第 29 节
作者:
吻火 更新:2022-08-26 22:13 字数:9321
r I told you that Eels do not usually stir in the daytime; for then they hide themselves under some covert; or under boards or planks about flood…gates; or weirs; or mills: or in holes on the river banks: so that you; observing your time in a warm day; when the water is lowest; may take a strong small hook; tied to a strong line; or to a string about a yard long; and then into one of these holes; or between any boards about a mill; or under any great stone or plank; or any place where you think an Eel may hide or shelter herself; you may; with the help of a short stick; put in y our bait; but leisurely; and as far as you may conveniently; and it is scarce to be doubted; but if there be an Eel within the sight of it; the Eel will bite instantly; and as certainly gorge it; and you need not doubt to have him if you pull him not out of the hole too quickly; but pull him out by degrees; for he; lying folded double in his hole; will; with the help of his tail; break all; unless you give him time to be wearied with pulling; and so get him out by degrees; not pulling too hard。
And to commute for your patient hearing this long direction; I shall next tell you; How to make this Eel a most excellent dish of meat。
First; wash him in water and salt; then pull off his skin below his vent or navel; and not much further: having done that; take out his guts as clean as you can; but wash him not: then give him three or four scotches with a knife; and then put into his belly and those scotches; sweet herbs; an anchovy; and a little nutmeg grated or cut very small; and your herbs and anchovies must also be cut very small; and mixt with good butter and salt: having done this; then pull his skin over him; all but his head; which you are to cut off; to the end you may tie his skin about that part where his head grew; and it must be so tied as to keep all his moisture within his skin: and having done this; tie him with tape or packthread to a spit; and roast him leisurely; and baste him with water and salt till his skin breaks; and then with butter; and having roasted him enough; let what was put into his belly; and what he drips; be his sauce。 S。 F。
When I go to dress an Eel thus; I wish he were as long and as big as that which was caught in Peterborough river; in the year 1667; which was a yard and three quarters long。 If you will not believe me; then go and see at one of the coffee…houses in King Street in Westminster。
But now let me tell you; that though the Eel; thus drest; be not only excellent good; but more harmless than any other way; yet it is certain that physicians account the Eel dangerous meat; I will advise you therefore; as Solomon says of honey; 〃 Hast thou found it; eat no more than is sufficient; lest thou surfeit; for it is not good to eat much honey 〃。 And let me add this; that the uncharitable Italian bids us 〃 give Eels and no wine to our enemies 〃。
And I will beg a little more of your attention; to tell you; that Aldrovandus; and divers physicians; commend the Eel very much for medicine; though not for meat。 But let me tell you one observation; that the Eel is never out of season; as Trouts; and most other fish; are at set times; at least; most Eels are not。
I might here speak of many other fish; whose shape and nature are much like the Eel; and frequent both the sea and fresh rivers; as; namely; the Lamprel; the Lamprey; and the Lamperne: as also of the mighty Conger; taken often in Severn; about Gloucester: and might also tell in what high esteem many of them are for the curiosity of their taste。 But these are not so proper to be talked of by me; because they make us anglers no sport; therefore I will let them alone; as the Jews do; to whom they are forbidden by their law。
And; scholar; there is also a FLOUNDER; a sea…fish which will wander very far into fresh rivers; and there lose himself and dwell: and thrive to a hand's breadth; and almost twice so long: a fish without scales; and most excellent meat: and a fish that affords much sport to the angler; with any small worm; but especially a little bluish worm; gotten out of marsh…ground; or meadows; which should be well scoured。 But this; though it be most excellent meat; yet it wants scales; and is; as I told you; therefore an abomination to the Jews。
But; scholar; there is a fish that they in Lancashire boast very much of; called a CHAR; taken there; and I think there only; in a mere called Winander Mere; a mere; says Camden; that is the largest in this nation; being ten miles in length; and some say as smooth in the bottom as if it were paved with polished marble。 This fish never exceeds fifteen or sixteen inches in length; and is spotted like a Trout: and has scarce a bone; but on the back。 But this; though I do not know whether it make the angler sport; yet I would have you take notice of it; because it is a rarity; and of so high esteem with persons of great note。
