Sarufuto；　and　goes　through　forest　the　entire　distance；　with　an
  abundance　of　reedy　grass　higher　than　my　hat　on　horseback　along　it；
  and；　as　it　is　only　twelve　inches　broad　and　much　overgrown；　the
  horses　were　constantly　pushing　through　leafage　soaking　from　a
  night's　rain；　and　I　was　soon　wet　up　to　my　shoulders。　　The　forest
  trees　are　almost　solely　the　Ailanthus　glandulosus　and　the　Zelkowa
  keaki；　often　matted　together　with　a　white…flowered　trailer　of　the
  Hydrangea　genus。　　The　undergrowth　is　simply　hideous；　consisting
  mainly　of　coarse　reedy　grass；　monstrous　docks；　the　large…leaved
  Polygonum　cuspidatum；　several　umbelliferous　plants；　and　a　〃ragweed〃
  which；　like　most　of　its　gawky　fellows；　grows　from　five　to　six　feet
  high。　　The　forest　is　dark　and　very　silent；　threaded　by　this　narrow
  path；　and　by　others　as　narrow；　made　by　the　hunters　in　search　of
  game。　　The　〃main　road〃　sometimes　plunges　into　deep　bogs；　at　others
  is　roughly　corduroyed　by　the　roots　of　trees；　and　frequently　hangs
  over　the　edge　of　abrupt　and　much…worn　declivities；　in　going　up　one
  of　which　the　baggage…horse　rolled　down　a　bank　fully　thirty　feet
  high；　and　nearly　all　the　tea　was　lost。　　At　another　the　guide's
  pack…saddle　lost　its　balance；　and　man；　horse；　and　saddle　went　over
  the　slope；　pots；　pans；　and　packages　flying　after　them。　　At　another
  time　my　horse　sank　up　to　his　chest　in　a　very　bad　bog；　and；　as　he
  was　totally　unable　to　extricate　himself；　I　was　obliged　to　scramble
  upon　his　neck　and　jump　to　terra　firma　over　his　ears。
  There　is　something　very　gloomy　in　the　solitude　of　this　silent　land；
  with　its　beast…haunted　forests；　its　great　patches　of　pasture；　the
  resort　of　wild　animals　which　haunt　the　lower　regions　in　search　of
  food　when　the　snow　drives　them　down　from　the　mountains；　and　its
  narrow　track；　indicating　the　single　file　in　which　the　savages　of
  the　interior　walk　with　their　bare；　noiseless　feet。　　Reaching　the
  Sarufutogawa；　a　river　with　a　treacherous　bottom；　in　which　Mr。　Von
  Siebold　and　his　horse　came　to　grief；　I　hailed　an　Aino　boy；　who　took
  me　up　the　stream　in　a　〃dug…out；〃　and　after　that　we　passed　through
  Biroka；　Saruba；　and　Mina；　all　purely　Aino　villages；　situated　among
  small　patches　of　millet；　tobacco；　and　pumpkins；　so　choked　with
  weeds　that　it　was　doubtful　whether　they　were　crops。　　I　was　much
  surprised　with　the　extreme　neatness　and　cleanliness　outside　the
  houses；　〃model　villages〃　they　are　in　these　respects；　with　no　litter
  lying　in　sight　anywhere；　nothing　indeed　but　dog　troughs；　hollowed
  out　of　logs；　like　〃dug…outs；〃　for　the　numerous　yellow　dogs；　which
  are　a　feature　of　Aino　life。　　There　are　neither　puddles　nor　heaps；
  but　the　houses；　all　trim　and　in　good　repair；　rise　clean　out　of　the
  sandy　soil。
  Biratori；　the　largest　of　the　Aino　settlements　in　this　region；　is
  very　prettily　situated　among　forests　and　mountains；　on　rising
  ground；　with　a　very　sinuous　river　winding　at　its　feet　and　a　wooded
  height　above。　　A　lonelier　place　could　scarcely　be　found。　　As　we
  passed　among　the　houses　the　yellow　dogs　barked；　the　women　looked
  shy　and　smiled；　and　the　men　made　their　graceful　salutation。　　We
