solid　blocks　of　stone　from　10　to　18　feet　in　length。　　Nor　is　the
  workmanship　of　the　great　granite　cistern　for　holy　water　less
  remarkable。　　It　is　so　carefully　adjusted　on　its　bed　that　the　water
  brought　from　a　neighbouring　cascade　rises　and　pours　over　each　edge
  in　such　carefully　equalised　columns　that；　as　Mr。　Satow　says；　〃it
  seems　to　be　a　solid　block　of　water　rather　than　a　piece　of　stone。〃
  The　temples　of　Iyemitsu　are　close　to　those　of　Iyeyasu；　and　though
  somewhat　less　magnificent　are　even　more　bewildering；　as　they　are
  still　in　Buddhist　hands；　and　are　crowded　with　the　gods　of　the
  Buddhist　Pantheon　and　the　splendid　paraphernalia　of　Buddhist
  worship；　in　striking　contrast　to　the　simplicity　of　the　lonely
  Shinto　mirror　in　the　midst　of　the　blaze　of　gold　and　colour。　　In　the
  grand　entrance　gate　are　gigantic　Ni…o；　the　Buddhist　Gog　and　Magog；
  vermilion　coloured；　and　with　draperies　painted　in　imitation　of
  flowered　silk。　　A　second　pair；　painted　red　and　green；　removed　from
  Iyemitsu's　temple；　are　in　niches　within　the　gate。　　A　flight　of
  steps　leads　to　another　gate；　in　whose　gorgeous　niches　stand　hideous
  monsters；　in　human　form；　representing　the　gods　of　wind　and　thunder。
  Wind　has　crystal　eyes　and　a　half…jolly；　half…demoniacal　expression。
  He　is　painted　green；　and　carries　a　wind…bag　on　his　back；　a　long
  sack　tied　at　each　end；　with　the　ends　brought　over　his　shoulders　and
  held　in　his　hands。　　The　god　of　thunder　is　painted　red；　with　purple
  hair　on　end；　and　stands　on　clouds　holding　thunderbolts　in　his　hand。
  More　steps；　and　another　gate　containing　the　Tenno；　or　gods　of　the
  four　quarters；　boldly　carved　and　in　strong　action；　with　long　eye…
  teeth；　and　at　last　the　principal　temple　is　reached。　　An　old　priest
  who　took　me　over　it　on　my　first　visit；　on　passing　the　gods　of　wind
  and　thunder　said；　〃We　used　to　believe　in　these　things；　but　we　don't
  now；〃　and　his　manner　in　speaking　of　the　other　deities　was　rather
  contemptuous。　　He　requested　me；　however；　to　take　off　my　hat　as　well
  as　my　shoes　at　the　door　of　the　temple。　　Within　there　was　a　gorgeous
  shrine；　and　when　an　acolyte　drew　aside　the　curtain　of　cloth　of　gold
  the　interior　was　equally　imposing；　containing　Buddha　and　two　other
  figures　of　gilded　brass；　seated　cross…legged　on　lotus…flowers；　with
  rows　of　petals　several　times　repeated；　and　with　that　look　of
  eternal　repose　on　their　faces　which　is　reproduced　in　the　commonest
  road…side　images。　　In　front　of　the　shrine　several　candles　were
  burning；　the　offerings　of　some　people　who　were　having　prayers　said
  for　them；　and　the　whole　was　lighted　by　two　lamps　burning　low。　　On　a
  step　of　the　altar　a　much…contorted　devil　was　crouching　uneasily；
  for　he　was　subjugated　and；　by　a　grim　irony；　made　to　carry　a　massive
  incense…burner　on　his　shoulders。　　In　this　temple　there　were　more
  than　a　hundred　idols　standing　in　rows；　many　of　them　life…size；　some
  of　them　trampling　devils　under　their　feet；　but　all　hideous；　partly
  from　the　bright　greens；　vermilions；　and　blues　with　which　they　are
  painted。　　Remarkable　muscular　development　characterises　all；　and
