第 34 节
作者:生在秋天      更新:2023-05-17 13:24      字数:9316
  under   no   circumstances;   may   you   at   any   time   in   Germany   walk   on   the
  grass。    Grass in Germany is quite a fetish。             To put your foot on German
  grass    would     be   as   great   a  sacrilege     as  to   dance    a  hornpipe     on    a
  Mohammedan's   praying…mat。              The   very   dogs   respect   German   grass;   no
  German   dog   would   dream   of   putting   a   paw   on   it。       If   you   see   a   dog
  scampering across the grass in Germany; you may know for certain that it
  is the dog of some unholy foreigner。             In England; when we want to keep
  dogs   out   of   places;   we   put   up   wire   netting;   six   feet   high;   supported   by
  buttresses;   and   defended   on   the   top   by  spikes。    In   Germany;   they  put   a
  notice…board in the middle of the place; 〃Hunden verboten;〃 and a dog that
  has German blood in its veins looks at that notice…board and walks away。
  In a German park I have seen a gardener step gingerly with felt boots on to
  grass…plot; and removing therefrom a beetle; place it gravely but firmly on
  the gravel; which done; he stood sternly watching the beetle; to see that it
  did    not  try   to  get  back    on  the   grass;   and   the   beetle;   looking    utterly
  ashamed   of   itself;   walked   hurriedly   down   the   gutter;   and   turned   up   the
  path marked 〃Ausgang。〃
  In German parks separate roads are devoted to the different orders of
  the community; and no one person; at peril of liberty and fortune; may go
  upon   another   person's   road。      There   are   special   paths   for   〃wheel…riders〃
  and   special   paths   for   〃foot…goers;〃   avenues   for   〃horse…riders;〃   roads   for
  people in light vehicles; and roads for people in heavy vehicles; ways for
  children and for 〃alone ladies。〃           That no particular route has yet been set
  aside for bald…headed men or 〃new women〃 has always struck me as an
  omission。
  In   the   Grosse   Garten   in   Dresden   I   once   came   across   an   old   lady;
  standing; helpless and bewildered; in the centre of seven tracks。 Each was
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  guarded by a threatening notice; warning everybody off it but the person
  for whom it was intended。
  〃I am sorry to trouble you;〃 said the old lady; on learning I could speak
  English and read German; 〃but would you mind telling me what I am and
  where I have to go?〃
  I   inspected   her   carefully。   I   came   to   the   conclusion   that   she   was   a
  〃grown…up〃 and a 〃foot…goer;〃 and pointed out her path。                  She looked at it;
  and seemed disappointed。
  〃But I don't want to go down there;〃 she said; 〃mayn't I go this way?〃
  〃Great   heavens;   no;   madam!〃   I   replied。      〃That   path   is   reserved   for
  children。〃
  〃But I wouldn't do them any harm;〃 said the old lady; with a smile。 She
  did not look the sort of old lady who would have done them any harm。
  〃Madam;〃 I replied; 〃if it rested with me; I would trust you down that
  path;   though   my   own   first…born   were   at   the   other   end;   but   I   can   only
  inform you of the laws of this country。            For you; a full… grown woman; to
  venture     down    that   path  is  to  go   to  certain   fine;  if  not  imprisonment。
  There is   your   path;  marked   plainlyNur fur   Fussganger;  and if   you   will
  follow my advice; you will hasten down it; you are not allowed to stand
  here and hesitate。〃
  〃It doesn't lead a bit in the direction I want to go;〃 said the old lady。
  〃It leads in the direction you OUGHT to want to go;〃 I replied; and we
  parted。
  In the German parks there are special seats labelled; 〃Only for grown…
  ups〃   (Nur   fur   Erwachsene);   and   the   German   small   boy;   anxious   to   sit
  down;  and   reading   that   notice;  passes by;   and   hunts   for   a   seat on   which
  children   are   permitted   to   rest;   and   there   he   seats   himself;   careful   not   to
  touch the woodwork with his muddy boots。 Imagine a seat in Regent's or
  St。   James's   Park   labelled   〃Only   for   grown…ups!〃        Every   child   for   five
  miles round would be trying to get on that seat; and hauling other children
