inferior　yashikis；　with　the　rest　of　the　city。　　This　street；
  marvellously　thronged　with　pedestrians　and　kurumas；　is　the　terminus
  of　a　number　of　city　〃stage　lines；〃　and　twenty　wretched…looking
  covered　waggons；　with　still　more　wretched　ponies；　were　drawn　up　in
  the　middle；　waiting　for　passengers。　　Just　there　plenty　of　real
  Tokiyo　life　is　to　be　seen；　for　near　a　shrine　of　popular　pilgrimage
  there　are　always　numerous　places　of　amusement；　innocent　and
  vicious；　and　the　vicinity　of　this　temple　is　full　of　restaurants；
  tea…houses；　minor　theatres；　and　the　resorts　of　dancing　and　singing
  girls。
  A　broad…paved　avenue；　only　open　to　foot　passengers；　leads　from　this
  street　to　the　grand　entrance；　a　colossal　two…storied　double…roofed
  mon；　or　gate；　painted　a　rich　dull　red。　　On　either　side　of　this
  avenue　are　lines　of　boothswhich　make　a　brilliant　and　lavish
  display　of　their　contentstoy…shops；　shops　for　smoking　apparatus；
  and　shops　for　the　sale　of　ornamental　hair…pins　predominating。
  Nearer　the　gate　are　booths　for　the　sale　of　rosaries　for　prayer；
  sleeve　and　bosom　idols　of　brass　and　wood　in　small　shrines；　amulet
  bags；　representations　of　the　jolly…looking　Daikoku；　the　god　of
  wealth；　the　most　popular　of　the　household　gods　of　Japan；　shrines；
  memorial　tablets；　cheap　ex　votos；　sacred　bells；　candlesticks；　and
  incense…burners；　and　all　the　endless　and　various　articles　connected
  with　Buddhist　devotion；　public　and　private。　　Every　day　is　a
  festival…day　at　Asakusa；　the　temple　is　dedicated　to　the　most
  popular　of　the　great　divinities；　it　is　the　most　popular　of
  religious　resorts；　and　whether　he　be　Buddhist；　Shintoist；　or
  Christian；　no　stranger　comes　to　the　capital　without　making　a　visit
  to　its　crowded　courts　or　a　purchase　at　its　tempting　booths。　　Not　to
  be　an　exception；　I　invested　in　bouquets　of　firework　flowers；　fifty
  flowers　for　2　sen；　or　1d。；　each　of　which；　as　it　slowly　consumes；
  throws　off　fiery　coruscations；　shaped　like　the　most　beautiful　of
  snow　crystals。　　I　was　also　tempted　by　small　boxes　at　2　sen　each；
  containing　what　look　like　little　slips　of　withered　pith；　but　which；
  on　being　dropped　into　water；　expand　into　trees　and　flowers。
  Down　a　paved　passage　on　the　right　there　is　an　artificial　river；　not
  over　clean；　with　a　bridge　formed　of　one　curved　stone；　from　which　a
  flight　of　steps　leads　up　to　a　small　temple　with　a　magnificent
  bronze　bell。　　At　the　entrance　several　women　were　praying。　　In　the
  same　direction　are　two　fine　bronze　Buddhas；　seated　figures；　one
  with　clasped　hands；　the　other　holding　a　lotus；　both　with　〃The　light
  of　the　world〃　upon　their　brows。　　The　grand　red　gateway　into　the
  actual　temple　courts　has　an　extremely　imposing　effect；　and　besides；
  it　is　the　portal　to　the　first　great　heathen　temple　that　I　have
  seen；　and　it　made　me　think　of　another　temple　whose　courts　were
  equally　crowded　with　buyers　and　sellers；　and　of　a　〃whip　of　small
  cords〃　in　the　hand　of　One　who　claimed　both　the　temple　and　its
  courts　as　His　〃Father's　House。〃　　Not　with　less　righteous　wrath
  would　the　gentle　founder　of　Buddhism　purify　the　unsanctified　courts
