Tsuguriko　　　　　　　　　　　　　136　　　　　　　　　　3　　　　　　　5
  Odate　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　1；673　　　　　　　　　　4　　　　　　23
  Shirasawa　　　　　　　　　　　　　　71　　　　　　　　　　2　　　　　　19
  Ikarigaseki　　　　　　　　　　　175　　　　　　　　　　4　　　　　　18
  Kuroishi　　　　　　　　　　　　1；176　　　　　　　　　　6　　　　　　19
  Daishaka　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　43　　　　　　　　　　4
  Shinjo　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　51　　　　　　　　　　2　　　　　　21
  Aomori　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　1　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　24
  Ri　　　　　　　153　　　　　　　9
  About　368　miles。
  This　is　considerably　under　the　actual　distance；　as　on　several　of
  the　mountain　routes　the　ri　is　56　cho；　but　in　the　lack　of　accurate
  information　the　ri　has　been　taken　at　its　ordinary　standard　of　36
  cho　throughout。
  LETTER　XXXIII
  Form　and　ColourA　Windy　CapitalEccentricities　in　House　Roofs。
  HAKODATE；　YEZO；　August　13；　1878
  After　a　tremendous　bluster　for　two　days　the　weather　has　become
  beautifully　fine；　and　I　find　the　climate　here　more　invigorating
  than　that　of　the　main　island。　　It　is　Japan；　but　yet　there　is　a
  difference　somehow。　　When　the　mists　lift　they　reveal　not　mountains
  smothered　in　greenery；　but　naked　peaks；　volcanoes　only　recently
  burnt　out；　with　the　red　ash　flaming　under　the　noonday　sun；　and
  passing　through　shades　of　pink　into　violet　at　sundown。　　Strips　of
  sand　border　the　bay；　ranges　of　hills；　with　here　and　there　a　patch
  of　pine　or　scrub；　fade　into　the　far…off　blue；　and　the　great　cloud
  shadows　lie　upon　their　scored　sides　in　indigo　and　purple。　　Blue　as
  the　Adriatic　are　the　waters　of　the　land…locked　bay；　and　the　snowy
  sails　of　pale　junks　look　whiter　than　snow　against　its　intense
  azure。　　The　abruptness　of　the　double　peaks　behind　the　town　is
  softened　by　a　belt　of　cryptomeria；　the　sandy　strip　which　connects
  the　headland　with　the　mainland　heightens　the　general　resemblance　of
  the　contour　of　the　ground　to　Gibraltar；　but　while　one　dreams　of　the
  western　world　a　kuruma　passes　one　at　a　trot；　temple　drums　are
  beaten　in　a　manner　which　does　not　recall　〃the　roll　of　the　British
  drum；〃　a　Buddhist　funeral　passes　down　the　street；　or　a　man…cart
  pulled　and　pushed　by　four　yellow…skinned；　little…clothed　mannikins；
  creaks　by；　with　the　monotonous　grunt　of　Ha　huida。
  A　single　look　at　Hakodate　itself　makes　one　feel　that　it　is　Japan
  all　over。　　The　streets　are　very　wide　and　clean；　but　the　houses　are
  mean　and　low。　　The　city　looks　as　if　it　had　just　recovered　from　a
  conflagration。　　The　houses　are　nothing　but　tinder。　　The　grand　tile
  roofs　of　some　other　cities　are　not　to　be　seen。　　There　is　not　an
  element　of　permanence　in　the　wide；　and　windy　streets。　　It　is　an
  increasing　and　busy　place；　it　lies　for　two　miles　along　the　shore；
  and　has　climbed　the　hill　till　it　can　go　no　higher；　but　still　houses
  and　people　look　poor。　　It　has　a　skeleton　aspect　too；　which　is
  partially　due　to　the　number　of　permanent　〃clothes…horses〃　on　the
  roofs。　　Stones；　however；　are　its　prominent　feature。　　Looking　down
  upon　it　from　above　you　see　miles　of　grey　boulders；　and　realise　that
  every　roof　in　the　windy　capital　is　〃hodden　doun〃　by　a　weight　of
