and　with　a　　flavour　of　great　voyages。　　The　owner　of　the　granary　came　to　our　　assistance；　singled　out　one　little　fellow　and　threatened　him　with　　corporalities；　or　I　suspect　we　should　have　had　to　find　the　way　for　　ourselves。　　As　it　was；　he　was　more　frightened　at　the　granary　man　　than　the　strangers；　having　perhaps　had　some　experience　of　the　　former。　　But　I　fancy　his　little　heart　must　have　been　going　at　a　　fine　rate；　for　he　kept　trotting　at　a　respectful　distance　in　front；　　and　looking　back　at　us　with　scared　eyes。　　Not　otherwise　may　the　　children　of　the　young　world　have　guided　Jove　or　one　of　his　Olympian　　compeers　on　an　adventure。
  A　miry　lane　led　us　up　from　Quartes　with　its　church　and　bickering　　windmill。　　The　hinds　were　trudging　homewards　from　the　fields。　　A　　brisk　little　woman　passed　us　by。　　She　was　seated　across　a　donkey　　between　a　pair　of　glittering　milk…cans；　and；　as　she　went；　she　　kicked　jauntily　with　her　heels　upon　the　donkey's　side；　and　　scattered　shrill　remarks　among　the　wayfarers。　　It　was　notable　that　　none　of　the　tired　men　took　the　trouble　to　reply。　　Our　conductor　　soon　led　us　out　of　the　lane　and　across　country。　　The　sun　had　gone　　down；　but　the　west　in　front　of　us　was　one　lake　of　level　gold。　　The　　path　wandered　a　while　in　the　open；　and　then　passed　under　a　trellis　　like　a　bower　indefinitely　prolonged。　　On　either　hand　were　shadowy　　orchards；　cottages　lay　low　among　the　leaves；　and　sent　their　smoke　　to　heaven；　every　here　and　there；　in　an　opening；　appeared　the　great　　gold　face　of　the　west。
  I　never　saw　the　CIGARETTE　in　such　an　idyllic　frame　of　mind。　　He　　waxed　positively　lyrical　in　praise　of　country　scenes。　　I　was　little　　less　exhilarated　myself；　the　mild　air　of　the　evening；　the　shadows；　　the　rich　lights　and　the　silence；　made　a　symphonious　accompaniment　　about　our　walk；　and　we　both　determined　to　avoid　towns　for　the　　future　and　sleep　in　hamlets。
  At　last　the　path　went　between　two　houses；　and　turned　the　party　out　　into　a　wide　muddy　high…road；　bordered；　as　far　as　the　eye　could　　reach　on　either　hand；　by　an　unsightly　village。　　The　houses　stood　　well　back；　leaving　a　ribbon　of　waste　land　on　either　side　of　the　　road；　where　there　were　stacks　of　firewood；　carts；　barrows；　rubbish…　heaps；　and　a　little　doubtful　grass。　　Away　on　the　left；　a　gaunt　　tower　stood　in　the　middle　of　the　street。　　What　it　had　been　in　past　　ages；　I　know　not：　　probably　a　hold　in　time　of　war；　but　now…a…days　　it　bore　an　illegible　dial…plate　in　its　upper　parts；　and　near　the　　bottom　an　iron　letter…box。
  The　inn　to　which　we　had　been　recommended　at　Quartes　was　full；　or　　else　the　landlady　did　not　like　our　looks。　　I　ought　to　say；　that　　with　our　long；　damp　india…rubber　bags；　we　presented　rather　a　　doubtful　type　of　civilisation：　　like　rag…and…bone　men；　the　　CIGARETTE　imagined。　　'These　gentlemen　are　pedlars？　…　CES　MESSIEURS　　SONT　DES　MARCHANDS？'　…　asked　the　landlady。　　And　then；　without　　waiting　for　an　answer；　which　I　suppose　she　thought　superfluous　in　　so　plain　a　case；　recommended　us　to　a　butcher　who　lived　hard　by　the　　tower；　and　took　in　travellers　to　lodge。
