feet；　the　bright　beauty　of　the　falls　of　Kiri　Furi；　the　loveliness
  of　the　gardens　of　Dainichido；　the　sombre　grandeur　of　the　passes
  through　which　the　Daiyagawa　forces　its　way　from　the　upper　regions；
  a　gorgeousness　of　azaleas　and　magnolias；　and　a　luxuriousness　of
  vegetation　perhaps　unequalled　in　Japan；　are　only　a　few　of　the
  attractions　which　surround　the　shrines　of　the　two　greatest　Shoguns。
  To　a　glorious　resting…place　on　the　hill…slope　of　Hotoke　Iwa；　sacred
  since　767；　when　a　Buddhist　saint；　called　Shodo　Shonin；　visited　it；
  and　declared　the　old　Shinto　deity　of　the　mountain　to　be　only　a
  manifestation　of　Buddha；　Hidetada；　the　second　Shogun　of　the
  Tokugawa　dynasty；　conveyed　the　corpse　of　his　father；　Iyeyasu；　in
  1617。　　It　was　a　splendid　burial。　　An　Imperial　envoy；　a　priest　of
  the　Mikado's　family；　court　nobles　from　Kivoto；　and　hundreds　of
  daimiyos；　captains；　and　nobles　of　inferior　rank；　took　part　in　the
  ceremony。　　An　army　of　priests　in　rich　robes　during　three　days
  intoned　a　sacred　classic　10；000　times；　and　Iyeyasu　was　deified　by　a
  decree　of　the　Mikado　under　a　name　signifying　〃light　of　the　east；
  great　incarnation　of　Buddha。〃　　The　less　important　Shoguns　of　the
  line　of　Tokugawa　are　buried　in　Uyeno　and　Shiba；　in　Yedo。　　Since　the
  restoration；　and　what　may　be　called　the　disestablishment　of
  Buddhism；　the　shrine　of　Iyeyasu　has　been　shorn　of　all　its　glories
  of　ritual　and　its　magnificent　Buddhist　paraphernalia；　the　200
  priests　who　gave　it　splendour　are　scattered；　and　six　Shinto　priests
  alternately　attend　upon　it　as　much　for　the　purpose　of　selling
  tickets　of　admission　as　for　any　priestly　duties。
  All　roads；　bridges；　and　avenues　here　lead　to　these　shrines；　but　the
  grand　approach　is　by　the　Red　Bridge；　and　up　a　broad　road　with　steps
  at　intervals　and　stone…faced　embankments　at　each　side；　on　the　top
  of　which　are　belts　of　cryptomeria。　　At　the　summit　of　this　ascent　is
  a　fine　granite　torii；　27　feet　6　inches　high；　with　columns　3　feet　6
  inches　in　diameter；　offered　by　the　daimiyo　of　Chikuzen　in　1618　from
  his　own　quarries。　　After　this　come　118　magnificent　bronze　lanterns
  on　massive　stone　pedestals；　each　of　which　is　inscribed　with　the
  posthumous　title　of　Iyeyasu；　the　name　of　the　giver；　and　a　legend　of
  the　offeringall　the　gifts　of　daimiyoa　holy　water　cistern　made
  of　a　solid　block　of　granite；　and　covered　by　a　roof　resting　on
  twenty　square　granite　pillars；　and　a　bronze　bell；　lantern；　and
  candelabra　of　marvellous　workmanship；　offered　by　the　kings　of　Corea
  and　Liukiu。　　On　the　left　is　a　five…storied　pagoda；　104　feet　high；
  richly　carved　in　wood　and　as　richly　gilded　and　painted。　　The　signs
  of　the　zodiac　run　round　the　lower　story。
  The　grand　entrance　gate　is　at　the　top　of　a　handsome　flight　of　steps
  forty　yards　from　the　torii。　　A　looped　white　curtain　with　the
  Mikado's　crest　in　black；　hangs　partially　over　the　gateway；　in
  which；　beautiful　as　it　is；　one　does　not　care　to　linger；　to　examine
  the　gilded　amainu　in　niches；　or　the　spirited　carvings　of　tigers
  under　the　eaves；　for　the　view　of　the　first　court　overwhelms　one　by
