st　appearance；　we　should　behold　him　vanish　with　　comparative　equanimity。
  The　good　folk　of　the　inn　at　Pont；　when　we　called　there　for　the　　bags；　were　overcome　with　marvelling。　　At　sight　of　these　two　dainty　　little　boats；　with　a　fluttering　Union　Jack　on　each；　and　all　the　　varnish　shining　from　the　sponge；　they　began　to　perceive　that　they　　had　entertained　angels　unawares。　　The　landlady　stood　upon　the　　bridge；　probably　lamenting　she　had　charged　so　little；　the　son　ran　　to　and　fro；　and　called　out　the　neighbours　to　enjoy　the　sight；　and　　we　paddled　away　from　quite　a　crowd　of　wrapt　observers。　　These　　gentlemen　pedlars；　indeed！　　Now　you　see　their　quality　too　late。
  The　whole　day　was　showery；　with　occasional　drenching　plumps。　　We　　were　soaked　to　the　skin；　then　partially　dried　in　the　sun；　then　　soaked　once　more。　　But　there　were　some　calm　intervals；　and　one　　notably；　when　we　were　skirting　the　forest　of　Mormal；　a　sinister　　name　to　the　ear；　but　a　place　most　gratifying　to　sight　and　smell。　　　It　looked　solemn　along　the　river…side；　drooping　its　boughs　into　the　　water；　and　piling　them　up　aloft　into　a　wall　of　leaves。　　What　is　a　　forest　but　a　city　of　nature's　own；　full　of　hardy　and　innocuous　　living　things；　where　there　is　nothing　dead　and　nothing　made　with　　the　hands；　but　the　citizens　themselves　are　the　houses　and　public　　monuments？　　There　is　nothing　so　much　alive；　and　yet　so　quiet；　as　a　　woodland；　and　a　pair　of　people；　swinging　past　in　canoes；　feel　very　　small　and　bustling　by　comparison。
  And　surely　of　all　smells　in　the　world；　the　smell　of　many　trees　is　　the　sweetest　and　most　fortifying。　　The　sea　has　a　rude；　pistolling　　sort　of　odour；　that　takes　you　in　the　nostrils　like　snuff；　and　　carries　with　it　a　fine　sentiment　of　open　water　and　tall　ships；　but　　the　smell　of　a　forest；　which　comes　nearest　to　this　in　tonic　　quality；　surpasses　it　by　many　degrees　in　the　quality　of　softness。　　　Again；　the　smell　of　the　sea　has　little　variety；　but　the　smell　of　a　　forest　is　infinitely　changeful；　it　varies　with　the　hour　of　the　day；　　not　in　strength　merely；　but　in　character；　and　the　different　sorts　　of　trees；　as　you　go　from　one　zone　of　the　wood　to　another；　seem　to　　live　among　different　kinds　of　atmosphere。　　Usually　the　resin　of　the　　fir　predominates。　　But　some　woods　are　more　coquettish　in　their　　habits；　and　the　breath　of　the　forest　of　Mormal；　as　it　came　aboard　　upon　us　that　showery　afternoon；　was　perfumed　with　nothing　less　　delicate　than　sweetbrier。
  I　wish　our　way　had　always　lain　among　woods。　　Trees　are　the　most　　civil　society。　　An　old　oak　that　has　been　growing　where　he　stands　　since　before　the　Reformation；　taller　than　many　spires；　more　stately　　than　the　greater　part　of　mountains；　and　yet　a　living　thing；　liable　　to　sicknesses　and　death；　like　you　and　me：　　is　not　that　in　itself　a　　speaking　lesson　in　history？　　But　acres　on　acres　full　of　such　　patriarchs　contiguously　rooted；　their　green　tops　billowing　in　the　　wind；　their　stalwart　younglings　pushing　up　about　their　knees：　　a　　whole　forest；　healthy　and　beautiful；　giving　colour　to　the　light；　　giving　perfume　to　the　air：　　what　is　this　but　the　most　imposing　　piece　in　nature's　repertory？　　