I　　have　never　forgotten　that　girl；　and　I　think　she　very　nearly　　deserves　a　statue。　　To　call　her　a　young　lady；　with　all　its　niminy　　associations；　would　be　to　offer　her　an　insult。　　She　may　rest　　assured　of　one　thing：　　although　she　never　should　marry　a　heroic　　general；　never　see　any　great　or　immediate　result　of　her　life；　she　　will　not　have　lived　in　vain　for　her　native　land。
  But　though　French　soldiers　show　to　ill　advantage　on　parade；　on　the　　march　they　are　gay；　alert；　and　willing　like　a　troop　of　fox…hunters。　　　I　remember　once　seeing　a　company　pass　through　the　forest　of　　Fontainebleau；　on　the　Chailly　road；　between　the　Bas　Breau　and　the　　Reine　Blanche。　　One　fellow　walked　a　little　before　the　rest；　and　　sang　a　loud；　audacious　marching　song。　　The　rest　bestirred　their　　feet；　and　even　swung　their　muskets　in　time。　　A　young　officer　on　　horseback　had　hard　ado　to　keep　his　countenance　at　the　words。　　You　　never　saw　anything　so　cheerful　and　spontaneous　as　their　gait；　　schoolboys　do　not　look　more　eagerly　at　hare　and　hounds；　and　you　　would　have　thought　it　impossible　to　tire　such　willing　marchers。
  My　great　delight　in　Compiegne　was　the　town…hall。　　I　doted　upon　the　　town…hall。　　It　is　a　monument　of　Gothic　insecurity；　all　turreted；　　and　gargoyled；　and　slashed；　and　bedizened　with　half　a　score　of　　architectural　fancies。　　Some　of　the　niches　are　gilt　and　painted；　　and　in　a　great　square　panel　in　the　centre；　in　black　relief　on　a　　gilt　ground；　Louis　XII。　rides　upon　a　pacing　horse；　with　hand　on　hip　　and　head　thrown　back。　　There　is　royal　arrogance　in　every　line　of　　him；　the　stirruped　foot　projects　insolently　from　the　frame；　the　eye　　is　hard　and　proud；　the　very　horse　seems　to　be　treading　with　　gratification　over　prostrate　serfs；　and　to　have　the　breath　of　the　　trumpet　in　his　nostrils。　　So　rides　for　ever；　on　the　front　of　the　　town…hall；　the　good　king　Louis　XII。；　the　father　of　his　people。
  Over　the　king's　head；　in　the　tall　centre　turret；　appears　the　dial　　of　a　clock；　and　high　above　that；　three　little　mechanical　figures；　　each　one　with　a　hammer　in　his　hand；　whose　business　it　is　to　chime　　out　the　hours　and　halves　and　quarters　for　the　burgesses　of　　Compiegne。　　The　centre　figure　has　a　gilt　breast…plate；　the　two　　others　wear　gilt　trunk…hose；　and　they　all　three　have　elegant；　　flapping　hats　like　cavaliers。　　As　the　quarter　approaches；　they　turn　　their　heads　and　look　knowingly　one　to　the　other；　and　then；　KLING　go　　the　three　hammers　on　three　little　bells　below。　　The　hour　follows；　　deep　and　sonorous；　from　the　interior　of　the　tower；　and　the　gilded　　gentlemen　rest　from　their　labours　with　contentment。
  I　had　a　great　deal　of　healthy　pleasure　from　their　manoeuvres；　and　　took　good　care　to　miss　as　few　performances　as　possible；　and　I　found　　that　even　the　CIGARETTE；　while　he　pretended　to　despise　my　　enthusiasm；　was　more　or　less　a　devotee　himself。　　There　is　something　　highly　absurd　in　the　exposition　of　such　toys　to　the　outrages　of　　winter　on　a　housetop。　　They　would　be　more　in　keeping　in　a　glass　　case　before　a　Nurnberg　clock。　　Above　all；　at　night；　when　the　　children　are　abed；　and　even　grown　people　are　snoring　under　quilts；　　does　it　not　seem　impertinent　to　leave　these　ginger…bread　figures　　winking　and　tinkling　to　the　stars　and　the　rolling　moon？　　The　　gargoyles　may　fitly　enough　twist　their　ape…like　heads；　fitly　enough　　may　the　potentate　bestride　his　charger；　like　a　centurion　in　an　old　　German　print　of　the　VIA　DOLOROSA；　but　the　toys　should　be　put　away　　in　a　box　among　some　cotton；　until　the　sun　rises；　and　the　children　　are　abroad　again　to　be　amused。