  its　magnificence　and　beauty。　　The　whole　style　of　the　buildings；　the
  arrangements；　the　art　of　every　kind；　the　thought　which　inspires　the
  whole；　are　exclusively　Japanese；　and　the　glimpse　from　the　Ni…o　gate
  is　a　revelation　of　a　previously　undreamed…of　beauty；　both　in　form
  and　colour。
  Round　the　neatly　pebbled　court；　which　is　enclosed　by　a　bright　red
  timber　wall；　are　three　gorgeous　buildings；　which　contain　the
  treasures　of　the　temple；　a　sumptuous　stable　for　the　three　sacred
  Albino　horses；　which　are　kept　for　the　use　of　the　god；　a　magnificent
  granite　cistern　of　holy　water；　fed　from　the　Somendaki　cascade；　and
  a　highly　decorated　building；　in　which　a　complete　collection　of
  Buddhist　Scriptures　is　deposited。　　From　this　a　flight　of　steps
  leads　into　a　smaller　court　containing　a　bell…tower　〃of　marvellous
  workmanship　and　ornamentation；〃　a　drum…tower；　hardly　less
  beautiful；　a　shrine；　the　candelabra；　bell；　and　lantern　mentioned
  before；　and　some　very　grand　bronze　lanterns。
  From　this　court　another　flight　of　steps　ascends　to　the　Yomei　gate；
  whose　splendour　I　contemplated　day　after　day　with　increasing
  astonishment。　　The　white　columns　which　support　it　have　capitals
  formed　of　great　red…throated　heads　of　the　mythical　Kirin。　　Above
  the　architrave　is　a　projecting　balcony　which　runs　all　round　the
  gateway　with　a　railing　carried　by　dragons'　heads。　　In　the　centre
  two　white　dragons　fight　eternally。　　Underneath；　in　high　relief；
  there　are　groups　of　children　playing；　then　a　network　of　richly
  painted　beams；　and　seven　groups　of　Chinese　sages。　　The　high　roof　is
  supported　by　gilded　dragons'　heads　with　crimson　throats。　　In　the
  interior　of　the　gateway　there　are　side…niches　painted　white；　which
  are　lined　with　gracefully　designed　arabesques　founded　on　the　botan
  or　peony。　　A　piazza；　whose　outer　walls　of　twenty…one　compartments
  are　enriched　with　magnificent　carvings　of　birds；　flowers；　and
  trees；　runs　right　and　left；　and　encloses　on　three　of　its　sides
  another　court；　the　fourth　side　of　which　is　a　terminal　stone　wall
  built　against　the　side　of　the　hill。　　On　the　right　are　two　decorated
  buildings；　one　of　which　contains　a　stage　for　the　performance　of　the
  sacred　dances；　and　the　other　an　altar　for　the　burning　of　cedar　wood
  incense。　　On　the　left　is　a　building　for　the　reception　of　the　three
  sacred　cars　which　were　used　during　festivals。　　To　pass　from　court
  to　court　is　to　pass　from　splendour　to　splendour；　one　is　almost　glad
  to　feel　that　this　is　the　last；　and　that　the　strain　on　one's
  capacity　for　admiration　is　nearly　over。
  In　the　middle　is　the　sacred　enclosure；　formed　of　gilded　trellis…
  work　with　painted　borders　above　and　below；　forming　a　square　of
  which　each　side　measures　150　feet；　and　which　contains　the　haiden　or
  chapel。　　Underneath　the　trellis　work　are　groups　of　birds；　with
  backgrounds　of　grass；　very　boldly　carved　in　wood　and　richly　gilded
  and　painted。　　From　the　imposing　entrance　through　a　double　avenue　of
  cryptomeria；　among　courts；　gates；　temples；　shrines；　pagodas；
  colossal　bells　of　bronze；　and　lanterns　inlaid　with　gold；　you　pass
  through　this　final　court　bewildered　by　magnificence；　through　golden
