he　will　have　a　bottle　of　the　best　in　every　　inn；　and　look　upon　all　his　extravagances　as　so　much　gained　upon　the　　thieves。　　And　above　all；　where　instead　of　simply　spending；　he　makes　　a　profitable　investment　for　some　of　his　money；　when　it　will　be　out　　of　risk　of　loss。　　So　every　bit　of　brisk　living；　and　above　all　when　　it　is　healthful；　is　just　so　much　gained　upon　the　wholesale　filcher；　　death。　　We　shall　have　the　less　in　our　pockets；　the　more　in　our　　stomach；　when　he　cries　stand　and　deliver。　　A　swift　stream　is　a　　favourite　artifice　of　his；　and　one　that　brings　him　in　a　comfortable　　thing　per　annum；　but　when　he　and　I　come　to　settle　our　accounts；　I　　shall　whistle　in　his　face　for　these　hours　upon　the　upper　Oise。
  Towards　afternoon　we　got　fairly　drunken　with　the　sunshine　and　the　　exhilaration　of　the　pace。　　We　could　no　longer　contain　ourselves　and　　our　content。　　The　canoes　were　too　small　for　us；　we　must　be　out　and　　stretch　ourselves　on　shore。　　And　so　in　a　green　meadow　we　bestowed　　our　limbs　on　the　grass；　and　smoked　deifying　tobacco　and　proclaimed　　the　world　excellent。　　It　was　the　last　good　hour　of　the　day；　and　I　　dwell　upon　it　with　extreme　complacency。
  On　one　side　of　the　valley；　high　up　on　the　chalky　summit　of　the　　hill；　a　ploughman　with　his　team　appeared　and　disappeared　at　regular　　intervals。　　At　each　revelation　he　stood　still　for　a　few　seconds　　against　the　sky：　　for　all　the　world　（as　the　CIGARETTE　declared）　　like　a　toy　Burns　who　should　have　just　ploughed　up　the　Mountain　　Daisy。　　He　was　the　only　living　thing　within　view；　unless　we　are　to　　count　the　river。
  On　the　other　side　of　the　valley　a　group　of　red　roofs　and　a　belfry　　showed　among　the　foliage。　　Thence　some　inspired　bell…ringer　made　　the　afternoon　musical　on　a　chime　of　bells。　　There　was　something　　very　sweet　and　taking　in　the　air　he　played；　and　we　thought　we　had　　never　heard　bells　speak　so　intelligibly；　or　sing　so　melodiously；　as　　these。　　It　must　have　been　to　some　such　measure　that　the　spinners　　and　the　young　maids　sang；　'Come　away；　Death；'　in　the　Shakespearian　　Illyria。　　There　is　so　often　a　threatening　note；　something　blatant　　and　metallic；　in　the　voice　of　bells；　that　I　believe　we　have　fully　　more　pain　than　pleasure　from　hearing　them；　but　these；　as　they　　sounded　abroad；　now　high；　now　low；　now　with　a　plaintive　cadence　　that　caught　the　ear　like　the　burthen　of　a　popular　song；　were　always　　moderate　and　tunable；　and　seemed　to　fall　in　with　the　spirit　of　　still；　rustic　places；　like　the　noise　of　a　waterfall　or　the　babble　　of　a　rookery　in　spring。　　I　could　have　asked　the　bell…ringer　for　his　　blessing；　good；　sedate　old　man；　who　swung　the　rope　so　gently　to　the　　time　of　his　meditations。　　I　could　have　blessed　the　priest　or　the　　heritors；　or　whoever　may　be　concerned　with　such　affairs　in　France；　　who　had　left　these　sweet　old　bells　to　gladden　the　afternoon；　and　　not　held　meetings；　and　made　collections；　and　had　their　names　　repeatedly　printed　in　the　local　paper；　to　rig　up　a　peal　of　brand…　new；　brazen；　Birmingham…hearted　substitutes；　who　should　bombard　　their　sides　to　the　provocation　of　a　brand…new　bell…ringer；　and　fill　　the　echoes　of　the　valley　with　terror　and　riot。