  stopped　at　the　chief's　house；　where；　of　course；　we　were　unexpected
  guests；　but　Shinondi；　his　nephew；　and　two　other　men　came　out；
  saluted　us；　and　with　most　hospitable　intent　helped　Ito　to　unload
  the　horses。　　Indeed　their　eager　hospitality　created　quite　a
  commotion；　one　running　hither　and　the　other　thither　in　their
  anxiety　to　welcome　a　stranger。　　It　is　a　large　house；　the　room　being
  35　by　25；　and　the　roof　20　feet　high；　but　you　enter　by　an　ante…
  chamber；　in　which　are　kept　the　millet…mill　and　other　articles。
  There　is　a　doorway　in　this；　but　the　inside　is　pretty　dark；　and
  Shinondi；　taking　my　hand；　raised　the　reed　curtain　bound　with　hide；
  which　concealed　the　entrance　into　the　actual　house；　and；　leading　me
  into　it；　retired　a　footstep；　extended　his　arms；　waved　his　arms
  inwards　three　times；　and　then　stroked　his　beard　several　times；
  after　which　he　indicated　by　a　sweep　of　his　hand　and　a　beautiful
  smile　that　the　house　and　all　it　contained　were　mine。　　An　aged
  woman；　the　chief's　mother；　who　was　splitting　bark　by　the　fire；
  waved　her　hands　also。　　She　is　the　queen…regnant　of　the　house。
  Again　taking　my　hand；　Shinondi　led　me　to　the　place　of　honour　at　the
  head　of　the　firea　rude；　movable　platform　six　feet　long　by　four
  broad；　and　a　foot　high；　on　which　he　laid　an　ornamental　mat；
  apologising　for　not　having　at　that　moment　a　bearskin　wherewith　to
  cover　it。　　The　baggage　was　speedily　brought　in　by　several　willing
  pairs　of　hands；　some　reed　mats　fifteen　feet　long　were　laid　down
  upon　the　very　coarse　ones　which　covered　the　whole　floor；　and　when
  they　saw　Ito　putting　up　my　stretcher　they　hung　a　fine　mat　along　the
  rough　wall　to　conceal　it；　and　suspended　another　on　the　beams　of　the
  roof　for　a　canopy。　　The　alacrity　and　instinctive　hospitality　with
  which　these　men　rushed　about　to　make　things　comfortable　were　very
  fascinating；　though　comfort　is　a　word　misapplied　in　an　Aino　hut。
  The　women　only　did　what　the　men　told　them。
  They　offered　food　at　once；　but　I　told　them　that　I　had　brought　my
  own；　and　would　only　ask　leave　to　cook　it　on　their　fire。　　I　need　not
  have　brought　any　cups；　for　they　have　many　lacquer　bowls；　and
  Shinondi　brought　me　on　a　lacquer　tray　a　bowl　full　of　water　from　one
  of　their　four　wells。　　They　said　that　Benri；　the　chief；　would　wish
  me　to　make　his　house　my　own　for　as　long　as　I　cared　to　stay；　and　I
  must　excuse　them　in　all　things　in　which　their　ways　were　different
  from　my　own。　　Shinondi　and　four　others　in　the　village　speak
  tolerable　Japanese；　and　this　of　course　is　the　medium　of
  communication。　　Ito　has　exerted　himself　nobly　as　an　interpreter；
  and　has　entered　into　my　wishes　with　a　cordiality　and　intelligence
  which　have　been　perfectly　invaluable；　and；　though　he　did　growl　at
  Mr。　Von　Siebold's　injunctions　regarding　politeness；　he　has　carried
  them　out　to　my　satisfaction；　and　even　admits　that　the　mountain
  Ainos　are　better　than　he　expected；　〃but；〃　he　added　〃they　have
  learned　their　politeness　from　the　Japanese！〃　　They　have　never　seen
  a　foreign　woman；　and　only　three　foreign　men；　but　there　is　neither