  paving　stones。　　Nor　is　this　all。　　Some　of　the　flatter　roofs　are
  pebbled　all　over　like　a　courtyard；　and　others；　such　as　the　roof　of
  this　house；　for　instance；　are　covered　with　sod　and　crops　of　grass；
  the　two　latter　arrangements　being　precautions　against　risks　from
  sparks　during　fires。　　These　paving　stones　are　certainly　the
  cheapest　possible　mode　of　keeping　the　roofs　on　the　houses　in　such　a
  windy　region；　but　they　look　odd。
  None　of　the　streets；　except　one　high　up　the　hill；　with　a　row　of
  fine　temples　and　temple　grounds；　call　for　any　notice。　　Nearly　every
  house　is　a　shop；　most　of　the　shops　supply　only　the　ordinary
  articles　consumed　by　a　large　and　poor　population；　either　real　or
  imitated　foreign　goods　abound　in　Main　Street；　and　the　only
  novelties　are　the　furs；　skins；　and　horns；　which　abound　in　shops
  devoted　to　their　sale。　　I　covet　the　great　bear　furs　and　the　deep
  cream…coloured　furs　of　Aino　dogs；　which　are　cheap　as　well　as
  handsome。　　There　are　many　second…hand；　or；　as　they　are　called；
  〃curio〃　shops；　and　the　cheap　lacquer　from　Aomori　is　also　tempting
  to　a　stranger。
  I。　L。　B。
  LETTER　XXXIV
  Ito's　Delinquency〃Missionary　Manners〃A　Predicted　Failure。
  HAKODATE；　YEZO。
  I　am　enjoying　Hakodate　so　much　that；　though　my　tour　is　all　planned
  and　my　arrangements　are　made；　I　linger　on　from　day　to　day。　　There
  has　been　an　unpleasant　eclaircissement　about　Ito。　　You　will
  remember　that　I　engaged　him　without　a　character；　and　that　he　told
  both　Lady　Parkes　and　me　that　after　I　had　done　so　his　former　master；
  Mr。　Maries；　asked　him　to　go　back　to　him；　to　which　he　had　replied
  that　he　had　〃a　contract　with　a　lady。〃　　Mr。　Maries　is　here；　and　I
  now　find　that　he　had　a　contract　with　Ito；　by　which　Ito　bound
  himself　to　serve　him　as　long　as　he　required　him；　for　7　a　month；
  but　that；　hearing　that　I　offered　12；　he　ran　away　from　him　and
  entered　my　service　with　a　lie！　　Mr。　Maries　has　been　put　to　the
  greatest　inconvenience　by　his　defection；　and　has　been　hindered
  greatly　in　completing　his　botanical　collection；　for　Ito　is　very
  clever；　and　he　had　not　only　trained　him　to　dry　plants　successfully；
  but　he　could　trust　him　to　go　away　for　two　or　three　days　and　collect
  seeds。　　I　am　very　sorry　about　it。　　He　says　that　Ito　was　a　bad　boy
  when　he　came　to　him；　but　he　thinks　that　he　cured　him　of　some　of　his
  faults；　and　that　he　has　served　me　faithfully。　　I　have　seen　Mr。
  Maries　at　the　Consul's；　and　have　arranged　that；　after　my　Yezo　tour
  is　over；　Ito　shall　be　returned　to　his　rightful　master；　who　will
  take　him　to　China　and　Formosa　for　a　year　and　a　half；　and　who；　I
  think；　will　look　after　his　well…being　in　every　way。　　Dr。　and　Mrs。
  Hepburn；　who　are　here；　heard　a　bad　account　of　the　boy　after　I　began
  my　travels　and　were　uneasy　about　me；　but；　except　for　this　original
  lie；　I　have　no　fault　to　find　with　him；　and　his　Shinto　creed　has　not
  taught　him　any　better。　　When　I　paid　him　his　wages　this　morning　he
  asked　me　if　I　had　any　fault　to　find；　and　I　told　him　of　my　objection
  to　his　manners；　which　he　took　in　very　good　part　and　promised　to
  amend　them；　〃but；〃　he　added；　〃mine　are　just　missionary　manners！〃