  of　Asakusa。　　Hundreds　of　men；　women；　and　children　passed　to　and　fro
  through　the　gateway　in　incessant　streams；　and　so　they　are　passing
  through　every　daylight　hour　of　every　day　in　the　year；　thousands
  becoming　tens　of　thousands　on　the　great　matsuri　days；　when　the
  mikoshi；　or　sacred　car；　containing　certain　symbols　of　the　god；　is
  exhibited；　and　after　sacred　mimes　and　dances　have　been　performed；
  is　carried　in　a　magnificent；　antique　procession　to　the　shore　and
  back　again。　　Under　the　gateway　on　either　side　are　the　Ni…o；　or　two
  kings；　gigantic　figures　in　flowing　robes；　one　red　and　with　an　open
  mouth；　representing　the　Yo；　or　male　principle　of　Chinese
  philosophy；　the　other　green　and　with　the　mouth　firmly　closed；
  representing　the　In；　or　female　principle。　　They　are　hideous
  creatures；　with　protruding　eyes；　and　faces　and　figures　distorted
  and　corrupted　into　a　high　degree　of　exaggerated　and　convulsive
  action。　　These　figures　guard　the　gates　of　most　of　the　larger
  temples；　and　small　prints　of　them　are　pasted　over　the　doors　of
  houses　to　protect　them　against　burglars。　　Attached　to　the　grating
  in　front　were　a　number　of　straw　sandals；　hung　up　by　people　who　pray
  that　their　limbs　may　be　as　muscular　as　those　of　the　Ni…o。
  Passing　through　this　gate　we　were　in　the　temple　court　proper；　and
  in　front　of　the　temple　itself；　a　building　of　imposing　height　and
  size；　of　a　dull　red　colour；　with　a　grand　roof　of　heavy　iron　grey
  tiles；　with　a　sweeping　curve　which　gives　grace　as　well　as　grandeur。
  The　timbers　and　supports　are　solid　and　of　great　size；　but；　in
  common　with　all　Japanese　temples；　whether　Buddhist　or　Shinto；　the
  edifice　is　entirely　of　wood。　　A　broad　flight　of　narrow；　steep；
  brass…bound　steps　lead　up　to　the　porch；　which　is　formed　by　a　number
  of　circular　pillars　supporting　a　very　lofty　roof；　from　which　paper
  lanterns　ten　feet　long　are　hanging。　　A　gallery　runs　from　this　round
  the　temple；　under　cover　of　the　eaves。　　There　is　an　outer　temple；
  unmatted；　and　an　inner　one　behind　a　grating；　into　which　those　who
  choose　to　pay　for　the　privilege　of　praying　in　comparative　privacy；
  or　of　having　prayers　said　for　them　by　the　priests；　can　pass。
  In　the　outer　temple　the　noise；　confusion；　and　perpetual　motion；　are
  bewildering。　　Crowds　on　clattering　clogs　pass　in　and　out；　pigeons；
  of　which　hundreds　live　in　the　porch；　fly　over　your　head；　and　the
  whirring　of　their　wings　mingles　with　the　tinkling　of　bells；　the
  beating　of　drums　and　gongs；　the　high…pitched　drone　of　the　priests；
  the　low　murmur　of　prayers；　the　rippling　laughter　of　girls；　the
  harsh　voices　of　men；　and　the　general　buzz　of　a　multitude。　　There　is
  very　much　that　is　highly　grotesque　at　first　sight。　　Men　squat　on
  the　floor　selling　amulets；　rosaries；　printed　prayers；　incense
  sticks；　and　other　wares。　　Ex　votos　of　all　kinds　hang　on　the　wall
  and　on　the　great　round　pillars。　　Many　of　these　are　rude　Japanese
  pictures。　　The　subject　of　one　is　the　blowing…up　of　a　steamer　in　the
  Sumidagawa　with　the　loss　of　100　lives；　when　the　donor　was　saved　by
  the　grace　of　Kwan…non。　　Numbers　of　memorials　are　from　people　who