  the　figures　or　faces　are　all　in　vigorous　action　of　some　kind；
  generally　grossly　exaggerated。
  While　we　were　crossing　the　court　there　were　two　shocks　of
  earthquake；　all　the　golden　wind…bells　which　fringe　the　roofs　rang
  softly；　and　a　number　of　priests　ran　into　the　temple　and　beat
  various　kinds　of　drums　for　the　space　of　half　an　hour。　　Iyemitsu's
  tomb　is　reached　by　flights　of　steps　on　the　right　of　the　chapel。　　It
  is　in　the　same　style　as　Iyeyasu's；　but　the　gates　in　front　are　of
  bronze；　and　are　inscribed　with　large　Sanskrit　characters　in　bright
  brass。　　One　of　the　most　beautiful　of　the　many　views　is　from　the
  uppermost　gate　of　the　temple。　　The　sun　shone　on　my　second　visit　and
  brightened　the　spring　tints　of　the　trees　on　Hotoke　Iwa；　which　was
  vignetted　by　a　frame　of　dark　cryptomeria。
  Some　of　the　buildings　are　roofed　with　sheet…copper；　but　most　of
  them　are　tiled。　　Tiling；　however；　has　been　raised　almost　to　the
  dignity　of　a　fine　art　in　Japan。　　The　tiles　themselves　are　a　coppery
  grey；　with　a　suggestion　of　metallic　lustre　about　it。　　They　are
  slightly　concave；　and　the　joints　are　covered　by　others　quite
  convex；　which　come　down　like　massive　tubes　from　the　ridge　pole；　and
  terminate　at　the　eaves　with　discs　on　which　the　Tokugawa　badge　is
  emblazoned　in　gold；　as　it　is　everywhere　on　these　shrines　where　it
  would　not　be　quite　out　of　keeping。　　The　roofs　are　so　massive　that
  they　require　all　the　strength　of　the　heavy　carved　timbers　below；
  and；　like　all　else；　they　gleam　with　gold；　or　that　which　simulates
  it。
  The　shrines　are　the　most　wonderful　work　of　their　kind　in　Japan。　　In
  their　stately　setting　of　cryptomeria；　few　of　which　are　less　than　20
  feet　in　girth　at　3　feet　from　the　ground；　they　take　one　prisoner　by
  their　beauty；　in　defiance　of　all　rules　of　western　art；　and　compel
  one　to　acknowledge　the　beauty　of　forms　and　combinations　of　colour
  hitherto　unknown；　and　that　lacquered　wood　is　capable　of　lending
  itself　to　the　expression　of　a　very　high　idea　in　art。　　Gold　has　been
  used　in　profusion；　and　black；　dull　red；　and　white；　with　a　breadth
  and　lavishness　quite　unique。　　The　bronze　fret…work　alone　is　a
  study；　and　the　wood…carving　needs　weeks　of　earnest　work　for　the
  mastery　of　its　ideas　and　details。　　One　screen　or　railing　only　has
  sixty　panels；　each　4　feet　long；　carved　with　marvellous　boldness　and
  depth　in　open　work；　representing　peacocks；　pheasants；　storks；
  lotuses；　peonies；　bamboos；　and　foliage。　　The　fidelity　to　form　and
  colour　in　the　birds；　and　the　reproduction　of　the　glory　of　motion；
  could　not　be　excelled。
  Yet　the　flowers　please　me　even　better。　　Truly　the　artist　has
  revelled　in　his　work；　and　has　carved　and　painted　with　joy。　　The
  lotus　leaf　retains　its　dewy　bloom；　the　peony　its　shades　of　creamy
  white；　the　bamboo　leaf　still　trembles　on　its　graceful　stem；　in
  contrast　to　the　rigid　needles　of　the　pine；　and　countless　corollas；
  in　all　the　perfect　colouring　of　passionate　life；　unfold　themselves
  amidst　the　leafage　of　the　gorgeous　tracery。　　These　carvings　are
  from　10　to　15　inches　deep；　and　single　feathers　in　the　tails　of　the
  pheasants　stand　out　fully　6　inches　in　front　of　peonies　nearly　as