  Yesterday　I　dined　at　the　Consulate；　to　meet　Count　Diesbach；　of　the
  French　Legation；　Mr。　Von　Siebold；　of　the　Austrian　Legation；　and
  Lieutenant　Kreitner；　of　the　Austrian　army；　who　start　to…morrow　on
  an　exploring　expedition　in　the　interior；　intending　to　cross　the
  sources　of　the　rivers　which　fall　into　the　sea　on　the　southern　coast
  and　measure　the　heights　of　some　of　the　mountains。　　They　are　〃well
  found〃　in　food　and　claret；　but　take　such　a　number　of　pack…ponies
  with　them　that　I　predict　that　they　will　fail；　and　that　I；　who　have
  reduced　my　luggage　to　45　lbs。；　will　succeed！
  I　hope　to　start　on　my　long…projected　tour　to…morrow；　I　have　planned
  it　for　myself　with　the　confidence　of　an　experienced　traveller；　and
  look　forward　to　it　with　great　pleasure；　as　a　visit　to　the
  aborigines　is　sure　to　be　full　of　novel　and　interesting　experiences。
  Good…bye　for　a　long　time。　　I。　L。　B。
  LETTER　XXXV　｛17｝
  A　Lovely　SunsetAn　Official　LetterA　〃Front　Horse〃Japanese
  CourtesyThe　Steam　FerryCoolies　AbscondA　Team　of　SavagesA
  Drove　of　HorsesFloral　BeautiesAn　Unbeaten　TrackA　Ghostly
  DwellingSolitude　and　Eeriness。
  GINSAINOMA；　YEZO；　August　17。
  I　am　once　again　in　the　wilds！　　I　am　sitting　outside　an　upper　room
  built　out　almost　over　a　lonely　lake；　with　wooded　points　purpling
  and　still　shadows　deepening　in　the　sinking　sun。　　A　number　of　men
  are　dragging　down　the　nearest　hillside　the　carcass　of　a　bear　which
  they　have　just　despatched　with　spears。　　There　is　no　village；　and
  the　busy　clatter　of　the　cicada　and　the　rustle　of　the　forest　are　the
  only　sounds　which　float　on　the　still　evening　air。　　The　sunset
  colours　are　pink　and　green；　on　the　tinted　water　lie　the　waxen　cups
  of　great　water…lilies；　and　above　the　wooded　heights　the　pointed；
  craggy；　and　altogether　naked　summit　of　the　volcano　of　Komono…taki
  flushes　red　in　the　sunset。　　Not　the　least　of　the　charms　of　the
  evening　is　that　I　am　absolutely　alone；　having　ridden　the　eighteen
  miles　from　Hakodate　without　Ito　or　an　attendant　of　any　kind；　have
  unsaddled　my　own　horse；　and　by　means　of　much　politeness　and　a
  dexterous　use　of　Japanese　substantives　have　secured　a　good　room　and
  supper　of　rice；　eggs；　and　black　beans　for　myself　and　a　mash　of
  beans　for　my　horse；　which；　as　it　belongs　to　the　Kaitakushi；　and　has
  the　dignity　of　iron　shoes；　is　entitled　to　special　consideration！
  I　am　not　yet　off　the　〃beaten　track；〃　but　my　spirits　are　rising　with
  the　fine　weather；　the　drier　atmosphere；　and　the　freedom　of　Yezo。
  Yezo　is　to　the　main　island　of　Japan　what　Tipperary　is　to　an
  Englishman；　Barra　to　a　Scotchman；　〃away　down　in　Texas〃　to　a　New
  Yorkerin　the　rough；　little　known；　and　thinly…peopled；　and　people
  can　locate　all　sorts　of　improbable　stories　here　without　much　fear
  of　being　found　out；　of　which　the　Ainos　and　the　misdeeds　of　the
  ponies　furnish　the　staple；　and　the　queer　doings　of　men　and　dogs；
  and　adventures　with　bears；　wolves；　and　salmon；　the　embroidery。
  Nobody　comes　here　without　meeting　with　something　queer；　and　one　or
  two　tumbles　either　with　or　from　his　horse。　　Very　little　is　known　of
  the　interior　except　that　it　is　covered　with　forest　matted　together
  by　lianas；　and　with　an　und