  Thither　went　we。　　But　the　butcher　was　flitting；　and　all　his　beds　　were　taken　down。　　Or　else　he　didn't　like　our　look。　　As　a　parting　　shot；　we　had　'These　gentlemen　are　pedlars？'
  It　began　to　grow　dark　in　earnest。　　We　could　no　longer　distinguish　　the　faces　of　the　people　who　passed　us　by　with　an　inarticulate　good…　evening。　　And　the　householders　of　Pont　seemed　very　economical　with　　their　oil；　for　we　saw　not　a　single　window　lighted　in　all　that　long　　village。　　I　believe　it　is　the　longest　village　in　the　world；　but　I　　daresay　in　our　predicament　every　pace　counted　three　times　over。　　We　　were　much　cast　down　when　we　came　to　the　last　auberge；　and　looking　　in　at　the　dark　door；　asked　timidly　if　we　could　sleep　there　for　the　　night。　　A　female　voice　assented　in　no　very　friendly　tones。　　We　　clapped　the　bags　down　and　found　our　way　to　chairs。
  The　place　was　in　total　darkness；　save　a　red　glow　in　the　chinks　and　　ventilators　of　the　stove。　　But　now　the　landlady　lit　a　lamp　to　see　　her　new　guests；　I　suppose　the　darkness　was　what　saved　us　another　　expulsion；　for　I　cannot　say　she　looked　gratified　at　our　appearance。　　　We　were　in　a　large　bare　apartment；　adorned　with　two　allegorical　　prints　of　Music　and　Painting；　and　a　copy　of　the　law　against　public　　drunkenness。　　On　one　side；　there　was　a　bit　of　a　bar；　with　some　　half…a…dozen　bottles。　　Two　labourers　sat　waiting　supper；　in　　attitudes　of　extreme　weariness；　a　plain…looking　lass　bustled　about　　with　a　sleepy　child　of　two；　and　the　landlady　began　to　derange　the　　pots　upon　the　stove；　and　set　some　beefsteak　to　grill。
  'These　gentlemen　are　pedlars？'　she　asked　sharply。　　And　that　was　all　　the　conversation　forthcoming。　　We　began　to　think　we　might　be　　pedlars　after　all。　　I　never　knew　a　population　with　so　narrow　a　　range　of　conjecture　as　the　innkeepers　of　Pont…sur…Sambre。　　But　　manners　and　bearing　have　not　a　wider　currency　than　bank…notes。　　You　　have　only　to　get　far　enough　out　of　your　beat；　and　all　your　　accomplished　airs　will　go　for　nothing。　　These　Hainaulters　could　see　　no　difference　between　us　and　the　average　pedlar。　　Indeed　we　had　　some　grounds　for　reflection　while　the　steak　was　getting　ready；　to　　see　how　perfectly　they　accepted　us　at　their　own　valuation；　and　how　　our　best　politeness　and　best　efforts　at　entertainment　seemed　to　fit　　quite　suitably　with　the　character　of　packmen。　　At　least　it　seemed　a　　good　account　of　the　profession　in　France；　that　even　before　such　　judges　we　could　not　beat　them　at　our　own　weapons。
  At　last　we　were　called　to　table。　　The　two　hinds　（and　one　of　them　　looked　sadly　worn　and　white　in　the　face；　as　though　sick　with　over…　work　and　under…feeding）　supped　off　a　single　plate　of　some　sort　of　　bread…berry；　some　potatoes　in　their　jackets；　a　small　cup　of　coffee　　sweetened　with　sugar…candy；　and　one　tumbler　of　swipes。　　The　　landlady；　her　son；　and　the　lass　aforesaid；　took　the　same。　　Our　meal　　was　quite　a　banquet　by　comparison。　　We　had　some　beefsteak；　not　so　　tender　as　it　might　have　been；　some　of　the　potatoes；　some　cheese；　an　　extra　glass　of　the　swipes；　and　white　sugar　in　our　coffee。
