dove…coloured　silk　crepe；　with　a　pale　pink　under…dress　of　the　same
  material；　which　showed　a　little　at　the　neck　and　sleeves。　　Her
  girdle　was　of　rich　dove…coloured　silk；　with　a　ghost　of　a　pale　pink
  blossom　hovering　upon　it　here　and　there。　　She　had　no　frills　or
  fripperies　of　any　description；　or　ornaments；　except　a　single　pin　in
  her　chignon；　and；　with　a　sweet　and　charming　face；　she　looked　as
  graceful　and　dignified　in　her　Japanese　costume　as　she　would　have
  looked　exactly　the　reverse　in　ours。　　Their　costume　has　one　striking
  advantage　over　ours。　　A　woman　is　perfectly　CLOTHED　if　she　has　one
  garment　and　a　girdle　on；　and　perfectly　DRESSED　if　she　has　two。
  There　is　a　difference　in　features　and　expressionmuch　exaggerated；
  however；　by　Japanese　artistsbetween　the　faces　of　high…born　women
  and　those　of　the　middle　and　lower　classes。　　I　decline　to　admire
  fat…faces；　pug　noses；　thick　lips；　long　eyes；　turned　up　at　the　outer
  corners；　and　complexions　which　owe　much　to　powder　and　paint。　　The
  habit　of　painting　the　lips　with　a　reddish…yellow　pigment；　and　of
  heavily　powdering　the　face　and　throat　with　pearl　powder；　is　a
  repulsive　one。　　But　it　is　hard　to　pronounce　any　unfavourable
  criticism　on　women　who　have　so　much　kindly　grace　of　manner。　　I。　L。
  B。
  LETTER　VI
  FearsTravelling　EquipmentsPassportsCoolie　CostumeA　Yedo
  DioramaRice…FieldsTea…HousesA　Traveller's　ReceptionThe　Inn
  at　KasukabeLack　of　PrivacyA　Concourse　of　NoisesA　Nocturnal
  AlarmA　Vision　of　PolicemenA　Budget　from　Yedo。
  KASUKABE；　June　10。
  From　the　date　you　will　see　that　I　have　started　on　my　long　journey；
  though　not　upon　the　〃unbeaten　tracks〃　which　I　hope　to　take　after
  leaving　Nikko；　and　my　first　evening　alone　in　the　midst　of　this
  crowded　Asian　life　is　strange；　almost　fearful。　　I　have　suffered
  from　nervousness　all　daythe　fear　of　being　frightened；　of　being
  rudely　mobbed；　as　threatened　by　Mr。　Campbell　of　Islay；　of　giving
  offence　by　transgressing　the　rules　of　Japanese　politenessof；　I
  know　not　what！　　Ito　is　my　sole　reliance；　and　he　may　prove　a　〃broken
  reed。〃　　I　often　wished　to　give　up　my　project；　but　was　ashamed　of　my
  cowardice　when；　on　the　best　authority；　I　received　assurances　of　its
  safety。　｛6｝
  The　preparations　were　finished　yesterday；　and　my　outfit　weighed　110
  lbs。；　which；　with　Ito's　weight　of　90　lbs。；　is　as　much　as　can　be
  carried　by　an　average　Japanese　horse。　　My　two　painted　wicker　boxes
  lined　with　paper　and　with　waterproof　covers　are　convenient　for　the
  two　sides　of　a　pack…horse。　　I　have　a　folding…chairfor　in　a
  Japanese　house　there　is　nothing　but　the　floor　to　sit　upon；　and　not
  even　a　solid　wall　to　lean　againstan　air…pillow　for　kuruma
  travelling；　an　india…rubber　bath；　sheets；　a　blanket；　and　last；　and
  more　important　than　all　else；　a　canvas　stretcher　on　light　poles；
  which　can　be　put　together　in　two　minutes；　and　being　2。5　feet　high
  is　supposed　to　be　secure　from　fleas。　　The　〃Food　Question〃　has　been
  solved　by　a　modified　rejection　of　all　advice！　　I　have　only　brought
  a　small　supply　of　Liebig's　extract　of　meat；　4　lbs。　of　raisins；　some
  chocolate；　both　for　eating　and　drinking；　and　some　brandy　in　case　of