  At　last　the　bells　ceased；　and　with　their　note　the　sun　withdrew。　　　The　piece　was　at　an　end；　shadow　and　silence　possessed　the　valley　of　　the　Oise。　　We　took　to　the　paddle　with　glad　hearts；　like　people　who　　have　sat　out　a　noble　performance　and　returned　to　work。　　The　river　　was　more　dangerous　here；　it　ran　swifter；　the　eddies　were　more　　sudden　and　violent。　　All　the　way　down　we　had　had　our　fill　of　　difficulties。　　Sometimes　it　was　a　weir　which　could　be　shot；　　sometimes　one　so　shallow　and　full　of　stakes　that　we　must　withdraw　　the　boats　from　the　water　and　carry　them　round。　　But　the　chief　sort　　of　obstacle　was　a　consequence　of　the　late　high　winds。　　Every　two　or　　three　hundred　yards　a　tree　had　fallen　across　the　river；　and　usually　　involved　more　than　another　in　its　fall。
  Often　there　was　free　water　at　the　end；　and　we　could　steer　round　the　　leafy　promontory　and　hear　the　water　sucking　and　bubbling　among　the　　twigs。　　Often；　again；　when　the　tree　reached　from　bank　to　bank；　　there　was　room；　by　lying　close；　to　shoot　through　underneath；　canoe　　and　all。　　Sometimes　it　was　necessary　to　get　out　upon　the　trunk　　itself　and　pull　the　boats　across；　and　sometimes；　when　the　stream　　was　too　impetuous　for　this；　there　was　nothing　for　it　but　to　land　　and　'carry　over。'　　This　made　a　fine　series　of　accidents　in　the　　day's　career；　and　kept　us　aware　of　ourselves。
  Shortly　after　our　re…embarkation；　while　I　was　leading　by　a　long　　way；　and　still　full　of　a　noble；　exulting　spirit　in　honour　of　the　　sun；　the　swift　pace；　and　the　church　bells；　the　river　made　one　of　　its　leonine　pounces　round　a　corner；　and　I　was　aware　of　another　　fallen　tree　within　a　stone…cast。　　I　had　my　backboard　down　in　a　　trice；　and　aimed　for　a　place　where　the　trunk　seemed　high　enough　　above　the　water；　and　the　branches　not　too　thick　to　let　me　slip　　below。　　When　a　man　has　just　vowed　eternal　brotherhood　with　the　　universe；　he　is　not　in　a　temper　to　take　great　determinations　　coolly；　and　this；　which　might　have　been　a　very　important　　determination　for　me；　had　not　been　taken　under　a　happy　star。　　The　　tree　caught　me　about　the　chest；　and　while　I　was　yet　struggling　to　　make　less　of　myself　and　get　through；　the　river　took　the　matter　out　　of　my　hands；　and　bereaved　me　of　my　boat。　　The　ARETHUSA　swung　round　　broadside　on；　leaned　over；　ejected　so　much　of　me　as　still　remained　　on　board；　and　thus　disencumbered；　whipped　under　the　tree；　righted；　　and　went　merrily　away　down　stream。
  I　do　not　know　how　long　it　was　before　I　scrambled　on　to　the　tree　to　　which　I　was　left　clinging；　but　it　was　longer　than　I　cared　about。　　　My　thoughts　were　of　a　grave　and　almost　sombre　character；　but　I　　still　clung　to　my　paddle。　　The　stream　ran　away　with　my　heels　as　　fast　as　I　could　pull　up　my　shoulders；　and　I　seemed；　by　the　weight；　　to　have　all　the　water　of　the　Oise　in　my　trousers…pockets。　　You　can　　never　know；　till　you　try　it；　what　a　dead　pull　a　river　makes　against　　a　man。　　Death　himself　had　me　by　the　heels；　for　this　was　his　last　　ambuscado；　and　he　must　now　join　personally　in　the　fray。　　And　still　　I　held　to　my　paddle。　　At　last　I　dragged　myself　on　to　my　stomach　on　　the　trunk；　and　lay　there　a　breathless　sop；　with　a　mingled　sense　of　　humour　and　injustice。　　A　poor　figure　I　must　have　presented　to　Burns　　upon　the　hill…top　with　his　team。　　But　there　was　the　paddle　in　my　　hand。　　On　my　tomb；　if　ever　I　have　one；　I　mean　to　get　these　words　　inscribed：　　'He　clung　to　his　paddle。'