Heine　wished　to　lie　like　Merlin　under　　the　oaks　of　Broceliande。　　I　should　not　be　satisfied　with　one　tree；　　but　if　the　wood　grew　together　like　a　banyan　grove；　I　would　be　　buried　under　the　tap…root　of　the　whole；　my　parts　should　circulate　　from　oak　to　oak；　and　my　consciousness　should　be　diffused　abroad　in　　all　the　forest；　and　give　a　common　heart　to　that　assembly　of　green　　spires；　so　that　it　also　might　rejoice　in　its　own　loveliness　and　　dignity。　　I　think　I　feel　a　thousand　squirrels　leaping　from　bough　to　　bough　in　my　vast　mausoleum；　and　the　birds　and　the　winds　merrily　　coursing　over　its　uneven；　leafy　surface。
  Alas！　the　forest　of　Mormal　is　only　a　little　bit　of　a　wood；　and　it　　was　but　for　a　little　way　that　we　skirted　by　its　boundaries。　　And　　the　rest　of　the　time　the　rain　kept　coming　in　squirts　and　the　wind　　in　squalls；　until　one's　heart　grew　weary　of　such　fitful；　scolding　　weather。　　It　was　odd　how　the　showers　began　when　we　had　to　carry　the　　boats　over　a　lock；　and　must　expose　our　legs。　　They　always　did。　　　This　is　a　sort　of　thing　that　readily　begets　a　personal　feeling　　against　nature。　　There　seems　no　reason　why　the　shower　should　not　　come　five　minutes　before　or　five　minutes　after；　unless　you　suppose　　an　intention　to　affront　you。　　The　CIGARETTE　had　a　mackintosh　which　　put　him　more　or　less　above　these　contrarieties。　　But　I　had　to　bear　　the　brunt　uncovered。　　I　began　to　remember　that　nature　was　a　woman。　　　My　companion；　in　a　rosier　temper；　listened　with　great　satisfaction　　to　my　Jeremiads；　and　ironically　concurred。　　He　instanced；　as　a　　cognate　matter；　the　action　of　the　tides；　'which；'　said　he；　'was　　altogether　designed　for　the　confusion　of　canoeists；　except　in　so　　far　as　it　was　calculated　to　minister　to　a　barren　vanity　on　the　part　　of　the　moon。'
  At　the　last　lock；　some　little　way　out　of　Landrecies；　I　refused　to　　go　any　farther；　and　sat　in　a　drift　of　rain　by　the　side　of　the　bank；　　to　have　a　reviving　pipe。　　A　vivacious　old　man；　whom　I　take　to　have　　been　the　devil；　drew　near　and　questioned　me　about　our　journey。　　In　　the　fulness　of　my　heart；　I　laid　bare　our　plans　before　him。　　He　said　　it　was　the　silliest　enterprise　that　ever　he　heard　of。　　Why；　did　I　　not　know；　he　asked　me；　that　it　was　nothing　but　locks；　locks；　locks；　　the　whole　way？　not　to　mention　that；　at　this　season　of　the　year；　we　　should　find　the　Oise　quite　dry？　　'Get　into　a　train；　my　little　young　　man；'　said　he；　I　and　go　you　away　home　to　your　parents。'　　I　was　so　　astounded　at　the　man's　malice；　that　I　could　only　stare　at　him　in　　silence。　　A　tree　would　never　have　spoken　to　me　like　this。　　At　last　　I　got　out　with　some　words。　　We　had　come　from　Antwerp　already；　I　　told　him；　which　was　a　good　long　way；　and　we　should　do　the　rest　in　　spite　of　him。　　Yes；　I　said；　if　there　were　no　other　reason；　I　would　　do　it　now；　just　because　he　had　dared　to　say　we　could　not。　　The　　pleasant　old　gentleman　looked　at　me　sneeringly；　made　an　allusion　to　　my　canoe；　and　marched　of；　waggling　his　head。