  need。　　I　have　my　own　Mexican　saddle　and　bridle；　a　reasonable
  quantity　of　clothes；　including　a　loose　wrapper　for　wearing　in　the
  evenings；　some　candles；　Mr。　Brunton's　large　map　of　Japan；　volumes
  of　the　Transactions　of　the　English　Asiatic　Society；　and　Mr。　Satow's
  Anglo…Japanese　Dictionary。　　My　travelling　dress　is　a　short　costume
  of　dust…coloured　striped　tweed；　with　strong　laced　boots　of
  unblacked　leather；　and　a　Japanese　hat；　shaped　like　a　large　inverted
  bowl；　of　light　bamboo　plait；　with　a　white　cotton　cover；　and　a　very
  light　frame　inside；　which　fits　round　the　brow　and　leaves　a　space　of
  1。5　inches　between　the　hat　and　the　head　for　the　free　circulation　of
  air。　　It　only　weighs　2。5　ounces；　and　is　infinitely　to　be　preferred
  to　a　heavy　pith　helmet；　and；　light　as　it　is；　it　protects　the　head
  so　thoroughly；　that；　though　the　sun　has　been　unclouded　all　day　and
  the　mercury　at　86　degrees；　no　other　protection　has　been　necessary。
  My　money　is　in　bundles　of　50　yen；　and　50；　20；　and　10　sen　notes；
  besides　which　I　have　some　rouleaux　of　copper　coins。　　I　have　a　bag
  for　my　passport；　which　hangs　to　my　waist。　　All　my　luggage；　with　the
  exception　of　my　saddle；　which　I　use　for　a　footstool；　goes　into　one
  kuruma；　and　Ito；　who　is　limited　to　12　lbs。；　takes　his　along　with
  him。
  I　have　three　kurumas；　which　are　to　go　to　Nikko；　ninety　miles；　in
  three　days；　without　change　of　runners；　for　about　eleven　shillings
  each。
  Passports　usually　define　the　route　over　which　the　foreigner　is　to
  travel；　but　in　this　case　Sir　H。　Parkes　has　obtained　one　which　is
  practically　unrestricted；　for　it　permits　me　to　travel　through　all
  Japan　north　of　Tokiyo　and　in　Yezo　without　specifying　any　route。
  This　precious　document；　without　which　I　should　be　liable　to　be
  arrested　and　forwarded　to　my　consul；　is　of　course　in　Japanese；　but
  the　cover　gives　in　English　the　regulations　under　which　it　is
  issued。　　A　passport　must　be　applied　for；　for　reasons　of　〃health；
  botanical　research；　or　scientific　investigation。〃　　Its　bearer　must
  not　light　fires　in　woods；　attend　fires　on　horseback；　trespass　on
  fields；　enclosures；　or　game…preserves；　scribble　on　temples；
  shrines；　or　walls；　drive　fast　on　a　narrow　road；　or　disregard
  notices　of　〃No　thoroughfare。〃　　He　must　〃conduct　himself　in　an
  orderly　and　conciliating　manner　towards　the　Japanese　authorities
  and　people；〃　he　〃must　produce　his　passport　to　any　officials　who　may
  demand　it；〃　under　pain　of　arrest；　and　while　in　the　interior　〃is
  forbidden　to　shoot；　trade；　to　conclude　mercantile　contracts　with
  Japanese；　or　to　rent　houses　or　rooms　for　a　longer　period　than　his
  journey　requires。〃
  NIKKO；　June　13。This　is　one　of　the　paradises　of　Japan！　　It　is　a
  proverbial　saying；　〃He　who　has　not　seen　Nikko　must　not　use　the　word
  kek'ko〃　（splendid；　delicious；　beautiful）；　but　of　this　more
  hereafter。　　My　attempt　to　write　to　you　from　Kasukabe　failed；　owing
  to　the　onslaught　of　an　army　of　fleas；　which　compelled　me　to　retreat
  to　my　stretcher；　and　the　last　two　nights；　for　this　and　other
  reasons；　writing　has　been　out　of　the　question。