  off who were on。         As for any 〃grown…up;〃 he would never be able to get
  within half a mile of that seat for the crowd。            The German small boy; who
  has accidentally sat down on such without noticing; rises with a start when
  his   error   is   pointed   out   to   him;   and   goes   away   with   down…cast   head;
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  brushing to the roots of his hair with shame and regret。
  Not that the German child is neglected by a paternal Government。 In
  German parks and public gardens special places (Spielplatze) are provided
  for him; each one supplied with a heap of sand。                There he can play to his
  heart's   content   at   making   mud   pies   and   building   sand   castles。      To   the
  German   child   a   pie   made   of   any   other   mud   than   this   would   appear   an
  immoral      pie。   It   would    give   to  him    no   satisfaction:    his   soul   would
  revolt against it。
  〃That pie;〃 he would say to himself; 〃was not; as it should have been;
  made of Government mud specially set apart for the purpose; it was nor
  manufactured in the place planned and maintained by the Government for
  the   making   of   mud   pies。     It   can   bring   no   real   blessing   with   it;   it   is   a
  lawless pie。〃       And until his father had paid the proper fine; and he had
  received his proper licking; his conscience would continue to trouble him。
  Another      excellent    piece    of   material    for   obtaining     excitement     in
  Germany is the simple domestic perambulator。                  What you may do with a
  〃kinder…wagen;〃   as   it   is   called;   and   what   you   may   not;   covers   pages   of
  German law; after the reading of which; you conclude that the man who
  can push a perambulator through a German town without breaking the law
  was   meant   for   a diplomatist。       You   must   not  loiter   with   a   perambulator;
  and you must not go too fast。           You must not get in anybody's way with a
  perambulator; and if anybody gets in your way you must get out of their
  way。     If   you   want   to   stop   with   a   perambulator;   you   must   go   to   a   place
  specially   appointed   where   perambulators   may   stop;   and   when   you   get
  there you MUST stop。           You must not cross the road with a perambulator;
  if   you   and   the   baby   happen   to   live   on   the   other   side;   that   is   your   fault。
  You   must   not   leave   your   perambulator   anywhere;   and   only   in   certain
  places can you take it with you。           I should say that in Germany you could
  go out with a perambulator and get into enough trouble in half an hour to
  last you for a month。         Any young Englishman anxious for a row with the
  police   could   not   do   better   than   come   over   to   Germany   and   bring   his
  perambulator with him。
  In   Germany   you   must   not   leave   your   front   door   unlocked   after   ten
  o'clock at night; and you must not play the piano in your own house after
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  eleven。     In England I have never felt I wanted to play the piano myself;
  or to hear anyone else play it; after eleven o'clock at night; but that is a
  very   different   thing   to   being   told   that   you   must   not   play   it。 Here;   in
  Germany; I never feel that I really care for the piano until eleven o'clock;
  then   I   could   sit   and   listen   to   the   〃Maiden's   Prayer;〃   or   the   Overture   to
  〃Zampa;〃 with pleasure。           To the law…loving German; on the other hand;
  music after eleven o'clock at night ceases to be music; it becomes sin; and
  as such gives him no satisfaction。
  The only individual throughout Germany who ever dreams of taking
  liberties with the law is the German student; and he only to a certain well…
  defined   point。     By   custom;   certain   privileges   are   permitted   to   him;   but
  even these are strictly limited and clearly understood。                 For instance; the
  German student may get drunk and fall asleep in the gutter with no other
  penalty than that of having the next morning to tip the policeman who has
  found him and brought him home。                But for this purpose he must choose
  the gutters of side… streets。