of　houses；　soft；　iridescent　moun…　tains；　a　warm　yellow　light；　…　what　more　could　the　dif…　ficult　tourist　want？　　He　left　his　luggage　at　the　station；　warily　determined　to　look　at　the　inn　before　committing　himself　to　it。　　It　was　so　evident　（even　to　a　cursory　glance）　that　it　might　easily　have　been　much　better　that　he　simply　took　his　way　to　the　town；　with　the　whole　of　a　superb　afternoon　before　him。　　When　I　say　the　town；　I　mean　the　towns；　there　being　two　at　Car…　cassonne；　perfectly　distinct；　and　each　with　excellent　claims　to　the　title。　　They　have　settled　the　matter　be…　tween　them；　however；　and　the　elder；　the　shrine　of　pilgrimage；　to　which　the　other　is　but　a　stepping…stone；　or　even；　as　I　may　say；　a　humble　door…mat；　takes　the　name　of　the　Cite。　　You　see　nothing　of　the　Cite　from　the　station；　it　is　masked　by　the　agglomeration　of　the　_ville…basse_；　which　is　relatively　（but　only　relatively）　new。　A　wonderful　avenue　of　acacias　leads　to　it　from　the　station；　…　leads　past；　rather；　and　conducts　you　to　a　little　high…backed　bridge　over　the　Aude；　beyond　which；　detached　and　erect；　a　distinct　mediaeval　silhouette；　the　Cite　presents　itself。　　Like　a　rival　shop；　on　the　in…　vidious　side　of　a　street；　it　has　〃no　connection〃　with　the　establishment　across　the　way；　although　the　two　places　are　united　（if　old　Carcassonne　may　be　said　to　be　united　to　anything）　by　a　vague　little　rustic　fau…　bourg。　　Perched　on　its　solid　pedestal；　the　perfect　de…　tachment　of　the　Cite　is　what　first　strikes　you。　　To　take　leave；　without　delay；　of　the　_ville…basse_；　I　may　say　that　the　splendid　acacias　I　have　mentioned　flung　a　sum…　merish　dusk　over　the　place；　in　which　a　few　scattered　remains　of　stout　walls　and　big　bastions　looked　vener…　able　and　picturesque。　　A　little　boulevard　winds　round　the　town；　planted　with　trees　and　garnished　with　more　benches　than　I　ever　saw　provided　by　a　soft…hearted　municipality。　　This　precinct　had　a　warm；　lazy；　dusty；　southern　look；　as　if　the　people　sat　out…of…doors　a　great　deal；　and　wandered　about　in　the　stillness　of　summer　nights。　　The　figure　of　the　elder　town；　at　these　hours；　must　be　ghostly　enough　on　its　neighboring　hill。　　Even　by　day　it　has　the　air　of　a　vignette　of　Gustave　Dore；　a　couplet　of　Victor　Hugo。　　It　is　almost　too　perfect；　…　as　if　it　were　an　enormous　model；　placed　on　a　big　green　table　at　a　museum。　　A　steep；　paved　way；　grass…grown　like　all　roads　where　vehicles　never　pass；　stretches　up　to　it　in　the　sun。　　It　has　a　double　enceinte；　complete　outer　walls　and　complete　inner　（these；　elaborately　forti…　fied；　are　the　more　curious）；　and　this　congregation　of　ramparts；　towers；　bastions；　battlements；　barbicans；　is　as　fantastic　and　romantic　as　you　please。　　The　approach　I　mention　here　leads　to　the　gate　that　looks　toward　Toulouse；　…　the　Porte　de　l'Aude。　　There　is　a　second；　on　the　other　side；　called；　I　believe；　the　Porte　Nar…　bonnaise；　a　magnificent　gate；　flanked　with　towers　thick　and　tall；　defended　by　elaborate　outworks；　and　these　two　apertures　alone　admit　you　to　the　place；　…　putting　aside　a　small　sally…port；　protected　by　a　great　bastion；　on　the　quarter　that　looks　toward　the　Pyrenees。
  As　a　votary；　always；　in　the　first　instance；　of　a　general　impression；　I　walked　all　round　the　outer　en…　ceinte；　…　a　process　on　the　very　face　of　it　entertaining。　I　took　to　the　right　of　the　Porte　de　l'Aude；　without　entering　it；　where　the　old　moat　has　been　filled　in。　The　filling…in　of　the　moat　has　created　a　grassy　level　at　the　foot　of　the　big　gray　towers；　which；　rising　at　frequent　intervals；　stretch　their　stiff　curtain　of　stone　from　point　to　point。　　The　curtain　drops　without　a　fold　upon　the　quiet　grass；　which　was　dotted　here　and　there　with　a　humble　native；　dozing　away　the　golden　afternoon。　　The　natives　of　the　elder　Carcassonne　are　all　humble；　for　the　core　of　the　Cite　has　shrunken　and　decayed；　and　there　is　little　life　among　the　ruins。　　A　few　tenacious　laborers；　who　work　in　the　neighboring　fields　or　in　the　_ville…basse_；　and　sundry　octogenarians　of　both　sexes；　who　are　dying　where　they　have　lived；　and　contribute　much　to　the　pictorial　effect；　…　these　are　the　principal