  I　left　the　Legation　at　11　am。　on　Monday　and　reached　Kasukabe　at　5
  p。m。；　the　runners　keeping　up　an　easy　trot　the　whole　journey　of
  twenty…three　miles；　but　the　halts　for　smoking　and　eating　were
  frequent。
  These　kuruma…runners　wore　short　blue　cotton　drawers；　girdles　with
  tobacco　pouch　and　pipe　attached；　short　blue　cotton　shirts　with　wide
  sleeves；　and　open　in　front；　reaching　to　their　waists；　and　blue
  cotton　handkerchiefs　knotted　round　their　heads；　except　when　the　sun
  was　very　hot；　when　they　took　the　flat　flag　discs；　two　feet　in
  diameter；　which　always　hang　behind　kurumas；　and　are　used　either　in
  sun　or　rain；　and　tied　them　on　their　heads。　　They　wore　straw
  sandals；　which　had　to　be　replaced　twice　on　the　way。　　Blue　and　white
  towels　hung　from　the　shafts　to　wipe　away　the　sweat；　which　ran
  profusely　down　the　lean；　brown　bodies。　　The　upper　garment　always
  flew　behind　them；　displaying　chests　and　backs　elaborately　tattooed
  with　dragons　and　fishes。　　Tattooing　has　recently　been　prohibited；
  but　it　was　not　only　a　favourite　adornment；　but　a　substitute　for
  perishable　clothing。
  Most　of　the　men　of　the　lower　classes　wear　their　hair　in　a　very　ugly
  fashion；the　front　and　top　of　the　head　being　shaved；　the　long　hair
  from　the　back　and　sides　being　drawn　up　and　tied；　then　waxed；　tied
  again；　and　cut　short　off；　the　stiff　queue　being　brought　forward　and
  laid；　pointing　forwards；　along　the　back　part　of　the　top　of　the
  head。　　This　top…knot　is　shaped　much　like　a　short　clay　pipe。　　The
  shaving　and　dressing　the　hair　thus　require　the　skill　of　a
  professional　barber。　　Formerly　the　hair　was　worn　in　this　way　by　the
  samurai；　in　order　that　the　helmet　might　fit　comfortably；　but　it　is
  now　the　style　of　the　lower　classes　mostly　and　by　no　means
  invariably。
  Blithely；　at　a　merry　trot；　the　coolies　hurried　us　away　from　the
  kindly　group　in　the　Legation　porch；　across　the　inner　moat　and　along
  the　inner　drive　of　the　castle；　past　gateways　and　retaining　walls　of
  Cyclopean　masonry；　across　the　second　moat；　along　miles　of　streets
  of　sheds　and　shops；　all　grey；　thronged　with　foot…passengers　and
  kurumas；　with　pack…horses　loaded　two　or　three　feet　above　their
  backs；　the　arches　of　their　saddles　red　and　gilded　lacquer；　their
  frontlets　of　red　leather；　their　〃shoes〃　straw　sandals；　their　heads
  tied　tightly　to　the　saddle…girth　on　either　side；　great　white　cloths
  figured　with　mythical　beasts　in　blue　hanging　down　loosely　under
  their　bodies；　with　coolies　dragging　heavy　loads　to　the　guttural　cry
  of　Hai！　huida！　with　children　whose　heads　were　shaved　in　hideous
  patterns；　and　now　and　then；　as　if　to　point　a　moral　lesson　in　the
  midst　of　the　whirling　diorama；　a　funeral　passed　through　the　throng；
  with　a　priest　in　rich　robes；　mumbling　prayers；　a　covered　barrel
  containing　the　corpse；　and　a　train　of　mourners　in　blue　dresses　with
  white　wings。　　Then　we　came　to　the　fringe　of　Yedo；　where　the　houses
  cease　to　be　continuous；　but　all　that　day　there　was　little　interval
  between　them。　　All　had　open　fronts；　so　that　the　occupations　of　the
  inmates；　the　〃domestic　life〃　in　fact；　were　perfectly　visible。　　Many
  of