  I　was　still　inwardly　fuming；　when　up　came　a　pair　of　young　fellows；　　who　imagined　I　was　the　CIGARETTE'S　servant；　on　a　comparison；　I　　suppose；　of　my　bare　jersey　with　the　other's　mackintosh；　and　asked　　me　many　questions　about　my　place　and　my　master's　character。　　I　said　　he　was　a　good　enough　fellow；　but　had　this　absurd　voyage　on　the　　head。　　'O　no；　no；'　said　one；　'you　must　not　say　that；　it　is　not　　absurd；　it　is　very　courageous　of　him。'　　I　believe　these　were　a　　couple　of　angels　sent　to　give　me　heart　again。　　It　was　truly　　fortifying　to　reproduce　all　the　old　man's　insinuations；　as　if　they　　were　original　to　me　in　my　character　of　a　malcontent　footman；　and　　have　them　brushed　away　like　so　many　flies　by　these　admirable　young　　men。
  When　I　recounted　this　affair　to　the　CIGARETTE；　'They　must　have　a　　curious　idea　of　how　English　servants　behave；'　says　he　dryly；　'for　　you　treated　me　like　a　brute　beast　at　the　lock。'
  I　was　a　good　deal　mortified；　but　my　temper　had　suffered；　it　is　a　　fact。
  AT　LANDRECIES
  AT　Landrecies　the　rain　still　fell　and　the　wind　still　blew；　but　we　　found　a　double…bedded　room　with　plenty　of　furniture；　real　water…　jugs　with　real　water　in　them；　and　dinner：　　a　real　dinner；　not　　innocent　of　real　wine。　　After　having　been　a　pedlar　for　one　night；　　and　a　butt　for　the　elements　during　the　whole　of　the　next　day；　these　　comfortable　circumstances　fell　on　my　heart　like　sunshine。　　There　　was　an　English　fruiterer　at　dinner；　travelling　with　a　Belgian　　fruiterer；　in　the　evening　at　the　CAFE；　we　watched　our　compatriot　　drop　a　good　deal　of　money　at　corks；　and　I　don't　know　why；　but　this　　pleased　us。
  It　turned　out　we　were　to　see　more　of　Landrecies　than　we　expected；　　for　the　weather　next　day　was　simply　bedlamite。　　It　is　not　the　place　　one　would　have　chosen　for　a　day's　rest；　for　it　consists　almost　　entirely　of　fortifications。　　Within　the　ramparts；　a　few　blocks　of　　houses；　a　long　row　of　barracks；　and　a　church；　figure；　with　what　　countenance　they　may；　as　the　town。　　There　seems　to　be　no　trade；　and　　a　shopkeeper　from　whom　I　bought　a　sixpenny　flint…and…steel；　was　so　　much　affected　that　he　filled　my　pockets　with　spare　flints　into　the　　bargain。　　The　only　public　buildings　that　had　any　interest　for　us　　were　the　hotel　and　the　CAFE。　　But　we　visited　the　church。　　There　　lies　Marshal　Clarke。　　But　as　neither　of　us　had　ever　heard　of　that　　military　hero；　we　bore　the　associations　of　the　spot　with　fortitude。
  In　all　garrison　towns；　guard…calls；　and　REVEILLES；　and　such　like；　　make　a　fine　romantic　interlude　in　civic　business。　　Bugles；　and　　drums；　and　fifes；　are　of　themselves　most　excellent　things　in　　nature；　and　when　they　carry　the　mind　to　marching　armies；　and　the　　picturesque　vicissitudes　of　war；　they　stir　up　something　proud　in　　the　heart。　　But　in　a　shadow　of　a　town　like　Landrecies；　with　little　　else　moving；　these　points　of　war　made　a　proportionate　commotion。　　　Indeed；　they　were　the　only　things　to　remember。　　It　was　just　the　　place　to　hear　the　round　going　by　at　night　in　the　darkness；　with　the　　solid　tramp　of　men　marching；　and　the　startling　reverberations　of　　the　drum。　　It　reminded　you；　that　even　this　place　was　a　point　in　the　　great　warfaring　system　of　Europe；　and　might　on