Nor would I have you ignorant of a rare fish called a GUINIAD; of which I shall tell you what Camden and others speak。 The river Dee; which runs by Chester; springs in Merionethshire; and; as it runs toward Chester; it runs through Pemble Mere; which is a large water: and it is observed; that though the river Dee abounds with Salmon; and Pemble mere with the (Guiniad; yet there is never any Salmon caught in the mere; nor a Guiniad in the river。 And now my next observation shall be of the Barbel。
The fourth day…continued
Of the Barbel
Chapter XIV
Piscator; Venator; Milk…woman
Piscator。 The Barbel is so called; says Gesner; by reason of his barb or wattles at his mouth; which are under his nose or chaps。 He is one of those leather…mouthed fishes that I told you of; that does very seldom break his hold if he be once hooked: but he is so strong; that he will often break both rod and line; if he proves to be a big one。
But the Barbel; though he be of a fine shape; and looks big; yet he is not accounted the best fish to eat; neither for his wholesomeness nor his taste; but the male is reputed much better than the female; whose spawn is very hurtful; as I will presently declare to you。
They flock together like sheep; and are at the worst in April; about which time they spawn; but quickly grow to be in season。 He is able to live in the strongest swifts of the water: and; in summer; they love the shallowest and sharpest streams: and love to lurk under weeds; and to feed on gravel; against a rising ground; and will root and dig in the sands with his nose like a hog; and there nests himself: yet sometimes he retires to deep and swift bridges; or flood…gates; or weir; where he will nest himself amongst piles; or in hollow places; and take such hold of moss or weeds; that be the water never so swift; it is not able to force him from the place that he contends for。 This is his constant custom in summer; when he and most living creatures sport themselves in the sun: but at the approach of winter; then he forsakes the swift streams and shallow waters; and; by degrees; retires to those parts of the river that are quiet and deeper; in which places; and I think about that time he spawns; and; as I have formerly told you; with the help of the melter; hides his spawn or eggs in holes; which they both dig in the gravel; and then they mutually labour to cover it with the same sand; to prevent it from being devoured by other fish。
There be such store of this fish in the river Danube; that Rondeletius says they may; in some places of it; and in some months of the year; be taken; by those who dwell near to the river; with their hands; eight or ten load at a time。 He says; they begin to be good in May; and that they cease to be so in August: but it is found to be otherwise in this nation。 But thus far we agree with him; that the spawn of a Barbel; if it be not poison; as he says; yet that it is dangerous meat; and especially in the month of May; which is so certain; that Gesner and Gasius declare it had an ill effect upon them; even to the endangering of their lives。
The fish is of a fine cast and handsome shape; with small scales; which are placed after a most exact and curious manner; and; as I told you; may be rather said not to be ill; than to be good meat; The Chub and he have; I think; both lost part of their credit by ill cookery; they being reputed the worst; or coarsest; of fresh…water fish。 But the Barbel affords an angler choice sport; being a lusty and a cunning fish; so lusty and cunning as to endanger the breaking of the angler's line; by running his head forcibly towards any covert; or hole; or bank; and then striking at the line; to break it off; with his tail; as is observed by Plutarch; in his book De Industria Animalium: and also so cunning; to nibble and suck off your worm close to the hook; and yet avoid the letting the hook come into his mouth。
The Barbel is also curious for his baits; that is to say; that they be clean and sweet; that is to say; to have your worms well scoured; and not kept in sour and musty moss; for he is a curious feeder: but at a well…scoured lob…worm he will bite as boldly as at any bait; and specially if; the night or two before you fish for him; you shall bait the places where you intend to fish for him; with big worms cut into pieces。