  gates；　into　the　dimness　of　a　golden　temple；　and　there　issimply　a
  black　lacquer　table　with　a　circular　metal　mirror　upon　it。
  Within　is　a　hall　finely　matted；　42　feet　wide　by　27　from　front　to
  back；　with　lofty　apartments　on　each　side；　one　for　the　Shogun　and
  the　other　〃for　his　Holiness　the　Abbot。〃　　Both；　of　course；　are
  empty。　　The　roof　of　the　hall　is　panelled　and　richly　frescoed。　　The
  Shogun's　room　contains　some　very　fine　fusuma；　on　which　kirin
  （fabulous　monsters）　are　depicted　on　a　dead　gold　ground；　and　four
  oak　panels；　8　feet　by　6；　finely　carved；　with　the　phoenix　in　low
  relief　variously　treated。　　In　the　Abbot's　room　there　are　similar
  panels　adorned　with　hawks　spiritedly　executed。　　The　only
  ecclesiastical　ornament　among　the　dim　splendours　of　the　chapel　is
  the　plain　gold　gohei。　　Steps　at　the　back　lead　into　a　chapel　paved
  with　stone；　with　a　fine　panelled　ceiling　representing　dragons　on　a
  dark　blue　ground。　　Beyond　this　some　gilded　doors　lead　into　the
  principal　chapel；　containing　four　rooms　which　are　not　accessible；
  but　if　they　correspond　with　the　outside；　which　is　of　highly
  polished　black　lacquer　relieved　by　gold；　they　must　be　severely
  magnificent。
  But　not　in　any　one　of　these　gorgeous　shrines　did　Iyeyasu　decree
  that　his　dust　should　rest。　　Re…entering　the　last　court；　it　is
  necessary　to　leave　the　enclosures　altogether　by　passing　through　a
  covered　gateway　in　the　eastern　piazza　into　a　stone　gallery；　green
  with　mosses　and　hepaticae。　　Within；　wealth　and　art　have　created　a
  fairyland　of　gold　and　colour；　without；　Nature；　at　her　stateliest；
  has　surrounded　the　great　Shogun's　tomb　with　a　pomp　of　mournful
  splendour。　　A　staircase　of　240　stone　steps　leads　to　the　top　of　the
  hill；　where；　above　and　behind　all　the　stateliness　of　the　shrines
  raised　in　his　honour；　the　dust　of　Iyeyasu　sleeps　in　an　unadorned
  but　Cyclopean　tomb　of　stone　and　bronze；　surmounted　by　a　bronze　urn。
  In　front　is　a　stone　table　decorated　with　a　bronze　incense…burner；　a
  vase　with　lotus　blossoms　and　leaves　in　brass；　and　a　bronze　stork
  bearing　a　bronze　candlestick　in　its　mouth。　　A　lofty　stone　wall；
  surmounted　by　a　balustrade；　surrounds　the　simple　but　stately
  enclosure；　and　cryptomeria　of　large　size　growing　up　the　back　of　the
  hill　create　perpetual　twilight　round　it。　　Slant　rays　of　sunshine
  alone　pass　through　them；　no　flower　blooms　or　bird　sings；　only
  silence　and　mournfulness　surround　the　grave　of　the　ablest　and
  greatest　man　that　Japan　has　produced。
  Impressed　as　I　had　been　with　the　glorious　workmanship　in　wood；
  bronze；　and　lacquer；　I　scarcely　admired　less　the　masonry　of　the
  vast　retaining　walls；　the　stone　gallery；　the　staircase　and　its
  balustrade；　all　put　together　without　mortar　or　cement；　and　so
  accurately　fitted　that　the　joints　are　scarcely　affected　by　the
  rain；　damp；　and　aggressive　vegetation　of　260　years。　　The　steps　of
  the　staircase　are　fine　monoliths；　and　the　coping　at　the　side；　the
  massive　balustrade；　and　the　heavy　rail　at　the　top；　are　cut　out　of
  solid　blocks　of　stone　from　10　to　18　feet　in　length。　　Nor　is　the
  workmanship　of　the　great