  offered　up　prayers　here；　and　have　been　restored　to　health　or
  wealth。　　Others　are　from　junk　men　whose　lives　have　been　in　peril。
  There　are　scores　of　men's　queues　and　a　few　dusty　braids　of　women's
  hair　offered　on　account　of　vows　or　prayers；　usually　for　sick
  relatives；　and　among　them　all；　on　the　left　hand；　are　a　large　mirror
  in　a　gaudily　gilt　frame　and　a　framed　picture　of　the　P。　M。　S。　China！
  Above　this　incongruous　collection　are　splendid　wood　carvings　and
  frescoes　of　angels；　among　which　the　pigeons　find　a　home　free　from
  molestation。
  Near　the　entrance　there　is　a　superb　incense…burner　in　the　most
  massive　style　of　the　older　bronzes；　with　a　mythical　beast　rampant
  upon　it；　and　in　high　relief　round　it　the　Japanese　signs　of　the
  zodiacthe　rat；　ox；　tiger；　rabbit；　dragon；　serpent；　horse；　goat；
  monkey；　cock；　dog；　and　hog。　　Clouds　of　incense　rise　continually
  from　the　perforations　round　the　edge；　and　a　black…toothed　woman　who
  keeps　it　burning　is　perpetually　receiving　small　coins　from　the
  worshippers；　who　then　pass　on　to　the　front　of　the　altar　to　pray。
  The　high　altar；　and　indeed　all　that　I　should　regard　as　properly　the
  temple；　are　protected　by　a　screen　of　coarsely…netted　iron　wire。
  This　holy　of　holies　is　full　of　shrines　and　gods；　gigantic
  candlesticks；　colossal　lotuses　of　gilded　silver；　offerings；　lamps；
  lacquer；　litany　books；　gongs；　drums；　bells；　and　all　the　mysterious
  symbols　of　a　faith　which　is　a　system　of　morals　and　metaphysics　to
  the　educated　and　initiated；　and　an　idolatrous　superstition　to　the
  masses。　　In　this　interior　the　light　was　dim；　the　lamps　burned　low；
  the　atmosphere　was　heavy　with　incense；　and　amidst　its　fumes　shaven
  priests　in　chasubles　and　stoles　moved　noiselessly　over　the　soft
  matting　round　the　high　altar　on　which　Kwan…non　is　enshrined；
  lighting　candles；　striking　bells；　and　murmuring　prayers。　　In　front
  of　the　screen　is　the　treasury；　a　wooden　chest　14　feet　by　10；　with　a
  deep　slit；　into　which　all　the　worshippers　cast　copper　coins　with　a
  ceaseless　clinking　sound。
  There；　too；　they　pray；　if　that　can　be　called　prayer　which
  frequently　consists　only　in　the　repetition　of　an　uncomprehended
  phrase　in　a　foreign　tongue；　bowing　the　head；　raising　the　hands　and
  rubbing　them；　murmuring　a　few　words；　telling　beads；　clapping　the
  hands；　bowing　again；　and　then　passing　out　or　on　to　another　shrine
  to　repeat　the　same　form。　　Merchants　in　silk　clothing；　soldiers　in
  shabby　French　uniforms；　farmers；　coolies　in　〃vile　raiment；〃
  mothers；　maidens；　swells　in　European　clothes；　even　the　samurai
  policemen；　bow　before　the　goddess　of　mercy。　　Most　of　the　prayers
  were　offered　rapidly；　a　mere　momentary　interlude　in　the　gurgle　of
  careless　talk；　and　without　a　pretence　of　reverence；　but　some　of　the
  petitioners　obviously　brought　real　woes　in　simple　〃faith。〃
  In　one　shrine　there　is　a　large　idol；　spotted　all　over　with　pellets
  of　paper；　and　hundreds　of　these　are　sticking　to　the　wire　netting
  which　protects　him。　　A　worshipper　writes　his　petition　on　paper；　or；
  better　still；　has　it　written　for　him　by　the　priest；　chews　it　to　a
  pulp；　and　spits　it　at　the　divinity。　　If