  In　Compiegne　post…office　a　great　packet　of　letters　awaited　us；　and　　the　authorities　were；　for　this　occasion　only；　so　polite　as　to　hand　　them　over　upon　application。
  In　some　ways；　our　journey　may　be　said　to　end　with　this　letter…bag　　at　Compiegne。　　The　spell　was　broken。　　We　had　partly　come　home　from　　that　moment。
  No　one　should　have　any　correspondence　on　a　journey；　it　is　bad　　enough　to　have　to　write；　but　the　receipt　of　letters　is　the　death　of　　all　holiday　feeling。
  'Out　of　my　country　and　myself　I　go。'　　I　wish　to　take　a　dive　among　　new　conditions　for　a　while；　as　into　another　element。　　I　have　　nothing　to　do　with　my　friends　or　my　affections　for　the　time；　when　I　　came　away；　I　left　my　heart　at　home　in　a　desk；　or　sent　it　forward　　with　my　portmanteau　to　await　me　at　my　destination。　　After　my　　journey　is　over；　I　shall　not　fail　to　read　your　admirable　letters　　with　the　attention　they　deserve。　　But　I　have　paid　all　this　money；　　look　you；　and　paddled　all　these　strokes；　for　no　other　purpose　than　　to　be　abroad；　and　yet　you　keep　me　at　home　with　your　perpetual　　communications。　　You　tug　the　string；　and　I　feel　that　I　am　a　　tethered　bird。　　You　pursue　me　all　over　Europe　with　the　little　　vexations　that　I　came　away　to　avoid。　　There　is　no　discharge　in　the　　war　of　life；　I　am　well　aware；　but　shall　there　not　be　so　much　as　a　　week's　furlough？
  We　were　up　by　six；　the　day　we　were　to　leave。　　They　had　taken　so　　little　note　of　us　that　I　hardly　thought　they　would　have　　condescended　on　a　bill。　　But　they　did；　with　some　smart　particulars　　too；　and　we　paid　in　a　civilised　manner　to　an　uninterested　clerk；　　and　went　out　of　that　hotel；　with　the　india…rubber　bags；　unremarked。　　　No　one　cared　to　know　about　us。　　It　is　not　possible　to　rise　before　a　　village；　but　Compiegne　was　so　grown　a　town；　that　it　took　its　ease　　in　the　morning；　and　we　were　up　and　away　while　it　was　still　in　　dressing…gown　and　slippers。　　The　streets　were　left　to　people　　washing　door…steps；　nobody　was　in　full　dress　but　the　cavaliers　upon　　the　town…hall；　they　were　all　washed　with　dew；　spruce　in　their　　gilding；　and　full　of　intelligence　and　a　sense　of　professional　　responsibility。　　KLING　went　they　on　the　bells　for　the　half…past　six　　as　we　went　by。　　I　took　it　kind　of　them　to　make　me　this　parting　　compliment；　they　never　were　in　better　form；　not　even　at　noon　upon　a　　Sunday。