  deep。
  The　details　fade　from　my　memory　daily　as　I　leave　the　shrines；　and
  in　their　place　are　picturesque　masses　of　black　and　red　lacquer　and
  gold；　gilded　doors　opening　without　noise；　halls　laid　with　matting
  so　soft　that　not　a　footfall　sounds；　across　whose　twilight　the
  sunbeams　fall　aslant　on　richly　arabesqued　walls　and　panels　carved
  with　birds　and　flowers；　and　on　ceilings　panelled　and　wrought　with
  elaborate　art；　of　inner　shrines　of　gold；　and　golden　lilies　six　feet
  high；　and　curtains　of　gold　brocade；　and　incense　fumes；　and　colossal
  bells　and　golden　ridge　poles；　of　the　mythical　fauna；　kirin；　dragon；
  and　howo；　of　elephants；　apes；　and　tigers；　strangely　mingled　with
  flowers　and　trees；　and　golden　tracery；　and　diaper　work　on　a　gold
  ground；　and　lacquer　screens；　and　pagodas；　and　groves　of　bronze
  lanterns；　and　shaven　priests　in　gold　brocade；　and　Shinto　attendants
  in　black　lacquer　caps；　and　gleams　of　sunlit　gold　here　and　there；
  and　simple　monumental　urns；　and　a　mountain…side　covered　with　a
  cryptomeria　forest；　with　rose　azaleas　lighting　up　its　solemn　shade。
  I。　L。　B。
  LETTER　IX
  A　Japanese　Pack…Horse　and　Pack…SaddleYadoya　and　AttendantA
  Native　Watering…PlaceThe　Sulphur　BathsA　〃Squeeze。〃
  YASHIMAYA；　YUMOTO；　NIKKOZAN　MOUNTAINS；
  June　22。
  To…day　I　have　made　an　experimental　journey　on　horseback；　have　done
  fifteen　miles　in　eight　hours　of　continuous　travelling；　and　have
  encountered　for　the　first　time　the　Japanese　pack…horsean　animal
  of　which　many　unpleasing　stories　are　told；　and　which　has　hitherto
  been　as　mythical　to　me　as　the　kirin；　or　dragon。　　I　have　neither
  been　kicked；　bitten；　nor　pitched　off；　however；　for　mares　are　used
  exclusively　in　this　district；　gentle　creatures　about　fourteen　hands
  high；　with　weak　hind…quarters；　and　heads　nearly　concealed　by　shaggy
  manes　and　forelocks。　　They　are　led　by　a　rope　round　the　nose；　and　go
  barefoot；　except　on　stony　ground；　when　the　mago；　or　man　who　leads
  them；　ties　straw　sandals　on　their　feet。　　The　pack…saddle　is
  composed　of　two　packs　of　straw　eight　inches　thick；　faced　with　red；
  and　connected　before　and　behind　by　strong　oak　arches　gaily　painted
  or　lacquered。　　There　is　for　a　girth　a　rope　loosely　tied　under　the
  body；　and　the　security　of　the　load　depends　on　a　crupper；　usually　a
  piece　of　bamboo　attached　to　the　saddle　by　ropes　strung　with　wooden
  counters；　and　another　rope　round　the　neck；　into　which　you　put　your
  foot　as　you　scramble　over　the　high　front　upon　the　top　of　the
  erection。　　The　load　must　be　carefully　balanced　or　it　comes　to
  grief；　and　the　mago　handles　it　all　over　first；　and；　if　an　accurate
  division　of　weight　is　impossible；　adds　a　stone　to　one　side　or　the
  other。　　Here；　women　who　wear　enormous　rain　hats　and　gird　their
  kimonos　over　tight　blue　trousers；　both　load　the　horses　and　lead
  them。　　I　dropped　upon　my　loaded　horse　from　the　top　of　a　wall；　the
  ridges；　bars；　tags；　and　knotted　rigging　of　the　saddle　being
  smoothed　over　by　a　folded　futon；　or　wadded　cotton　quilt；　and　I　was
  then　fourteen　inches　above　the　animal's　back；　with　my　feet　hanging
  over　his