  The　CIGARETTE　had　gone　past　a　while　before；　for；　as　I　might　have　　observed；　if　I　had　been　a　little　less　pleased　with　the　universe　at　　the　moment；　there　was　a　clear　way　round　the　tree…top　at　the　farther　　side。　　He　had　offered　his　services　to　haul　me　out；　but　as　I　was　　then　already　on　my　elbows；　I　had　declined；　and　sent　him　down　stream　　after　the　truant　ARETHUSA。　　The　stream　was　too　rapid　for　a　man　to　　mount　with　one　canoe；　let　alone　two；　upon　his　hands。　　So　I　crawled　　along　the　trunk　to　shore；　and　proceeded　down　the　meadows　by　the　　river…side。　　I　was　so　cold　that　my　heart　was　sore。　　I　had　now　an　　idea　of　my　own　why　the　reeds　so　bitterly　shivered。　　I　could　have　　given　any　of　them　a　lesson。　　The　CIGARETTE　remarked　facetiously　　that　he　thought　I　was　'taking　exercise'　as　I　drew　near；　until　he　　made　out　for　certain　that　I　was　only　twittering　with　cold。　　I　had　a　　rub　down　with　a　towel；　and　donned　a　dry　suit　from　the　india…rubber　　bag。　　But　I　was　not　my　own　man　again　for　the　rest　of　the　voyage。　　I　　had　a　queasy　sense　that　I　wore　my　last　dry　clothes　upon　my　body。　　　The　struggle　had　tired　me；　and　perhaps；　whether　I　knew　it　or　not；　I　　was　a　little　dashed　in　spirit。　　The　devouring　element　in　the　　universe　had　leaped　out　against　me；　in　this　green　valley　quickened　　by　a　running　stream。　　The　bells　were　all　very　pretty　in　their　way；　　but　I　had　heard　some　of　the　hollow　notes　of　Pan's　music。　　Would　the　　wicked　river　drag　me　down　by　the　heels；　indeed？　and　look　so　　beautiful　all　the　time？　　Nature's　good…humour　was　only　skin…deep　　after　all。
  There　was　still　a　long　way　to　go　by　the　winding　course　of　the　　stream；　and　darkness　had　fallen；　and　a　late　bell　was　ringing　in　　Origny　Sainte…Benoite；　when　we　arrived。
  ORIGNY　SAINTE…BENOITE
  A　BY…DAY
  THE　next　day　was　Sunday；　and　the　church　bells　had　little　rest；　　indeed；　I　do　not　think　I　remember　anywhere　else　so　great　a　choice　　of　services　as　were　here　offered　to　the　devout。　　And　while　the　　bells　made　merry　in　the　sunshine；　all　the　world　with　his　dog　was　　out　shooting　among　the　beets　and　colza。
  In　the　morning　a　hawker　and　his　wife　went　down　the　street　at　a　　foot…pace；　singing　to　a　very　slow；　lamentable　music　'O　FRANCE；　MES　　AMOURS。'　　It　brought　everybody　to　the　door；　and　when　our　landlady　　called　in　the　man　to　buy　the　words；　he　had　not　a　copy　of　them　left。　　　She　was　not　the　first　nor　the　second　who　had　been　taken　with　the　　song。　　There　is　something　very　pathetic　in　the　love　of　the　French　　people；　since　the　war；　for　dismal　patriotic　music…making。　　I　have　　watched　a　forester　from　Alsace　while　some　one　was　singing　'LES　　MALHEURS　DE　LA　FRANCE；'　at　a　baptismal　party　in　the　neighbourhood　　of　Fontainebleau。　　He　arose　from　the　table　and　took　his　son　aside；　　c