  There　was　no　one　to　see　us　off　but　the　early　washerwomen　…　early　　and　late　…　who　were　already　beating　the　linen　in　their　floating　　lavatory　on　the　river。　　They　were　very　merry　and　matutinal　in　their　　ways；　plunged　their　arms　boldly　in；　and　seemed　not　to　feel　the　　shock。　　It　would　be　dispiriting　to　me；　this　early　beginning　and　　first　cold　dabble　of　a　most　dispiriting　day's　work。　　But　I　believe　　they　would　have　been　as　unwilling　to　change　days　with　us　as　we　　could　be　to　change　with　them。　　They　crowded　to　the　door　to　watch　us　　paddle　away　into　the　thin　sunny　mists　upon　the　river；　and　shouted　　heartily　after　us　till　we　were　through　the　bridge。
  CHANGED　TIMES
  THERE　is　a　sense　in　which　those　mists　never　rose　from　off　our　　journey；　and　from　that　time　forth　they　lie　very　densely　in　my　note…　book。　　As　long　as　the　Oise　was　a　small　rural　river；　it　took　us　near　　by　people's　doors；　and　we　could　hold　a　conversation　with　natives　in　　the　riparian　fields。　　But　now　that　it　had　grown　so　wide；　the　life　　along　shore　passed　us　by　at　a　distance。　　It　was　the　same　difference　　as　between　a　great　public　highway　and　a　country　by…path　that　　wanders　in　and　out　of　cottage　gardens。　　We　now　lay　in　towns；　where　　nobody　troubled　us　with　questions；　we　had　floated　into　civilised　　life；　where　people　pass　without　salutation。　　In　sparsely　inhabited　　places；　we　make　all　we　can　of　each　encounter；　but　when　it　comes　to　　a　city；　we　keep　to　ourselves；　and　never　speak　unless　we　have　　trodden　on　a　man's　toes。　　In　these　waters　we　were　no　longer　strange　　birds；　and　nobody　supposed　we　had　travelled　farther　than　from　the　　last　town。　　I　remember；　when　we　came　into　L'Isle　Adam；　for　　instance；　how　we　met　dozens　of　pleasure…boats　outing　it　for　the　　afternoon；　and　there　was　nothing　to　distinguish　the　true　voyager　　from　the　amateur；　except；　perhaps；　the　filthy　condition　of　my　sail。　　　The　company　in　one　boat　actually　thought　they　recognised　me　for　a　　neighbour。　　Was　there　ever　anything　more　wounding？　　All　the　romance　　had　come　down　to　that。　　Now；　on　the　upper　Oise；　where　nothing　　sailed　as　a　general　thing　but　fish；　a　pair　of　canoeists　could　not　　be　thus　vulgarly　explained　away；　we　were　strange　and　picturesque　　intruders；　and　out　of　people's　wonder　sprang　a　sort　of　light　and　　passing　intimacy　all　along　our　route。　　There　is　nothing　but　tit…　for…tat　in　this　world；　though　sometimes　it　be　a　little　difficult　to　　trace：　　for　the　scores　are　older　than　we　ourselves；　and　there　has　　never　yet　been　a　settling…day　since　things　were。　　You　get　　entertainment　pretty　much　in　proportion　as　you　give。　　As　long　as　we　　were　a　sort　of　odd　wanderers；　to　be　stared　at　and　followed　like　a　　quack　doctor　or　a　caravan；　we　had　no　want　of　amusement　in　return；　　but　as　soon　as　we　sank　into　commonplace　ourselves；　all　whom　we　met　　were　similarly　disenchanted。　　And　here　is　one　reason　of　a　dozen；　　why　the　world　is　dull　to　dull　persons。
  In　our　earlier　adventures　there　was　generally　something　to　do；　and　　that　quickened　us。　　Even　the　showers　of　rain　had　a　revivifying　　effect；　and　shook　up　the　brain　from　torpor。　　But　now；　when　the　　river　no　longer　ran　in　a　proper　sense；　only　glided　seaward　with　an　　even；　outright；　but　imperceptible　speed；　and　when　the　sky　smiled　　upon　us　day　after　day　without　variety；　we　began　to　slip　into　that　　golden　doze　of　the　mind　which　follows　upon　much　exercise　in　the　　open　air。　　I　have　stupefied　myself　in　this