  crowding　nor　staring　as　among　the　Japanese；　possibly　in　part　from
  apathy　and　want　of　intelligence。　　For　three　days　they　have　kept　up
  their　graceful　and　kindly　hospitality；　going　on　with　their　ordinary
  life　and　occupations；　and；　though　I　have　lived　among　them　in　this
  room　by　day　and　night；　there　has　been　nothing　which　in　any　way
  could　offend　the　most　fastidious　sense　of　delicacy。
  They　said　they　would　leave　me　to　eat　and　rest；　and　all　retired　but
  the　chief's　mother；　a　weird；　witch…like　woman　of　eighty；　with
  shocks　of　yellow…white　hair；　and　a　stern　suspiciousness　in　her
  wrinkled　face。　　I　have　come　to　feel　as　if　she　had　the　evil　eye；　as
  she　sits　there　watching；　watching　always；　and　for　ever　knotting　the
  bark　thread　like　one　of　the　Fates；　keeping　a　jealous　watch　on　her
  son's　two　wives；　and　on　other　young　women　who　come　in　to　weave
  neither　the　dulness　nor　the　repose　of　old　age　about　her；　and　her
  eyes　gleam　with　a　greedy　light　when　she　sees　sake；　of　which　she
  drains　a　bowl　without　taking　breath。　　She　alone　is　suspicious　of
  strangers；　and　she　thinks　that　my　visit　bodes　no　good　to　her　tribe。
  I　see　her　eyes　fixed　upon　me　now；　and　they　make　me　shudder。
  I　had　a　good　meal　seated　in　my　chair　on　the　top　of　the　guest…seat
  to　avoid　the　fleas；　which　are　truly　legion。　　At　dusk　Shinondi
  returned；　and　soon　people　began　to　drop　in；　till　eighteen　were
  assembled；　including　the　sub…chief　and　several　very　grand…looking
  old　men；　with　full；　grey；　wavy　beards。　　Age　is　held　in　much
  reverence；　and　it　is　etiquette　for　these　old　men　to　do　honour　to　a
  guest　in　the　chief's　absence。　　As　each　entered　he　saluted　me
  several　times；　and　after　sitting　down　turned　towards　me　and　saluted
  again；　going　through　the　same　ceremony　with　every　other　person。
  They　said　they　had　come　〃to　bid　me　welcome。〃　　They　took　their
  places　in　rigid　order　at　each　side　of　the　fireplace；　which　is　six
  feet　long；　Benri's　mother　in　the　place　of　honour　at　the　right；　then
  Shinondi；　then　the　sub…chief；　and　on　the　other　side　the　old　men。
  Besides　these；　seven　women　sat　in　a　row　in　the　background　splitting
  bark。　　A　large　iron　pan　hung　over　the　fire　from　a　blackened
  arrangement　above；　and　Benri's　principal　wife　cut　wild　roots；　green
  beans；　and　seaweed；　and　shred　dried　fish　and　venison　among　them；
  adding　millet；　water；　and　some　strong…smelling　fish…oil；　and　set
  the　whole　on　to　stew　for　three　hours；　stirring　the　〃mess〃　now　and
  then　with　a　wooden　spoon。
  Several　of　the　older　people　smoke；　and　I　handed　round　some　mild
  tobacco；　which　they　received　with　waving　hands。　　I　told　them　that　I
  came　from　a　land　in　the　sea；　very　far　away；　where　they　saw　the　sun
  go　downso　very　far　away　that　a　horse　would　have　to　gallop　day　and
  night　for　five　weeks　to　reach　itand　that　I　had　come　a　long
  journey　to　see　them；　and　that　I　wanted　to　ask　them　many　questions；
  so　that　when　I　went　home　I　might　tell　my　own　people　something　about
  them。　　Shinondi　and　another　man；　who　understood　Japanese；　bowed；
  and　（as　on　every　occasion）　translated　what　I　said　into　Aino　for　the
  venerable　group　opposite。　　Shinondi　then　said　〃that　he　and
  Shinr