  You　see　what　it　is　to　be　a　gentleman　…　I　beg　your　pardon；　what　it　　is　to　be　a　pedlar。　　It　had　not　before　occurred　to　me　that　a　pedlar　　was　a　great　man　in　a　labourer's　ale…house；　but　now　that　I　had　to　　enact　the　part　for　an　evening；　I　found　that　so　it　was。　　He　has　in　　his　hedge　quarters　somewhat　the　same　pre…eminency　as　the　man　who　　takes　a　private　parlour　in　an　hotel。　　The　more　you　look　into　it；　　the　more　infinite　are　the　class　distinctions　among　men；　and　　possibly；　by　a　happy　dispensation；　there　is　no　one　at　all　at　the　　bottom　of　the　scale；　no　one　but　can　find　some　superiority　over　　somebody　else；　to　keep　up　his　pride　withal。
  We　were　displeased　enough　with　our　fare。　　Particularly　the　　CIGARETTE；　for　I　tried　to　make　believe　that　I　was　amused　with　the　　adventure；　tough　beefsteak　and　all。　　According　to　the　Lucretian　　maxim；　our　steak　should　have　been　flavoured　by　the　look　of　the　　other　people's　bread…berry。　　But　we　did　not　find　it　so　in　practice。　　　You　may　have　a　head…knowledge　that　other　people　live　more　poorly　　than　yourself；　but　it　is　not　agreeable　…　I　was　going　to　say；　it　is　　against　the　etiquette　of　the　universe　…　to　sit　at　the　same　table　　and　pick　your　own　superior　diet　from　among　their　crusts。　　I　had　not　　seen　such　a　thing　done　since　the　greedy　boy　at　school　with　his　　birthday　cake。　　It　was　odious　enough　to　witness；　I　could　remember；　　and　I　had　never　thought　to　play　the　part　myself。　　But　there　again　　you　see　what　it　is　to　be　a　pedlar。
  There　is　no　doubt　that　the　poorer　classes　in　our　country　are　much　　more　charitably　disposed　than　their　superiors　in　wealth。　　And　I　　fancy　it　must　arise　a　great　deal　from　the　comparative　indistinction　　of　the　easy　and　the　not　so　easy　in　these　ranks。　　A　workman　or　a　　pedlar　cannot　shutter　himself　off　from　his　less　comfortable　　neighbours。　　If　he　treats　himself　to　a　luxury；　he　must　do　it　in　the　　face　of　a　dozen　who　cannot。　　And　what　should　more　directly　lead　to　　charitable　thoughts？　。　。　。　Thus　the　poor　man；　camping　out　in　life；　　sees　it　as　it　is；　and　knows　that　every　mouthful　he　puts　in　his　　belly　has　been　wrenched　out　of　the　fingers　of　the　hungry。
  But　at　a　certain　stage　of　prosperity；　as　in　a　balloon　ascent；　the　　fortunate　person　passes　through　a　zone　of　clouds；　and　sublunary　　matters　are　thenceforward　hidden　from　his　view。　　He　sees　nothing　　but　the　heavenly　bodies；　all　in　admirable　order；　and　positively　as　　good　as　new。　　He　finds　himself　surrounded　in　the　most　touching　　manner　by　the　attentions　of　Providence；　and　compares　himself　　involuntarily　with　the　lilies　and　the　skylarks。　　He　does　not　　precisely　sing；　of　course；　but　then　he　looks　so　unassuming　in　his　　open　landau！　　If　all　the　world　dined　at　one　table；　this　philosophy　　would　meet　with　some　rude　knocks。
  PONT…SUR…SAMBRE
  THE　TRAVELLING　MERCHANT
  LIKE　the　lackeys　in　Moliere's　farce；　when　the　true　nobleman　broke　　in　on　their　high　life　below　stairs；　we　were　destined　to　be　　confronted　with　a　real　pedlar。　　To　make　the　lesson　still　more　　poignant　for　fallen　gentlemen　like　us；　he　was　a　pedlar　of　　infinitely　more　consideration　than　the　sort　of　scurvy　fellows　we　　were　taken　for：　　like　a　lion　among　mice；　or　a　shi